Moving air filters to bulkhead
Moving air filters to bulkhead
Author
Discussion

SwankBaton

Original Poster:

763 posts

201 months

Monday 26th March 2012
quotequote all
Can I use the existing air filter hoses , swapped over, to move the air filters from IC box to bulkhead ? Looking at them over the weekend , If I take the short offide hose (rear turbo to IC) I should be able to use this for the front turbo?
The hose from Front turbo to back should then be long enough for rear turbo to Bulkhead?

Whats required for the routing of the hoses, a couple of brackets?
Does anyone have a pic of the engine bay that shows where the hoses run?

Here is my 3R standard set up :


Cheers
Al

5paulmv

1,250 posts

200 months

Monday 26th March 2012
quotequote all
hi there all pipes will swap round you will end up with breather connector near front we blanbed this off and piped the catch tank breather to read of car past back of back tyre with a filter on it sure someone can post dimensions of reqired filter brackets you will need to make 5 quid in alloy plate think v8steve made a templete

Blu3R

2,380 posts

228 months

Monday 26th March 2012
quotequote all
Al, I'll be surprised if the rear filter hose is long enough to be used for the front filter to bulkhead. It has to pass over the fuel tank, I don't think it'll reach.
I believe the brackets attach to the bolts that hold the clam fasteners but I could be wrong.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Monday 26th March 2012
quotequote all
The rear filter hose is not long enough, i used to have my filters located at the bulkhead..you do get good airflow at this location but you really should leave this alone so that you get good airflow through the engine bay..this is a pic of the routing for both bulkhead and side pod..
In my opinion the one to the rear turbo i would leave in the Ic box, then with the front filter it is just a matter of shortening the existing hose..

In my opinion the induction noise in the side pod is better than at the bulkhead location, if you like to hear the induction noise then the side pod acts like a amplifier as it is linked to the sills which bring a lot of sound into the cabin.

You will need to get a filter for the oil breather with the stock one..but if your engine is worn it can build up a layer of oily residue in the engine bay,the pro alloy oil breather is much better and breathes into the wheel arch..i would get rid of the stock oil breather anyway..it will be full of flakes of rust that will go into the sump, mix with the oil and damage your engine.
The other option is to treat your stock breather..i bought some stuff that chemically removed all the rust from inside..and it does work.. but you will need to pressure washer it out aswell to get rid of all the big flakes of rust and break them down to get through the baffles..









If you decide to keep the stock breather then you will need a filter like this or to get a longer piece of silicone pipe to link back into the filter air hose..




This pic will show you the bracket that holds the filter at the bulkhead location, you simply bend some plate and fix it to the chassis, the plte bends again at the top and the hose clip that fastens the filter to the hose alos goes around the plate to hold the filter in position.












SwankBaton

Original Poster:

763 posts

201 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
Thanks guys,
I saw your filter mod Chris on your project thread, very interesting ! Behind the black plastic plate that you have mounted yours in - is that where the fuel pump etc can be found? Only ever taken the ally side plates off.
Cheers
Al

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
Yes the side pod is where the fuel pump is located..but i did the side pod modification..normally the side pods would not get airflow there are hoses connected to the side air scoop which bypass the side pod and direct air onto the starter motor...so without modifying the side pod and removing the factory scoop then air would be getting pulled in from the engine bay which is not good.
I thought i would give that as an option as i feel it is much more beneficial for airflow through engine bay and pulls in much cooler air, but the bulkhead location is easier as it just means fixing a bracket to the chassis.

What reasons are you wanting to do the relocation?...if it is for the acoustics then it is worth it, if it is for performance then the gain if any will not be noticeable.

SwankBaton

Original Poster:

763 posts

201 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
R0162 said:
What reasons are you wanting to do the relocation?...if it is for the acoustics then it is worth it,
100% acoustics. Thanks for the info.

simonx50

818 posts

189 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
Moved mine sounds the nuts!
You will need to fabricate some brackets to hold filters in position as its quite a tight fit under the clam.
I used all the existing ducting just had to extent the breather pipe

SwankBaton

Original Poster:

763 posts

201 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
simonx50 said:
Moved mine sounds the nuts!
You will need to fabricate some brackets to hold filters in position as its quite a tight fit under the clam.
I used all the existing ducting just had to extent the breather pipe
Breather pipe extended to where exactly? Original location or routed out the bay?
Cheers.

simonx50

818 posts

189 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
The passenger side ducting will be shorter as I won't go into the ic box anymore so the T piece will ne further forward towards the bulkhead so the small pipe won't quite reach about a foot too short.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Thursday 29th March 2012
quotequote all
swankBaton said:
Breather pipe extended to where exactly? Original location or routed out the bay?
Cheers.
Thats why i posted pics wink...second pic down on my first post shows the beather T into the filter hose....
The pics show all the different options...i have changed the filters several times and tried different things...so there are years between some of those pics.....

SwankBaton

Original Poster:

763 posts

201 months

Thursday 29th March 2012
quotequote all
R0162 said:
Thats why i posted pics wink...second pic down on my first post shows the beather T into the filter hose....
The pics show all the different options...i have changed the filters several times and tried different things...so there are years between some of those pics.....
Haha thanks Chris - I was taken aback with how clean your bay is lol.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Monday 2nd April 2012
quotequote all
Lol,...after saying that.today i moved the rear filter to the bulkhead because i wanted to fit a IC water spray system..i also found a better route to this drivers side bulkhead....i must admit i was enjoying the sound next to my ear driving home....i will post pics tomorrow..

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2012
quotequote all
Here is the pic of routing t the drivers side bulkhead.. make sure to tie it away frm the belts.


R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
Just an update...I modified the drivers side bulkhead filter slightly with a shield..in theory it should pull more fresh air from the front facing direction and less from the engine bay..putting the filter vertical seems to fit better with the clam and gives better routing for the hose..





Bill NobleUS206

79 posts

174 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
Lookin good, Chris! thumbup The location of your driver's side filter and shroud make sense and look great.

Just wondering if routing the duct near the engine and under the PS resevoir might heat the duct, but there isn't much room for an alternate route above the engine is there. Did you insulate the duct?

Your pictures reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask. What paint/coating works best on the valve covers. They shure look good colored like you and others have done.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
I just used standard heat resistent paint Bill...you are right about the ducting route getting heated i think wrapping with insulation would be a good idea...but then i'm not sure what performance gains would be made..every bit helps though smile