Shimano Alfine
Discussion
I rode a bike with Shimano Alfine gears the other day. It was pretty good. It didn't really accelerate all that well, but it cruised along nicely.
Does anyone know if this geared hub would fit on any normal singlespeed bike (e.g. Charge Plug)?
I found this picture, but I still can't work it out.
Does anyone know if this geared hub would fit on any normal singlespeed bike (e.g. Charge Plug)?
I found this picture, but I still can't work it out.
Should fit fine - just check rear hub spacing, I think all the Alfines are designed around 135mm between dropouts (standard MTB spacing) but some singlespeeds and fixies have 120mm (standard track bike spacing).
You also need to run a cable for the shifter, and you won't have cable stops for it. No problem running a full-length outer though and cable-tie it to the frame.
You also need to run a cable for the shifter, and you won't have cable stops for it. No problem running a full-length outer though and cable-tie it to the frame.
Rode a bike today with a NuVinci hub. Very smooth and very different feeling. Weighed a ton at the back though. I think the new model is lighter by a pound or so but still too heavy I reckon.
http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/nuvinci-smooth-crui...
http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/nuvinci-smooth-crui...
Gooby said:
That would rock with a belt drive......
I really don't see the point in belt drives.How many people say "I wish my car had a cam belt instead of a chain"?
SkinnyBoy said:
Rode a bike today with a NuVinci hub. Very smooth and very different feeling. Weighed a ton at the back though. I think the new model is lighter by a pound or so but still too heavy I reckon.
http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/nuvinci-smooth-crui...
How was it? What is the gear range like on them? How well does it shift?http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/nuvinci-smooth-crui...
Anyone tried the BB mounted gearboxs?
Infinitely variable so the faster you went you just rotated the shifter to match your speed. No overlap just smooth power. If it wasn't so beefy I'd seriously consider it, but with the massive size and the external cable entry point as it is it's far to heavy for off road and road racing but for Dutch bike or cruiser it's perfect.
I've ridden a Zerode with an Alfine built into the frame and that makes more sense for DH as it keeps the weight right under your CoG and there's nothing out back to get snagged or bent. would seriously have one but I can't justify the cost at the mo!
I've ridden a Zerode with an Alfine built into the frame and that makes more sense for DH as it keeps the weight right under your CoG and there's nothing out back to get snagged or bent. would seriously have one but I can't justify the cost at the mo!
With belt drive:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/bespoked-...
Not sure if this is the same hub though.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/bespoked-...
Not sure if this is the same hub though.
I've had 5 or so alfine hubbed bikes. My both my tandem and my cargotrike are running alfine. It's really nice to use, and if I was speccing a winter hardtail, I'd be very tempted to spec it, as I can't imagine it's less efficient than a muddy rear mech/cassette. Fine for a town bike too, but I wouldn't spec it for any bike I was doing big miles on. It's not like it's hard keeping a drive train clean, and it just doesn't feel as nice as a freshly cleaned setup. I only specced it on my tandem because the limited range isn't an issue, and being able to change gear whilst stationary is a bonus with my stoker.
sjg said:
Should fit fine - just check rear hub spacing, I think all the Alfines are designed around 135mm between dropouts (standard MTB spacing) but some singlespeeds and fixies have 120mm (standard track bike spacing).
You also need to run a cable for the shifter, and you won't have cable stops for it. No problem running a full-length outer though and cable-tie it to the frame.
Good advice, cheersYou also need to run a cable for the shifter, and you won't have cable stops for it. No problem running a full-length outer though and cable-tie it to the frame.
h4muf said:
Ally M has one on here i think!
I broke mine 
Seemed the internals didn't enjoy the higher levels of torque caused by 29" wheels and my 32t chainring / 22t sprocket combo. I'd used mine for full-on MTBing for a couple of years before a plastic bearing race inside fell apart. It's a really small/cheap part but Shimano don't sell the components separately so it's moth-balled in my garage at the moment. Might rebuild it if I get my hands on the one bit I need, but not missing it TBH. I'm now running singlespeed permanently on my 29er and really enjoying the lower weight and all-round experience.
Shame really as it was great for winter/muddy MTBing, but (IMO) they still have their downsides/faults:
- strange feeling of disconnectedness (pedalling with normal gears feels much more direct)
- excessive weight
- gear changes need greater backing off of pressure on pedals compared to regular gears
EDIT: they fit on ANY bike with horizontal or vertical dropouts - they use slotted spacers that slot into the dropouts to stop the hub internals rotating with the wheel. Of course you'll need some way to tension the chain in the same way as singlespeeds.
Edited by a11y_m on Monday 26th March 11:55
a11y_m said:
s
EDIT: they fit on ANY bike with horizontal or vertical dropouts - they use slotted spacers that slot into the dropouts to stop the hub internals rotating with the wheel. Of course you'll need some way to tension the chain in the same way as singlespeeds.
Ah, OK. Chain tension is easy even if you don't have an eccentric dropout. You can add a sprung tensioner jockey-wheel because the chain is always aligned.EDIT: they fit on ANY bike with horizontal or vertical dropouts - they use slotted spacers that slot into the dropouts to stop the hub internals rotating with the wheel. Of course you'll need some way to tension the chain in the same way as singlespeeds.
Mr Gear said:
a11y_m said:
s
EDIT: they fit on ANY bike with horizontal or vertical dropouts - they use slotted spacers that slot into the dropouts to stop the hub internals rotating with the wheel. Of course you'll need some way to tension the chain in the same way as singlespeeds.
Ah, OK. Chain tension is easy even if you don't have an eccentric dropout. You can add a sprung tensioner jockey-wheel because the chain is always aligned.EDIT: they fit on ANY bike with horizontal or vertical dropouts - they use slotted spacers that slot into the dropouts to stop the hub internals rotating with the wheel. Of course you'll need some way to tension the chain in the same way as singlespeeds.
I run an Alfine on a steel hardtail and that's my default winter thrashing bike, taken a lot of abuse with no complaint - looks very good with a Spanktweet half link chain on it. The trigger shifter is great though works the wrong way for my brain, downside is that it only shifts one gear at a time, upside is that it's a better system than my Rohloff twist shift.
The range is good and I find that I only spin out on fast road sections and have to get off on only the very steep sections. Experience from matching chainrings and sprockets on the Rohloff to get useable gear ranges helped with the set up and it also taught me about getting a range that wasn't going to cause torque problems.
No doubt the Rohloff is better engineered, but the Alfine is cheaper and lighter and very useable. My derailleur bike only sees the light of day in the drier months when the Yorkshire grinding paste is at a minimum
The range is good and I find that I only spin out on fast road sections and have to get off on only the very steep sections. Experience from matching chainrings and sprockets on the Rohloff to get useable gear ranges helped with the set up and it also taught me about getting a range that wasn't going to cause torque problems.
No doubt the Rohloff is better engineered, but the Alfine is cheaper and lighter and very useable. My derailleur bike only sees the light of day in the drier months when the Yorkshire grinding paste is at a minimum
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