Clutch cable for sale !
Clutch cable for sale !
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Discussion

phillpot

Original Poster:

17,392 posts

200 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
quotequote all
Been tinkering over the weekend......



Slave cylinder bracket and push rod from an S Series



Master cylinder from a Land Rover, flex pipe from an air conditioner ! (didn't want to buy all new parts till sure it's gonna work). Once I'm definately sure of it I'll cut the arm off the clutch pedal and fill the hole.

Clutch operation quite noticeably lighter, should make driving in traffic far more comfortable.

Had a go at tidying up the throttle cable too...



From a Mk 1 Capri, got a nice little ball and socket and a sturdy adjusters instead of a mish-mash of adjusters and screw on cable nipples.



And a couple of new return springs to finish things off.
Made the arm on the linkage to carb. slightly longer to give a "gentler" throttle response.

Final job was to replace the battery that died on my test drive....



Bit bigger than original but it was "spare" so it was going to fit!
Moved heater over a bit and levelled up the base with some thick rubber. Spins over like its got no plugs in now wink


Edited by phillpot on Sunday 11th March 19:51

whitewolf

751 posts

183 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
quotequote all
Lookin good!!!

I mentioned to a few of my mates my clutch is heavy.. they said i was talkin crap u til they tried it... Hahaha

however pointed out when you have a real car compared to a hairdressers 206 and clio things will be different.



phillpot

Original Poster:

17,392 posts

200 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
quotequote all
Thanks,

Perhaps I'm just going soft, it'll be power steering next biggrin

aero340

272 posts

229 months

Monday 12th March 2012
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like the hydraulic clutch idea any issue connecting to the clutch fork end ???

whitewolf

751 posts

183 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
Rather glad mine never was a cable and always hydraulic

Adrian@

4,420 posts

299 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
aero340 said:
like the hydraulic clutch idea any issue connecting to the clutch fork end ???
Mike's car is a T5 conversion already so the S series assembly will already almost mate up.
Adrian@

Adrian@

4,420 posts

299 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
Re heavy clutches...I add a tag off a sump bolt to stop the cable from touching the exhaust and melting externally AND internally which then grips the cable and makes the clutch stiff.
Adrian@

phillpot

Original Poster:

17,392 posts

200 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
Prior to doing this I had checked the cable for condition and ensured as smooth a route as possible, I even cut the corner off the inner wing rather than that "bodge" of having the cable run through it.
I also tried drilling holes in the clutch pedal arm and moving the cable pivot pin up and down to alter the mechanical advantage.
All to no avail!

aero340 said:
any issue connecting to the clutch fork end ???
As Adrian has pointed out my car has a T5 gearbox conversion, there is an adaptor plate between g'box and bell housing so I imagine its still the Ford bell housing and release arm ?

The bits from an S series fitted straight on, there is a spacer between that bracket and the engine, a bolt goes through what was the clutch cable hole.
The pushrod (a TVR special) pushes into the hole where the cable hooked in, this isn't brilliant because the hole is sort of "keyhole" shaped but it's how TVR did it.
This is the release arm off my S3 modified to improve things a little, shall do something similar for the Taimar once I'm sure the hydraulics are staying.



RCK974X

2,521 posts

166 months

Monday 12th March 2012
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Funny that, my Vixen S3 has cable clutch and it's fine, not heavy at all. I don't think it's been adapted from original bracketry.

By comparison, the 280 Wedge (cable) clutch is horrid, both its design and heaviness. (For those that don't know TVR adapted the pedal so it pushes the OUTER SHEATH with a fixed inner. Sounds good, but the angles make it heavy.)