Bodyshop advise wanted.
Discussion
Today has been a horrible day.
I scraped a bollard at low speed in the car park, the resulting damage:
Annoyingly this morning I woke up early to pay off my credit card and tore it up, even more annoying. I was planning on selling/ swapping for a VX220 too!
Anyway, Skoda stealer quoted me 2200 to fix. Which feels a bit expensive especially as I want to avoid going through insurance as I have a sky high excess.
Any tips for how I should go about getting this repaired. Some have suggested trying to source the parts myself.
Furthermore, any body-shop recommendations around Leeds would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
I scraped a bollard at low speed in the car park, the resulting damage:
Annoyingly this morning I woke up early to pay off my credit card and tore it up, even more annoying. I was planning on selling/ swapping for a VX220 too!
Anyway, Skoda stealer quoted me 2200 to fix. Which feels a bit expensive especially as I want to avoid going through insurance as I have a sky high excess.
Any tips for how I should go about getting this repaired. Some have suggested trying to source the parts myself.
Furthermore, any body-shop recommendations around Leeds would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
The sill should be a fairly easy repair but a new rear doorskin & repair to the inner shell, or maybe a complete door (I havent repaired one of these, so not sure if skins are available) maybe a new rear window regulator, repair to front door and blend whole side. Whilst thats top money for the repair, its about as expected from the main dealer. Find a second hand door in the same colour and take it to an independant bodyshop, you'll probably pay practically half the original estimate.
Hark said:
Did they tell you what parts that was quoted for?
Door skin and Sill?
If you could source fit and prep them you would save loads, but depends on your time and skill. How high is the excess?
If you don't like high bodywork costs a VX220 is another world entirely.
I was so shocked I didn't ask for a breakdown, but yes I think thats it.Door skin and Sill?
If you could source fit and prep them you would save loads, but depends on your time and skill. How high is the excess?
If you don't like high bodywork costs a VX220 is another world entirely.
I'm definitely up for parts sourcing and don't mind traveling for cheap parts (I have a fuel card)
I've just checked and the excess is 650, but I hate to think how much a 1k + claim would do to my premium for the next few years.
Rear door is scrap. Finding a secondhand one in the same colour as someone suggested above, would be incredibly hard, would it not? Front door also has a minor dent, which looks easily repairable.
Sill is easily repairable. That dent could be pulled out relatively easily, and at worst will require a light skim of filler. Inner door shut might require some work, but the dent looks to go upto the edge so might be ok.
To me, 2200 is way overpriced but I suppose that is only to be expected for a dealer. I've repaired much worse for 1250.
Look elsewhere OP.
Sill is easily repairable. That dent could be pulled out relatively easily, and at worst will require a light skim of filler. Inner door shut might require some work, but the dent looks to go upto the edge so might be ok.
To me, 2200 is way overpriced but I suppose that is only to be expected for a dealer. I've repaired much worse for 1250.
Look elsewhere OP.
NateWM said:
Rear door is scrap. Finding a secondhand one in the same colour as someone suggested above, would be incredibly hard, would it not? Front door also has a minor dent, which looks easily repairable.
Sill is easily repairable. That dent could be pulled out relatively easily, and at worst will require a light skim of filler. Inner door shut might require some work, but the dent looks to go upto the edge so might be ok.
To me, 2200 is way overpriced but I suppose that is only to be expected for a dealer. I've repaired much worse for 1250.
Look elsewhere OP.
Thanks, encouraging words!Sill is easily repairable. That dent could be pulled out relatively easily, and at worst will require a light skim of filler. Inner door shut might require some work, but the dent looks to go upto the edge so might be ok.
To me, 2200 is way overpriced but I suppose that is only to be expected for a dealer. I've repaired much worse for 1250.
Look elsewhere OP.
I think I'll look up some body-shop reviews and visit 2 or 3 places tomorrow for some quotes. I'd be (relatively) happy if I could have this repaired for 1250!)
Out of interest, If I can find the same door but in a different colour myself would this be economic or not?
If you can get it cheap enough, then yes go for it. It all depends on the price difference between a second hand mint item (Don't forget carriage too, if needed of course!) and a brand new item.
I hope you do get it sorted OP. I know how heart breaking it is to have this happen to your P&J.
I hope you do get it sorted OP. I know how heart breaking it is to have this happen to your P&J.
Just so that I can do my calculations...
I recently read that if you have an accident and it's your fault, then when the remidal work/actions are taken the insurance policy on which the claim was made expires and the rest of that years insurance costs are due. First time I read it, but sounds likely. Can someone confirm?
I recently read that if you have an accident and it's your fault, then when the remidal work/actions are taken the insurance policy on which the claim was made expires and the rest of that years insurance costs are due. First time I read it, but sounds likely. Can someone confirm?
If you make a claim, I'm sure the insurance company will want it's premium in full. If you have a 2nd accident under the same policy, then they should pay out.
If you cancel your insurance after making a claim, you won't get a refund for the remaining term. The insurance company will want the full premium.
If you cancel your insurance after making a claim, you won't get a refund for the remaining term. The insurance company will want the full premium.
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