Anyone upgraded their brake pads?
Discussion
I'll be putting DS2500 pads in as part of my rebuild, although never having had the car on the road I couldn't tell you the difference over standard pads!
Family and friends experience of EBC Greenstuff has been very disappointing. I was put onto DS2500 pads by a work collegue who used to do lots of track days in a tuned SEAT Leon.
We shall see!
Family and friends experience of EBC Greenstuff has been very disappointing. I was put onto DS2500 pads by a work collegue who used to do lots of track days in a tuned SEAT Leon.
We shall see!
I've done OK with Mintex 1144 - they seem maybe 30% more bite than standard.
Some people find they squeal but anti-squeal shims or a dab or copaslip on the back of the pads sorts that out.
The cheapest breaks upgrade is to use them hard once every time you drive - they will definitely improve.
Some people find they squeal but anti-squeal shims or a dab or copaslip on the back of the pads sorts that out.
The cheapest breaks upgrade is to use them hard once every time you drive - they will definitely improve.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
I've used Ferodo DS3000 and they are great, and will be using DS2500 on the road car when they need doing.
I've used DS2500 pads on my 400 for some years now, which includes occasional track days, and am very happy with them (front and rear). I've also used the DS3000 pads on the car, and agree with Leigh, they're great, but definitely not for road use - very noisy, and they chew rotors, I believe because they dont get hot enough. JMF894 said:
Looks like ds2500 for me then.
Does anyone know the best place for some grooved front discs whilst i'm at it?
Jimbo
Be prepared for a wallet lightening exercise! AFAIK, the standard rotors are no longer available. I've had a couple of sets made up over the years, which were around £300 + per pair. I'll look out the details of where I got the last set. Might be worth checking what the current thickness is. I've got the minimum spec. somewhere as well.Does anyone know the best place for some grooved front discs whilst i'm at it?
Jimbo
This is who I got to make my last set of rotors:
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
They used AP blanks, and machined to size, plus groves. Even about 8 years ago, with vat and a bolt kit (for attaching the rotors to the bells) it was £330. Standard thickness is 28mm, minimum is 26.8mm - this was per AP some years back. Should be engraved on the rotor somewhere, but may have rusted away. I would suggest changing the fluid to dot 5.1, although I use Motul RBF 600, which has a higher wet boiling point than that, and isn't massively hydroscopic like some race fluids, although I do change it every year. Is a bit pricey though. If you doing brake stuff, I'd also suggest changing the original rubber lines (front and back) for braided versions.
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
They used AP blanks, and machined to size, plus groves. Even about 8 years ago, with vat and a bolt kit (for attaching the rotors to the bells) it was £330. Standard thickness is 28mm, minimum is 26.8mm - this was per AP some years back. Should be engraved on the rotor somewhere, but may have rusted away. I would suggest changing the fluid to dot 5.1, although I use Motul RBF 600, which has a higher wet boiling point than that, and isn't massively hydroscopic like some race fluids, although I do change it every year. Is a bit pricey though. If you doing brake stuff, I'd also suggest changing the original rubber lines (front and back) for braided versions.
Edited by Number 7 on Sunday 8th April 10:43
JMF894 said:
Also what's the latest DOT brake fluid? 5?
Is it worth changing the fluid whilst i'm at it?
Jimbo
Higher DOT does not mean higher spec, check boiling point to give you an indication of how good it is, around 300C is where the good stuff will be.Is it worth changing the fluid whilst i'm at it?
Jimbo
http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/
Number 7 said:
This is who I got to make my last set of rotors:
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
They used AP blanks, and machined to size, plus groves. Even about 8 years ago, with vat and a bolt kit (for attaching the rotors to the bells) it was £330. Standard thickness is 28mm, minimum is 26.8mm - this was per AP some years back. Should be engraved on the rotor somewhere, but may have rusted away. I would suggest changing the fluid to dot 5.1, although I use Motul RBF 600, which has a higher wet boiling point than that, and isn't massively hydroscopic like some race fluids, although I do change it every year. Is a bit pricey though. If you doing brake stuff, I'd also suggest changing the original rubber lines (front and back) for braided versions.
Great info fellas but one question...................http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
They used AP blanks, and machined to size, plus groves. Even about 8 years ago, with vat and a bolt kit (for attaching the rotors to the bells) it was £330. Standard thickness is 28mm, minimum is 26.8mm - this was per AP some years back. Should be engraved on the rotor somewhere, but may have rusted away. I would suggest changing the fluid to dot 5.1, although I use Motul RBF 600, which has a higher wet boiling point than that, and isn't massively hydroscopic like some race fluids, although I do change it every year. Is a bit pricey though. If you doing brake stuff, I'd also suggest changing the original rubber lines (front and back) for braided versions.
Edited by Number 7 on Sunday 8th April 10:43
Do you use your cars purely for road use or do you take them on track days?
My wedge is strictly fast road use only.
Jimbo
My upgrade consisted of dot 5.1 brake fluid (NOT 5 as this cannot be used as a straight swap) and is ok with dot 4 and dot 3. Seems that modern dot 4 can be as good as or even better than 5.1
Mintex pads as a not too expensive upgrade, and as mentioned ok for fast road and the odd trackday.
Used EBC green stuff as well, but prefer mintex.
As a first step more as pads and good brake fluid is not required. When I got my wedge the standard brakes were not up to the job for normal use and upgraded the front with hi-spec 4-pot and 300 mm ventilated and grooved discs (not drilled as not required and no risk of crack discs) and braided hoses. Fits just inside the standard 15 inch wheels and happy with it for 10 years now.
Rob
Mintex pads as a not too expensive upgrade, and as mentioned ok for fast road and the odd trackday.
Used EBC green stuff as well, but prefer mintex.
As a first step more as pads and good brake fluid is not required. When I got my wedge the standard brakes were not up to the job for normal use and upgraded the front with hi-spec 4-pot and 300 mm ventilated and grooved discs (not drilled as not required and no risk of crack discs) and braided hoses. Fits just inside the standard 15 inch wheels and happy with it for 10 years now.
Rob
I really would not bother with grooved discs
Not on the SEAC but I tracked a 944 turbo extensively with standard vented rotors and calipers
Racing brake fluid to stop it boiling and fancy pads were the only thing required
Watching the Chim driver's face (passenger) was funny going up the hill for Druids at Brands Hatch
Not on the SEAC but I tracked a 944 turbo extensively with standard vented rotors and calipers
Racing brake fluid to stop it boiling and fancy pads were the only thing required
Watching the Chim driver's face (passenger) was funny going up the hill for Druids at Brands Hatch
Have changed my hoses for braided and went for 5.1 brake fluid. Never found any issues on road or track. Will be going for Mintex 1144 pads if they are available for the wedge as I have just fitted them on my other car and the performance is noticably different, better initial grab. If not then DS 2500
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