Front chassis guards
Discussion
Just an interest thread, who would be interested in front chassis guards?
I designed them to deflect any material back under the car,
Ideally I'll make some rears too but haven't got that far in my car yet. I'll be visiting a laser cutting place tomorrow so could get a rough price what they will cost. made in stainless and have the hardware to mount them too
List below please
I designed them to deflect any material back under the car,
Ideally I'll make some rears too but haven't got that far in my car yet. I'll be visiting a laser cutting place tomorrow so could get a rough price what they will cost. made in stainless and have the hardware to mount them too
List below please
Edited by pmessling on Thursday 22 March 18:42
I quite like the idea of these from looking at your other thread Peter. What folding machinery do you have at your work, brake press?
I have a good lasercutting supplier at work who I deal with as well if that can help you. I also do sheetmetal CAD in Pro Engineer, and flat state drawings for cutting, so let me know if I can help you out at all?
I have a good lasercutting supplier at work who I deal with as well if that can help you. I also do sheetmetal CAD in Pro Engineer, and flat state drawings for cutting, so let me know if I can help you out at all?
They will be secured the same way as the little one covering the brake lines, i have loads of the cable tie craddles at home for my original smaller guards i made and nut and bolt, stainless and a cup washer. these are a better evolation of the orginal design, the drivers side has a cut out for the steering, so no worries with it being in the way.
I'll see if i can fish out a photo of my original ones. I was speaking to a chim owner who made some, and he used silkaflex to glue it to the body, my plan is a piece of rubber riveted to the plate to but up against the body, as i didn't want the stainless in direct contact with the body
Peter
I'll see if i can fish out a photo of my original ones. I was speaking to a chim owner who made some, and he used silkaflex to glue it to the body, my plan is a piece of rubber riveted to the plate to but up against the body, as i didn't want the stainless in direct contact with the body
Peter
Bigadz said:
I quite like the idea of these from looking at your other thread Peter. What folding machinery do you have at your work, brake press?
I have a good lasercutting supplier at work who I deal with as well if that can help you. I also do sheetmetal CAD in Pro Engineer, and flat state drawings for cutting, so let me know if I can help you out at all?
I don't have anything that fancy, although have been told i can order a folder, all i have is a vice mounted bender about 8 inches long and have to do it in stages. I have a good lasercutting supplier at work who I deal with as well if that can help you. I also do sheetmetal CAD in Pro Engineer, and flat state drawings for cutting, so let me know if I can help you out at all?
i plasma cut it to shape then filed how i wanted it, so getting them laser cut would be so much easier. As for getting them on CAD would be great as would your supplier. I need to see my laser cutter so will ask them, and then hope that yours will be better.
So your help would be great. I'll forward on some dimensions and photos for a CAD drawing.
Peter
Okay Peter, by all means send something through and we can go from there.
Really you want someone who can cut and fold as that would be easier,my laser cutter doesnt have a brake press but maybe yours does? Alternatively you could fold them as you have been but you obviously wont get such a clean fold radius that way. Most laser cutters will source material for you unless you have a direct supplier? Looking at what you have there I would suggest going for 1.2/1.5mm 304 with a 340GRIT polished finish. These come as standard in 2x1mtr/2.5x1.25mtr/3x1.5mtr pre polished sheet blanks.
When everyone has put their names down the number of flat patterns can be nested onto a sheet/s and we can determine how much material is needed, work out a cost per unit etc.
I did a similar project a few years ago creating folded heat sheilds for accord type R's. One thing I would say is you need to get deposits up front because once you have commited to purchasing material you want to make sure people dont pull out. That said I know the guys around here are not as tight as those who I had to deal with!
I used to be the designer for a stainless steel company, although my current job isnt in sheetmetal anymore.
Just some ideas there for you, dont want to intrude on your project, will help you where I can.
Really you want someone who can cut and fold as that would be easier,my laser cutter doesnt have a brake press but maybe yours does? Alternatively you could fold them as you have been but you obviously wont get such a clean fold radius that way. Most laser cutters will source material for you unless you have a direct supplier? Looking at what you have there I would suggest going for 1.2/1.5mm 304 with a 340GRIT polished finish. These come as standard in 2x1mtr/2.5x1.25mtr/3x1.5mtr pre polished sheet blanks.
When everyone has put their names down the number of flat patterns can be nested onto a sheet/s and we can determine how much material is needed, work out a cost per unit etc.
I did a similar project a few years ago creating folded heat sheilds for accord type R's. One thing I would say is you need to get deposits up front because once you have commited to purchasing material you want to make sure people dont pull out. That said I know the guys around here are not as tight as those who I had to deal with!
I used to be the designer for a stainless steel company, although my current job isnt in sheetmetal anymore.
Just some ideas there for you, dont want to intrude on your project, will help you where I can.
Bigadz said:
Okay Peter, by all means send something through and we can go from there.
Really you want someone who can cut and fold as that would be easier,my laser cutter doesnt have a brake press but maybe yours does? Alternatively you could fold them as you have been but you obviously wont get such a clean fold radius that way. Most laser cutters will source material for you unless you have a direct supplier? Looking at what you have there I would suggest going for 1.2/1.5mm 304 with a 340GRIT polished finish. These come as standard in 2x1mtr/2.5x1.25mtr/3x1.5mtr pre polished sheet blanks.
When everyone has put their names down the number of flat patterns can be nested onto a sheet/s and we can determine how much material is needed, work out a cost per unit etc.
I did a similar project a few years ago creating folded heat sheilds for accord type R's. One thing I would say is you need to get deposits up front because once you have commited to purchasing material you want to make sure people dont pull out. That said I know the guys around here are not as tight as those who I had to deal with!
I used to be the designer for a stainless steel company, although my current job isnt in sheetmetal anymore.
Just some ideas there for you, dont want to intrude on your project, will help you where I can.
Cheers for the advice, the laser cutters i've been using does have press, so would make life easier, the driver one is more complicated than the passenger as i had to weld part of it, but nothing that can't be done still. Plus will help me practice more if i do them, although depends on the costs if they can do it, will get a price for everyone, although i think the added protection offered is that matters. Really you want someone who can cut and fold as that would be easier,my laser cutter doesnt have a brake press but maybe yours does? Alternatively you could fold them as you have been but you obviously wont get such a clean fold radius that way. Most laser cutters will source material for you unless you have a direct supplier? Looking at what you have there I would suggest going for 1.2/1.5mm 304 with a 340GRIT polished finish. These come as standard in 2x1mtr/2.5x1.25mtr/3x1.5mtr pre polished sheet blanks.
When everyone has put their names down the number of flat patterns can be nested onto a sheet/s and we can determine how much material is needed, work out a cost per unit etc.
I did a similar project a few years ago creating folded heat sheilds for accord type R's. One thing I would say is you need to get deposits up front because once you have commited to purchasing material you want to make sure people dont pull out. That said I know the guys around here are not as tight as those who I had to deal with!
I used to be the designer for a stainless steel company, although my current job isnt in sheetmetal anymore.
Just some ideas there for you, dont want to intrude on your project, will help you where I can.
Yeah absolutely I think it's a great idea and people will pay a few quid to protect one of the weakest areas on the chassis. Are you TIG welding Peter?
Convenient if your cutter has a press, of course depending on how much they want to do it but. From a design point of view to keep weight and material costs down hopefully you will be able to get it out of 1.2mm. Return folds etc can give you a really rigid form even in the thinner stuff, the only issue is welding in that gauge as you probably know can be tricky with distortion.
I see you have added some rubber trim on the inside edges, if you are able to heavily radius these corners the trim could continuously follow around perhaps, this might not be possible though?
Convenient if your cutter has a press, of course depending on how much they want to do it but. From a design point of view to keep weight and material costs down hopefully you will be able to get it out of 1.2mm. Return folds etc can give you a really rigid form even in the thinner stuff, the only issue is welding in that gauge as you probably know can be tricky with distortion.
I see you have added some rubber trim on the inside edges, if you are able to heavily radius these corners the trim could continuously follow around perhaps, this might not be possible though?
Bigadz said:
Yeah absolutely I think it's a great idea and people will pay a few quid to protect one of the weakest areas on the chassis. Are you TIG welding Peter?
Convenient if your cutter has a press, of course depending on how much they want to do it but. From a design point of view to keep weight and material costs down hopefully you will be able to get it out of 1.2mm. Return folds etc can give you a really rigid form even in the thinner stuff, the only issue is welding in that gauge as you probably know can be tricky with distortion.
I see you have added some rubber trim on the inside edges, if you are able to heavily radius these corners the trim could continuously follow around perhaps, this might not be possible though?
Yeah TIG welding, The material of the ones i've made are indeed 1.2mm, and are plenty ridged, welding isn't too much of an issue, just means doing small bits at a time, to keep the heat down. Unfortunately the u channel trim i have doesn't really do corners very well but sure i can find something better to use that would follow a radius, i have radius on mine but they are more to get away from sharp edges. Convenient if your cutter has a press, of course depending on how much they want to do it but. From a design point of view to keep weight and material costs down hopefully you will be able to get it out of 1.2mm. Return folds etc can give you a really rigid form even in the thinner stuff, the only issue is welding in that gauge as you probably know can be tricky with distortion.
I see you have added some rubber trim on the inside edges, if you are able to heavily radius these corners the trim could continuously follow around perhaps, this might not be possible though?
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