"Louder" button on DB9
Discussion
Hi,
Having read quite few threads on Fuse 22 and various topics on switching thought I'd have a go myself on my DB9 Volante.
I didn't want to start stripping the car to run cables so decided to go for a remote wireless one.
Bought a single channel wireless remote from Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The whole job took about 30 mins and cost less than £50. Now I can switch in or out depending on mood/circumstance/hangover/etc.
Pictures of installation below if anyone's interested.
Connected +/- cables to terminal block on right & pair of flying leads to replace fuse to common and normally closed (n/c) connection. - thought it makes more sense to default to "quiet"
(note in-line fuse to replace the one removed from car)
Connect to Positive connection on top of fuse board and earth connection via fixing stud at the floor
Male spade terminals push into fuse holder.
All tucks away nicely, the remote works fine from driving seat. Overall a nice easy installation.
Having read quite few threads on Fuse 22 and various topics on switching thought I'd have a go myself on my DB9 Volante.
I didn't want to start stripping the car to run cables so decided to go for a remote wireless one.
Bought a single channel wireless remote from Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The whole job took about 30 mins and cost less than £50. Now I can switch in or out depending on mood/circumstance/hangover/etc.
Pictures of installation below if anyone's interested.
Connected +/- cables to terminal block on right & pair of flying leads to replace fuse to common and normally closed (n/c) connection. - thought it makes more sense to default to "quiet"
(note in-line fuse to replace the one removed from car)Connect to Positive connection on top of fuse board and earth connection via fixing stud at the floor
Male spade terminals push into fuse holder.
All tucks away nicely, the remote works fine from driving seat. Overall a nice easy installation.
v8woollie said:
Interesting. The Paralight (Fuse22.net) box doesn't have the two cables going to your red terminal and ground. It just has the two fuse leads and an earth cable.
Yes indeed. And if something does happen to that little brown unprotected cable that runs from the big fat red cable, that is probably where the fire will start.I'm sorry if that is an alarmist statement but this is not good practice.
ETA. I'm pretty sure that the Paralight system would not compromise this area
I suspect I'm bound to say I have no affiliation to Paralight blah blah blah
Edited by peterr96 on Thursday 5th April 15:11
peterr96 said:
Yes indeed. And if something does happen to that little brown unprotected cable that runs from the big fat red cable, that is probably where the fire will start.
I'm sorry if that is an alarmist statement but this is not good practice.
Conversely the Paralight box doesn't even have a fuse or re-use the 20 amp fuse taken from the fuse box. Many people seem to use the Paralight box though. I'm really starting to think that the only 'safe' way to have a switchable exhaust is to pay the factory the £360 + VAT to have a switch fitted, or get a free one fitted by BR if having a service or other work done.I'm sorry if that is an alarmist statement but this is not good practice.
897sma said:
The fuse 22 one takes its power from the same terminal as the one you are switching rather than it's own feed. I considered this but felt it was better to seperate the supply for the two circuits
Might it be worth putting a fuse in the brown wire too then? Are all the wires and connectors 20 amp rated or higher?yeti said:
That's going to be my route 
Well I don't need a service for a year so I am booked in at the AM works for the switch at the end of April. Seems like a lot of money though. Do BR do the switch at a cost and is it less than the works offering? I understand they are not far from the AM works site.v8woollie said:
Well I don't need a service for a year so I am booked in at the AM works for the switch at the end of April. Seems like a lot of money though. Do BR do the switch at a cost and is it less than the works offering? I understand they are not far from the AM works site.
Can't hurt to ask them - a racing cert they'll be cheaper than the factory!897sma said:
The fuse 22 one takes its power from the same terminal as the one you are switching rather than it's own feed. I considered this but felt it was better to seperate the supply for the two circuits
Assuming that fuse 21 (spare) is not fitted the best bet would seem to me to derive the power for your remote box from a spade terminal inserted into the supply side of Fuse 21 and stick another in-line fuse with it. I'd replace the 30amp one with a 5amp That way "your" 5amp fuse 21 protects the supply to the remote board.
Relocated fuse 22 protects the existing switching arrangement and wiring.
smiley engraved into it to make it loud 
peterr96 said:
Assuming that fuse 21 (spare) is not fitted the best bet would seem to me to derive the power for your remote box from a spade terminal inserted into the supply side of Fuse 21 and stick another in-line fuse with it. I'd replace the 30amp one with a 5amp
That way "your" 5amp fuse 21 protects the supply to the remote board.
Relocated fuse 22 protects the existing switching arrangement and wiring.
That was going to be my route on my old car, but Sport button does it for me now.That way "your" 5amp fuse 21 protects the supply to the remote board.
Relocated fuse 22 protects the existing switching arrangement and wiring.
mikey k said:
That was going to be my route on my old car, but Sport button does it for me now.
I like your thinking. ...... 
So I've got to convince Mrs R96 that buying a V12V means I don't need to put a switch in the car.......
I strongly suspect I might be in need of some replacement testicles shortly.
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