Help please, car show photography

[midgeman]

As the title please guys I'm looking for some help/idea's.
I'm going to a car show at the weekend, some of you may also be going - Volksworld show at Sandown park, Esher.
All the good stuff is indoors and under lots of artificial light, it was crazy busy last year so I just walked around with the camera on auto, I know I shouldn't admit that but this year Id like to take a few better photographs and get the camera out of auto for a bit, has anyone any suggestions as to the best settings to try as I know I wont have hours stood by one car trying to get that one good shot. There's a few very rare and prototype cars going so well worth the extra effort I think.

Thanks,
Doug.

[trackdemon]

midgeman said:

As the title please guys I'm looking for some help/idea's.
I'm going to a car show at the weekend, some of you may also be going - Volksworld show at Sandown park, Esher.
All the good stuff is indoors and under lots of artificial light, it was crazy busy last year so I just walked around with the camera on auto, I know I shouldn't admit that but this year Id like to take a few better photographs and get the camera out of auto for a bit, has anyone any suggestions as to the best settings to try as I know I wont have hours stood by one car trying to get that one good shot. There's a few very rare and prototype cars going so well worth the extra effort I think.

Thanks,
Doug.

Indoors, not very bright, lots of different lights sources (and hence brightness, colour temp, direction), busy with people. Sound like a nightmare!!

Shoot RAW so you can tweak WB afterwards, unless you're lucky enough to find all the light sources are the same and can dial in the appropriate WB. Otherwise you'll need to keep an eye on shutter speed to make sure you're getting sharp shots, but as you'll have to be close to the cars (because of crowds) remember you're going to lose depth of field when shooting wide open. I'd suggest shooting tripod mounted around f8-f11 pushing ISO as far as you can - what camera are you using? High ISO + VR lense might work if you don't have a tripod.

[Simpo Two]

What he said, though if you're using wide-angle DOF isn't so critical.

If camera movement is an issue try to find something to brace the camera against, eg a handrail or column. If done with care you can hold multiple-second exposures, getting the 'blurry people' effect if desired.

[Adz The Rat]

I did Ultimate Dubs last weekend, similar show with all the cars indoors under bad lighting.

I used my 50mm F1.8 and 10-20mm and kept that at maximum aperture, ISO around 1400 and just adjusted the WB when I got home.

Most people will be taking the same pics so try to think a bit differently, the 50mm was great for this, trying to find angles other people didn't see.

[Simpo Two]

You could of course get a Sony Alpha 65. It will get itself out of the bag, go round the show on its own (it has little legs built in) taking perfect photos and video while you relax with some coffee. Then it processes the photos and uploads them to Facebook, edits the video and uploads it to You Tube. Finally it pays for your coffee and drives you home.

[MikeGTi]

Simpo Two said:

You could of course get a Sony Alpha 65. It will get itself out of the bag, go round the show on its own (it has little legs built in) taking perfect photos and video while you relax with some coffee. Then it processes the photos and uploads them to Facebook, edits the video and uploads it to You Tube. Finally it pays for your coffee and drives you home.

I need to get one of those!

[JDRoest]

midgeman said:

As the title please guys I'm looking for some help/idea's.
I'm going to a car show at the weekend, some of you may also be going - Volksworld show at Sandown park, Esher.
All the good stuff is indoors and under lots of artificial light, it was crazy busy last year so I just walked around with the camera on auto, I know I shouldn't admit that but this year Id like to take a few better photographs and get the camera out of auto for a bit, has anyone any suggestions as to the best settings to try as I know I wont have hours stood by one car trying to get that one good shot. There's a few very rare and prototype cars going so well worth the extra effort I think.

I'll do points because it's easier.

1. Shoot RAW so you can correct afterwards.

2. Use a tripod and get long exposures. Don't bother shooting at wide open as you will have a crappy depth of field (unless you are posing a detail shot). Set f8-f11 which seems to be a sweet spot for most lenses and gives an adequate depth of field. Tripods also make you look more serious.

3. Use a corded remote if you can, saves you getting any blur by pushing on the camera on the tripod.

4. Take an assistant - wife/girlfriend/boyfriend/friend/whoever floats your boat. Simply task them with standing in the way - eg between you and the vehicle you are shooting, but just out of frame. This stops people walking in front of the camera. More people with - easier it is to make a roadblock.

5. Don't bother shooting a vehicle with a barrier in front of it, unless you like black/white lines across your picture. Again, if the barrier is moveable the stand workers might be ok in moving it for you. We certainly move small barriers (and put them back afterwards) and no one says anything. However, the helpfulness of the stand staff is inverse to the value of the vehicle.

6. Ask stand owners if they could remove literature off their cars when you shoot them - you will be surprised how accommodating they will be if you explain that you just want a really good photograph of their car.

7. This is a cheeky one - find yourself a florescent bib that says MEDIA or PHOTOGRAPHER on it. People treat you with a huge amount of respect if you wear one. Anyone asks - you're freelance.

8. If someone is in the shot and you want them out of the way, tell them that you're a 'tog' and you "work for the BBC and could they move their fat ass out of the way, please". Haven't tried that one, but always wanted to

[Druid]

MikeGTi said:

Simpo Two said:

You could of course get a Sony Alpha 65. It will get itself out of the bag, go round the show on its own (it has little legs built in) taking perfect photos and video while you relax with some coffee. Then it processes the photos and uploads them to Facebook, edits the video and uploads it to You Tube. Finally it pays for your coffee and drives you home.

I need to get one of those!

One for me too please sir!

[midgeman]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, excellent stuff, sorry I didnt get on the comp last night but later I will try upload a couple of rough snaps from last year as examples, I have a feeling this could be difficult, every car is taped off in display areas with set walkways hence it gets very busy, doub't there will be room for a tripod.
Plenty of DSLR's walking around but only the magazine tog had a single pole last year on his camera

Im using a 60D probably with Tamron 18-270 though I had thought of the little 50 but probably be standing too close to the cars to get a decent picture.

Artistic/thinking outside the box is definatly something I'm aiming for, along with the usual pics for my self.

[Nick Grant]

It's not all inside though Here's a few from me over the years...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/grantgb/sets/72157626...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/grantgb/sets/72157615...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/grantgb/sets/72157603...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/grantgb/sets/72157603...

[JDRoest]

midgeman said:

Plenty of DSLR's walking around but only the magazine tog had a single pole last year on his camera

Im using a 60D probably with Tamron 18-270 though I had thought of the little 50 but probably be standing too close to the cars to get a decent picture.

Artistic/thinking outside the box is definatly something I'm aiming for, along with the usual pics for my self.

Wouldn't worry about the professionals to be honest. I watched a bunch wander round RaceRetro last year and barely any of them put any effort into taking a decent shot and I know a couple of professionals who do a lot of work and most of their stuff is average to say the least.

Be careful looking at Nick Grant's photographs though - you'll simply want to sell your camera and do something else. His shots are excellent, and I've spent hours trying to work out how he gets such good shots. Plus he manages to include people which is so difficult. It's not so much being able to copy what he does, but spotting the moment to copy his style (and the ability to point the camera at a stranger). It's all in the eye at the end of the day - I'm good at lighting but frighteningly awful of shooting anything that includes a human.

[Nick Grant]

Thanks James, cheque is in the post. I'm not sure any of my Volksworld Show shots are that spectacular though, compared to other shows it does seem to be a tricky place to shoot, mainly as it is so busy

[midgeman]

Fantastic pics Nick! Think I need to find this chap and follow/shaddow/stalk him all weekend
I was supposed to have my van there but no reg. docs back from dvla yet.
It is very busy which I found difficult last year. Your photos are great, the sort of thing I love and try to create myself not that I'm any good at it lol

[Rogue86]

Looking for interesting angles/details, and being creative to get rid of distractions are usually the keys to shooting at places like that. I wouldn't necessarily agree with shooting RAW, although that's more preference than anything (you can tweek colour balance on a JPEG, too); I'm certainly not saying there's a right/wrong way to do anything.

Most importantly, I'd enjoy the show. The worst part of photographing a show like that is usually walking round looking for the shots instead of relaxing and just enjoying the day!

[JDRoest]

Rogue86 said:

I wouldn't necessarily agree with shooting RAW, although that's more preference than anything (you can tweek colour balance on a JPEG, too); I'm certainly not saying there's a right/wrong way to do anything.

Good luck at NEC!

[Rogue86]

I've shot at the NEC a fair few times, and places with even worse lighting! RAW isn't some magical device though; essentially you're only able to alter the white balance to the other settings on the camera that probably won't be right either. You can still open JPEGs in camera-raw, so you can still adjust the temperature and tint sliders, you're just not able to change the overall white balance to as many options.

I'm not saying "don't shoot in RAW", the overall result is important, not the method you used; as long as it works for you then great. But IMO you should be looking to get the white balance of the subject right in-camera, and not hoping you can rescue it in PP.

[JDRoest]

Rogue86 said:

I've shot at the NEC a fair few times, and places with even worse lighting! RAW isn't some magical device though; essentially you're only able to alter the white balance to the other settings on the camera that probably won't be right either. You can still open JPEGs in camera-raw, so you can still adjust the temperature and tint sliders, you're just not able to change the overall white balance to as many options.

I'm not saying "don't shoot in RAW", the overall result is important, not the method you used; as long as it works for you then great. But IMO you should be looking to get the white balance of the subject right in-camera, and not hoping you can rescue it in PP.

You are up against so many different light sources in NEC though. Some sodium, some tangsten, and so forth. Every stand is different, and every hall is different. Even different ends of stands can have different lighting.

There is simply no way to set the camera right first time in these locations. So why not take one hassle out by using RAW and correct the colour afterwards. That leaves you far more time getting the shot right, than worrying about getting the white balance right (something that can easily be corrected afterwards).

You can colour correct a jpeg, but lets face it - it looks crap.

[midgeman]

2 days to go...

[Otispunkmeyer]

Again another vote for RAW. Indoor lighting is just going to go a bit funny re white balance so better to just ignore that on the day and sort it later on the computer.

Its a bh though, I just got back from taking photos at a swimming pool. It seemed quite well lit and to the eye the light was a sort of brilliant white.

However, unperceptable to the eye, the lights actually flicker through numerous different shades/temperatures. A quick burst of photos at the ceiling revealed light that was more orange in one shot and bluer in the next! So yeah, made sorting out the white balance difficult. Depending how busy the show is as well, you may end up just giving up on the more creative shots you want. Had that happen lots of times. Wanted to get good pictures of the house in Nottingham they are using in the new batman film. Got there and there was a IOP Physics/Science day going on, people everywhere, gazeebos, the works. Ruined any chance of taking a photo of the building in its settings. Shame because the sky was quite moody that day and would of been perfect for a dark, dramatic shot.