electrical woes
electrical woes
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estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
pppfffffffff...

...so, a long weekend around the corner, the car is finally back together after a rebuild and now this:
Yesterday I was booked in for a geo set-up. The car was dead. No lights nothing. Borrowed another battery and all is well. Had the usual flashing hazard fun as the alarm system wondered whats going on, but that eventually settled and the car runs. Good. So it seems its just that the battery isn't getting recharged (It was driving it fine Saturday evening).
Any ideas what may be the issue? 100A fuse?? The battery terminals also spark when connecting the battery again - it that normal when everything is actually turned off?

So, I left the battery disconnected over night as I have an appointment today with a trimmer to get the new roof glued. I drove to work this morning...all was fine. After 2.5 hrs, I left, reconnected said battery to deliver the car to the trimmers and the whole journey the bottom red light (middle of dash - '96 car with old style dash lights) was flashing. Any ideas on this? I tried arming and disarming the alarm (which cures the hazard light flashing business after reconnecting the battery) but although the hazards then settled down, this light kept on flashing.

Oil pressure, engine temp guages all work fine and the car drives normally too.

Please someone give me ideas - the wife is away over Easter and it'll be a shame not to enjoy the time alone on those B-roads smile

SteveGRF

259 posts

277 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
Sounds like the alternator has died, as you stated check the main 100 Amp fuse first (down by the starter motor) & the one near the battery if your car has one; even more basic that the pulley belt is not loose.

Iam known as the guy who always keeps a spare alternator in the boot wink ... I have had 2 of the buggers fail & leave me stranded over the many years of ownership frown

Else

795 posts

268 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
Get yourself a voltmeter and connect it across the battery beofre you start her up. Should read about 12 volts. then start it up and you should see the voltage increase to around 13.8 volts. if it doesn't then the alternator is not charging the battery.

Andy

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
results are all correct with the volt meter. Alternator is working. Battery is good etc...There is a major drain somewhere when the engine is off and I suspect its the alarm (as I cant seem to lock the car since the rebuild and the whole time the relays are playing with the door locks). Still, can't lock the car or locate the source of the drain. AAAAggggghhhh...damn bank holiday weekends!!

PRTVR

8,204 posts

251 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
estutjaweh said:
results are all correct with the volt meter. Alternator is working. Battery is good etc...There is a major drain somewhere when the engine is off and I suspect its the alarm (as I cant seem to lock the car since the rebuild and the whole time the relays are playing with the door locks). Still, can't lock the car or locate the source of the drain. AAAAggggghhhh...damn bank holiday weekends!!
Could it be the door switch? The small switch located on the sill, might be keeping your interior light on,also I think it connects into the locking/alarm system, it may be powering up relays and solenoids.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
quotequote all
estutjaweh said:
..the bottom red light (middle of dash - '96 car with old style dash lights) was flashing.
If its a constant flashing that sounds more like the alarm warning LED rather than the ignition (alt) light?

simply pull the spade terminal off the back of the alt to make sure..

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
part 2...

...the indicator stalk.
WTF! I turn the two light switches on via the dash buttons (early style) and the lights sometimes come on full beam straight away.
With the ignition off I can pull the stalk to 'main beam flash' to change the lights back to main beam.
If I push the stalk back to full beam - I get full beam as normal. This works correctly.
If I then bring the stalk back to normal position - nothing happens, the lights remain on full beam. If I bring the stalk to 'main beam flash position' and then back to normal position, the lights return to normal main beam.

With ignition on (pos.2), I can't return to normal beam once full beam has been selected. I must turn the main beam switch on the dash off and back on again to 'reset the system' as it were.

With ignition on, indicators work, ignition off - they don't.

Have tried a new stalk unit but this doesn't change anything.

...and the alarm still wont stop flashing my indicators at me whilst I drive (probably tries to beep the horn too but that annoying little bugger was disconnected years ago for being a little git), the annoying constant flashing red light decides to go off for a while if I drive hard, the alarm won't recognize my key fob at all so I can't lock the car.



paulathome

686 posts

248 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
Sounds like you have at least 2 problems. One, your alarm does not recognise your fob. Disconnect your battery for a few
Seconds, then reconnect smartly and cleanly and nip up clamp.
Second fault sounds like you have not refitted an earth somewhere on
The car. Missing earths can cause some really weired faults as electricery finds it's own way round a circuit.
Check earths to chassis under radiator and the one in drivers side wheel arch.
Chattering door relays might be dirty pin switches in the sills, which are only
A couple of quid each, or the rubber pad has fallen off the door.
Good luck.
Paul

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
quotequote all
Update:

bought recon alarm. It arrived today, was fitted in seconds and now my doors lock, the alarm works and all is fine there.

I don't know if the battery is still draining somewhere - I'll get hold of a multimeter and check this later. I was intending to fit a €20 shut-off switch for the battery anyway so I'll fit this and simply switch it off every night when in a locked garage. That'll do I think until I can get to the UK and have the electrics seen to by someone who knows what their doing. ...or is this a bad idea??

I still have no idea about the damn light/indicator switch. Its a nightmare. Any more ideas on what may be at fault? Anything I may have missed checking??

Thanks to all who have helped so far and especially to Carl Baker for a damn long conversation - real good service. Much appreciated!

TJC46

2,199 posts

236 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
quotequote all
paulathome said:
Sounds like you have at least 2 problems. One, your alarm does not recognise your fob. Disconnect your battery for a few
Seconds, then reconnect smartly and cleanly and nip up clamp.
Second fault sounds like you have not refitted an earth somewhere on
The car. Missing earths can cause some really weired faults as electricery finds it's own way round a circuit.
Check earths to chassis under radiator and the one in drivers side wheel arch.
Chattering door relays might be dirty pin switches in the sills, which are only
A couple of quid each, or the rubber pad has fallen off the door.
Good luck.
Paul
Not sure on the battery drain problem, but as above check all earthing points. One at the front, one on the chassis behind the drivers side wheel, one under the dash/centre console and from memory there is one at the rear behind the petrol tank. Also passenger side from the chassis to the gearbox. After my rebuild i fitted a few extra earth straps from the engine to chassis, and gearbox to chassis.....you can never have too many.

Marty V8

578 posts

216 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
quotequote all
Glad to hear that the alarm fixed the major problem.

Regarding the flash/high beam, my Griff had a problem whereby when the lights were on it kept switching to high beam. The problem turned out to be a worn switch unit, which coupled with the relatively heavy Leven metal arms, made the switch move and engage high beam.

A £5 unit for a new corsa unit Corsa I think it was from ebay sorted the problem out. The only thing I had to do was cut off the old arm and put the Leven version on. Even if iot doesnt sort the problem out, its a cheap way to improve what you have and eliminate it from a list of possible problems.


estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi All,

I'm still having issues with the indicator stalk thing as described last year. I gave up trying to fix it and ignored the issue for as long as possible which turned out to be easy as I hardly ever drive at night but alas I have just failed the MOT due to the 'non-returning main beam when engine is on' issue (yes, that was the only thing). Anyone got any further ideas?

I have tried three stalk units, swapped the relay and checked all fuses. All seems fine. The only thing I am a little unsure of is the size the fuses should be and the wiring for the dash buttons. I have noticed my blue main beam light comes on when dip beam is on and goes off or flashes when I switch to main beam...in addition I have found a wire thats not connected to anything. Has anyone got a photo of the 3 switch wiring (early Chimaera radio panel) and or can send me a copy of the wiring diagram. My Bible has a nice tea stain right across that particular page.

Thanks for any help. Without getting this sorted I will be car-less this season :-(

chris1972

3,597 posts

167 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
Battery drain, electrical quirks. this all sounds like an earthing issue. Have you checked ALL of your earthing points and ensured everything is earthed? If it was the 100A fuse, the battery light would be on.

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi, the battery light doesn't come on and the drain issue seems to have sorted itself. I'm guessing that was just due to a mixture of rarely using the car during the rebuild and the very cold weather at that time.

The only issue I now still have is this main beam/dip beam switch thing. I really need a scan of pages 270 and 271 from the bible as mine are no longer legible and a photo or diagram of the radio panel switch wiring as I am sure this one spare cable must go somewhere.

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
A colleague from the German forum has given me a link to an online wiring diagram but this fails to include the text as to what the large black areas where the wires suddenly just stop, actually are. Can someone just tell me what these 5 areas on page #270 of teh bibel are labelled as and what the the 6 areas on page #271 are labelled as.

Thank-you.

ClausB

43 posts

193 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
Hi Stewart,

just stumled upon this thread, I will scan these pages and send them to you - I wanted to mail you about the headlamp cowlings anyway smile

Regards

Claus

estutjaweh

Original Poster:

328 posts

185 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
Well, got it sorted and the German Tüv sticker is proudly in the bag!

Turned out it was the lower 3 buttons that were wired wrong. Well, I say wrong. The colour code matched that illustrated on this webpage...

http://www.rv8r.co.uk/Individual%20lights%20swtich...

...but alas, it IS a TVR so my coloured cables although identical to the illustration, needed to be plugged in differently.

Hey-ho, Thats that sorted for another 2 years at least.