if its not one thing its another
Discussion
Got home from first drive out in 6 months and the drivers window is not going back up and is permantly in the down position. When I press the window switch i can hear is clicking at the motor but no movement. I have stripped the door card and other bit of as yoi can see in the picture I just need a step by step guide for removal of the motor. Also any ideas what they are off and how. available they are to buy cheers on advance lads. Dix
It's not all that hard....
1. prepare to get your hands dirty, and possibly some fibreglass splinters in your skin.
2. disconnect the wires to the motor (fiddling around in the door to find them)
3. take out the rear glass rail. Bolt is right on the bottom of the door. Mine was packed up with a stack of washers to get the right fit into top of door. No bolts at top (on mine at least). Fiddly but can be withdrawn out top of door.
4. Remove front rail. Bolt at bottom (same as rear) and three screws on top of door by mirror.
(You might be able to get away without removing this rail, not sure)
5. Slide the glass back until it comes of the TWO 'wheel' things on the end of the arms. withdraw the glass. Those two bolts at back hold a fixed rail. Don't need to remove that.
6. undo those 4 bolts/screws inset in the door, which hold the motor assembly. can JUST get the assembly out the top of the door, but have to flex the grp a little.
7. reassembly is the reverse of removal. DON'T YOU BLOODY HATE THAT PHRASE IN THE WORKSHOP MANUALS ??.
It's a long process to get everything lined up afterwards, including the motor itself. Don't tighten anything finally until it's all together and then adjust the rails at the bottom so glass doesn't fall out or jump the rails, and it runs smoothly. Probably take a few passes before it's all nice. Can start by putting bottom of rails back over probably rust marks where they were before. New grease and stainless nuts and bolts are probably a good idea....
Motor - mine had brushes totally worn out and main bearing shagged - I got an assembly from scrappers and had to cut and rebolt it to get it just right for wedge, but a LOT better !!
1. prepare to get your hands dirty, and possibly some fibreglass splinters in your skin.
2. disconnect the wires to the motor (fiddling around in the door to find them)
3. take out the rear glass rail. Bolt is right on the bottom of the door. Mine was packed up with a stack of washers to get the right fit into top of door. No bolts at top (on mine at least). Fiddly but can be withdrawn out top of door.
4. Remove front rail. Bolt at bottom (same as rear) and three screws on top of door by mirror.
(You might be able to get away without removing this rail, not sure)
5. Slide the glass back until it comes of the TWO 'wheel' things on the end of the arms. withdraw the glass. Those two bolts at back hold a fixed rail. Don't need to remove that.
6. undo those 4 bolts/screws inset in the door, which hold the motor assembly. can JUST get the assembly out the top of the door, but have to flex the grp a little.
7. reassembly is the reverse of removal. DON'T YOU BLOODY HATE THAT PHRASE IN THE WORKSHOP MANUALS ??.
It's a long process to get everything lined up afterwards, including the motor itself. Don't tighten anything finally until it's all together and then adjust the rails at the bottom so glass doesn't fall out or jump the rails, and it runs smoothly. Probably take a few passes before it's all nice. Can start by putting bottom of rails back over probably rust marks where they were before. New grease and stainless nuts and bolts are probably a good idea....
Motor - mine had brushes totally worn out and main bearing shagged - I got an assembly from scrappers and had to cut and rebolt it to get it just right for wedge, but a LOT better !!
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 2nd April 19:25
When i think my son who i had accosted under force (or rather bribed with haribo) had the button pressed down at the front and if i remember correctly thats lower aint it. Jeesus i hope i havent wasted over 2 hours whacking the motor whilst the switch is in the wrong position. Try again tomorrow and cheers Andy thats exactly what i was looking for just in case.
Stupid dix head on here (could the fuse have gone??)
Dix
Stupid dix head on here (could the fuse have gone??)
Dix
Ha ha thought this just happened with my car. Works great for ages then just stops. Switch held up and a swift bang on the door card and it starts working again. Have stripped it,greased it and every now again it still stops. Until it stops working altogether I will keep using this tried and trusted method.
Steve
Steve
RCK974X said:
What, you mean I spent all that time typing how to fix it PROPERLY and all you buggers do is to whack the motor with a BLOODY MOLE WRENCH !!!
SHAME - SHAME - SHAME on you ALL ! ! !
HaHa would not dream of hitting my car with a mole wrench. Might resort to a rubber mallet if window eventually stops responding to the gentle tapping of my hand on the door card. I would definitely hit the gearbox with a mole wrench if I knew it would stop the oil leak from the selector shaft ha haSHAME - SHAME - SHAME on you ALL ! ! !
If it ain't totally broke don't try and fix it
On a more serious note, the driver's door on my wedge looked like someone HAD whacked the motor assembly many times - the mounting holes were elongated and the whole moulded inset (where the 4 bolts fit) was cracked up pretty badly, and flexed when any force put on it (i.e. motor running). Could have been a prang I guess...
I ended up reglassing over, and using a 'spreader' plate (in ally) across all 4 bolts, which made the whole thing a lot firmer, and with a new motor winder assembly it works a whole lot better....
So beware all you motor whackers - you might be damaging the door moulding !!!
I ended up reglassing over, and using a 'spreader' plate (in ally) across all 4 bolts, which made the whole thing a lot firmer, and with a new motor winder assembly it works a whole lot better....
So beware all you motor whackers - you might be damaging the door moulding !!!
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