X308 XJ 4.0 2001 diff oil
Discussion
Shell Spirax EP 90 mineral oil is the factory fill. If you are just topping up any GL5 EP 90 gear oil will do.
Much better to change altogether. There's no drain plug - you have to suck the oil out of the filler hole using an oil extractor. Chances are your 4.0 will have sports suspension so you'll have to remove the rear anti roll bar for access to the filler plug.
I'd use a full synthetic - that'll provide much greater protection than any mineral oil and significnatly longer life. Redline oils one of the best you can source - have a look on the Opie Oil site. If you do go for Redline 75W 90 choose the version for the limited slip diff even though it's not a LSD in the X308. I filled mine with the standard Redline non LSD oil and found there was a hint of noise on tight cornering when hot. Subsituing the equivalent spec LSD oil cured it instantly.
If you have a noisy diff ignore the above and instead drain and fill with a synthetic 85W 140. That'll make quite a difference to noise levels and still provide more then adequate lubrication. Diff capicity is 1.9 litres from empty.
Apologies for spellin' - jusr recovering fron general anastectic
Much better to change altogether. There's no drain plug - you have to suck the oil out of the filler hole using an oil extractor. Chances are your 4.0 will have sports suspension so you'll have to remove the rear anti roll bar for access to the filler plug.
I'd use a full synthetic - that'll provide much greater protection than any mineral oil and significnatly longer life. Redline oils one of the best you can source - have a look on the Opie Oil site. If you do go for Redline 75W 90 choose the version for the limited slip diff even though it's not a LSD in the X308. I filled mine with the standard Redline non LSD oil and found there was a hint of noise on tight cornering when hot. Subsituing the equivalent spec LSD oil cured it instantly.
If you have a noisy diff ignore the above and instead drain and fill with a synthetic 85W 140. That'll make quite a difference to noise levels and still provide more then adequate lubrication. Diff capicity is 1.9 litres from empty.
Apologies for spellin' - jusr recovering fron general anastectic
Edited by Jaguar steve on Friday 16th March 18:26
Actually Steve, while you're around.................
Car has an annoying rattle from the back end, it sounds like the spare wheel bouncing in the boot well (but it isn't). We can't make the noise with the car stationery but it makes is at all speeds once moving, worse over bumps in the road etc.
My mechanic is pulling his hair out as he is adamant that all the suspension bushes are sound and the shocks look new (Bilstein?). He's had the bottom of the shock undone and he reckons there is no play in them but says it's a big job to get to the top of the shock. He's even checked the fuel tank isn't moving etc. (in fact, he even put his young lad in the boot for a ride down the road to see if it was the boot lid or if the noise was louder in the boot!!)
Could this be anything to do with the leaky diff or any other suggestions?
Car has an annoying rattle from the back end, it sounds like the spare wheel bouncing in the boot well (but it isn't). We can't make the noise with the car stationery but it makes is at all speeds once moving, worse over bumps in the road etc.
My mechanic is pulling his hair out as he is adamant that all the suspension bushes are sound and the shocks look new (Bilstein?). He's had the bottom of the shock undone and he reckons there is no play in them but says it's a big job to get to the top of the shock. He's even checked the fuel tank isn't moving etc. (in fact, he even put his young lad in the boot for a ride down the road to see if it was the boot lid or if the noise was louder in the boot!!)
Could this be anything to do with the leaky diff or any other suggestions?
Oil leak may well be be from air expansion vent on top of diff casing. This is a flimsy alumimium cap on a plastic flange. Easy enough to change and about a tenner.
Would suggest you do change the oil - worth it for longevity and peace of mind
Rear rattles are difficult to trace. Shock lower bushes - though they may seem fine on inspection even by an experienced mechanic - are usualy the pime suspects. They are cheap enough (18 ea) and can be changed in situ with a suitable extractor and I'd suggest you do so if only to rule them out.
Typical rear lower shock bush rattle is a dockle-dockle-dockle type noise from the rear on speed bumps and low speed potholes. You'll sometimes find a suspension movement on one side of the car produces the rattle from the other.
Another well known cause of rear rattles - a light tinkily noise - are slack handbrake shoe return springs in the rear drums. Apply a couple of notches - just enough to slightly tension all the mechanism and no more - to the handbrake and drive the same circumstances that you know cause the rattle and see if doing so stops it.
If you have sport suspension you'll have a small rear anti roll bar. The tie rod bushes may look fine on the outside but they can disintigrate internally and allow the tie rod to contact the lower suspension arm. They cost pennies and are easy to change so get some new ones on.
Obviously do all the usual things too.. empty out the boot, wiggle the exhausts to see if you can make them contact the bodywork and check for any road debris lodged anywhere between bushes and bodywork. Could even be worth taking the rear seat out to make sure nothing's rolling about underneath. Whilst you're crawling about under the car look for unusually bright wear spots eveywhere - a sure sign something's been in contact with somthing else - and any evidence of fretting or rust on the bushes.
That's the easy, free and cheap stuff to do first... anything more will most likley need some serious ramp and thinking time.
Would suggest you do change the oil - worth it for longevity and peace of mind
Rear rattles are difficult to trace. Shock lower bushes - though they may seem fine on inspection even by an experienced mechanic - are usualy the pime suspects. They are cheap enough (18 ea) and can be changed in situ with a suitable extractor and I'd suggest you do so if only to rule them out.
Typical rear lower shock bush rattle is a dockle-dockle-dockle type noise from the rear on speed bumps and low speed potholes. You'll sometimes find a suspension movement on one side of the car produces the rattle from the other.
Another well known cause of rear rattles - a light tinkily noise - are slack handbrake shoe return springs in the rear drums. Apply a couple of notches - just enough to slightly tension all the mechanism and no more - to the handbrake and drive the same circumstances that you know cause the rattle and see if doing so stops it.
If you have sport suspension you'll have a small rear anti roll bar. The tie rod bushes may look fine on the outside but they can disintigrate internally and allow the tie rod to contact the lower suspension arm. They cost pennies and are easy to change so get some new ones on.
Obviously do all the usual things too.. empty out the boot, wiggle the exhausts to see if you can make them contact the bodywork and check for any road debris lodged anywhere between bushes and bodywork. Could even be worth taking the rear seat out to make sure nothing's rolling about underneath. Whilst you're crawling about under the car look for unusually bright wear spots eveywhere - a sure sign something's been in contact with somthing else - and any evidence of fretting or rust on the bushes.
That's the easy, free and cheap stuff to do first... anything more will most likley need some serious ramp and thinking time.
Thanks Steve,very helpful.
Well i've picked it back up from my mechanic mate today still rattling! I've known him for over 20 years (was best man at his wedding) and this is the first time he's suggested I take a car elsewhere to diagnose a fault! I have a local Jag specialist so I'll call in there this week if I get chance.
He's checked all you have suggested and has basically said apart from stripping the whole rear suspension he's stumped! He's hoping the specialist will recognise the noise and go straight to the offending bush or whatever.
I'll keep you posted when I get to the bottom of it..............
Other than this though I'm loving the car though, feels very like my old 4.0 X300 but more so! I also used to have an X350 4.2 sport and although the engine isn't as good the build quality is far better IMO.
Well i've picked it back up from my mechanic mate today still rattling! I've known him for over 20 years (was best man at his wedding) and this is the first time he's suggested I take a car elsewhere to diagnose a fault! I have a local Jag specialist so I'll call in there this week if I get chance.
He's checked all you have suggested and has basically said apart from stripping the whole rear suspension he's stumped! He's hoping the specialist will recognise the noise and go straight to the offending bush or whatever.
I'll keep you posted when I get to the bottom of it..............
Other than this though I'm loving the car though, feels very like my old 4.0 X300 but more so! I also used to have an X350 4.2 sport and although the engine isn't as good the build quality is far better IMO.
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