Seat refit tips please....
Seat refit tips please....
Author
Discussion

Nosh

Original Poster:

982 posts

197 months

Monday 2nd April 2012
quotequote all
Some advice and info please..

Although seats are dry fitted in, I need to get them bolted down...

1) How tight should the bolts be? (The 'b'ible states not too tight, or the fibreglass can be crushed..) Any advice on thios would be great...

2) What size is the nut? (I seem to have lost one! Arrggh!)

Thanks in advance
Nosh

Barreti

6,689 posts

267 months

Monday 2nd April 2012
quotequote all
You should have a big flat washer both inside for the seat runner to sit on and outside between the nut and the fibreglass.
If you are tightening the nut by hand I can't see how you could possibly overtighten it.

As for the nut size. Its a 13mm spanner if I recall correctly, which should make it an M10.
Just take one of the others when you go for the replacement to be on the safe side.

haircutmike

22,511 posts

234 months

Monday 2nd April 2012
quotequote all
Probably 1/2" AF.

Lunablack

3,494 posts

192 months

Monday 2nd April 2012
quotequote all
13 mm = M8smile

phillpot

17,517 posts

213 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2012
quotequote all


Use M8 "Nylok" self locking nuts, that way they don't have to be silly tight to stop them coming undone.


Nosh

Original Poster:

982 posts

197 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2012
quotequote all
Cheers for the advice - found the nut, but seemed to have used up some of the washers.

Washers are an easier thing to replace!!

Nosh

Nosh

Original Poster:

982 posts

197 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
Just a quickie update - found the lost nut, and I think it is 1/2.

From various posts I had read, I decided to install the seats using a method I had read about...

Bought some of this from B&Q (for circa £6)



Cut it into four lengths of 14 inches each (had spare after).

Drilled 2 10mm holes in each one, aligned so the bolts fit through from the bottom.

Seats refitted, the metal strips are offered up from under the car (fit very well in length and width) and bolted into place.

Much happier with this fitting now, as the idea of the seats being held on with penny washers and 4 bolts was a little worrying - securing the seats this way and 'spreading' the weight seems the right thing to do...

Nosh

fenderbender

339 posts

254 months

Sunday 1st July 2012
quotequote all
That spare metal strip should be an excellent tool for removing the brass cap from the swirl pot.

Simon says

19,460 posts

251 months

Sunday 1st July 2012
quotequote all
fenderbender said:
That spare metal strip should be an excellent tool for removing the brass cap from the swirl pot.
Not if you have one of these
The straps are a good idea thumbup would of thought this would of been sensible to have had this done at manufacture though frown

Nosh

Original Poster:

982 posts

197 months

Sunday 1st July 2012
quotequote all
fenderbender said:
That spare metal strip should be an excellent tool for removing the brass cap from the swirl pot.
It's in the boot,,,,

smile


fenderbender

339 posts

254 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
Nice. I was shocked to realise yesterday that my brass swirl pot plug has not been moved for 7 years. I use a vacuum coolant purge/fill device (Sealey VS0042) so never had the need.

I thought I'd have a go at getting it off.... it took a bolster chisel and a lead hammer to remove it, so having a decent bit of steel available to do the job sounds like a good idea!