column swtches
Discussion
Hi all,
Has anyone come up with a solution to the crappy plastic clamp which seems always to be broken that secures the steering column switch plate to the column to stop it twisting,the clamp actually being part of the indicator switch molding,mine is bust and I'm looking at ways to re-use it or replace it. I have got another column switch plate off an SD1 but that is broken too and all the switches on it and the plate seem to be mirror image of mine which is an 88 350 I series 2, cheers in advance,john.
Has anyone come up with a solution to the crappy plastic clamp which seems always to be broken that secures the steering column switch plate to the column to stop it twisting,the clamp actually being part of the indicator switch molding,mine is bust and I'm looking at ways to re-use it or replace it. I have got another column switch plate off an SD1 but that is broken too and all the switches on it and the plate seem to be mirror image of mine which is an 88 350 I series 2, cheers in advance,john.
Howdy ziggarydoo,trouble is you won't get a jubilee to go all the way around coz the top half of the clip is part of the switch,was thinking something similar with added plastic and a strip of metal to reinforce it, one of those Poxy jobs that could take a weekend if u ain't Carefull, may look for a metal bracket and shape it to the clip then stick it on to clip and drill and screw it just before the switch on top.
Others must have come across this so what's the secret?
Others must have come across this so what's the secret?
A carefully curved piece of steel strip sort of works.
I agree a jubilee clip won't fit without a LOT of fiddling around (and probably failing)
I gave up with mine, the switches are nasty and crappy.
I was lucky I guess - I had a complete Dolomite column, switches, and cowl, and an almost matching steering wheel with right offset, from ex kit car stock.
With a bit of ingenuity and (benchtop) engineering, I swopped the TR7 shaft into it, and then used T2000/2500/Stag/Dolomite switches and the matching cowl, which is a lot nicer and the mounts don't break. It's got proper roller bearings too, not those cheap plastic ring things. Indicator/wiper are swopped over though, which is a short relearning process.
Mounted to body with a TV aerial clamp !!
You do need to trim the dash lower 'shelf' moulding a bit, as cowl is wider than TR7 one...
but it all works well.
I agree a jubilee clip won't fit without a LOT of fiddling around (and probably failing)
I gave up with mine, the switches are nasty and crappy.
I was lucky I guess - I had a complete Dolomite column, switches, and cowl, and an almost matching steering wheel with right offset, from ex kit car stock.
With a bit of ingenuity and (benchtop) engineering, I swopped the TR7 shaft into it, and then used T2000/2500/Stag/Dolomite switches and the matching cowl, which is a lot nicer and the mounts don't break. It's got proper roller bearings too, not those cheap plastic ring things. Indicator/wiper are swopped over though, which is a short relearning process.
Mounted to body with a TV aerial clamp !!
You do need to trim the dash lower 'shelf' moulding a bit, as cowl is wider than TR7 one...
but it all works well.
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 12th March 22:02
Early column is TR7 left hand drive.
You need fairly thick metal strip (say about 2 - 2.5mm) because it only has the one bolt to tighten and it needs to keep its shape and distribute the clamp force. I made mine in a vice (for the 90 degree bend) and then shaped it with big pliers.
That original plastic design was never ever robust enough, you can tell just by looking at it. It breaks exactly where you would expect.
You need fairly thick metal strip (say about 2 - 2.5mm) because it only has the one bolt to tighten and it needs to keep its shape and distribute the clamp force. I made mine in a vice (for the 90 degree bend) and then shaped it with big pliers.
That original plastic design was never ever robust enough, you can tell just by looking at it. It breaks exactly where you would expect.
The plastic is a sort of Bakelite rather than a modern Acetal, ABS or similar which would have more elasticity. It's notoriously hard to bond with any adhesive, plastic welding doesn't work and if you drill and tap it, it can shatter before your eyes. The design is obviously poor and years of over-tightening don't help.
Apart from that, it's lovely stuff
Apart from that, it's lovely stuff
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