Removing Radiator
Discussion
Had mine re-cored a couple of months ago. Not too awkward. I removed the air inlet tube from the AFM, lower mesh grille and washer bottle prior to starting.
Much easier with the bonnet off - thank goodness for quick release hinges!
I took the fans off the radiator first, the fixings undid easily, but I'd soaked them in WD40 overnight before trying to undo them.
While I had the cooling system emptyish, I changed out all the jubilee clips and checked the thermostat operation too. Seemed like a good idea, my stat was OK but it might be as well to check!
Much easier with the bonnet off - thank goodness for quick release hinges!
I took the fans off the radiator first, the fixings undid easily, but I'd soaked them in WD40 overnight before trying to undo them.
While I had the cooling system emptyish, I changed out all the jubilee clips and checked the thermostat operation too. Seemed like a good idea, my stat was OK but it might be as well to check!
My experience with the recored rads is,
that they do not last that long.
And as usually quite some work is involved
I would go for a new rad.
Especially if you want to keep your car for longer.
Rads suffer a lot in our Griffs.
Most important and involving is to get all the air
out of the system afterwards.
The bible helps here very well.
that they do not last that long.
And as usually quite some work is involved
I would go for a new rad.
Especially if you want to keep your car for longer.
Rads suffer a lot in our Griffs.
Most important and involving is to get all the air
out of the system afterwards.
The bible helps here very well.
I am presuming the Grifters rad is a similar set up to the Chim's?
If so, when you remove the rad ensure you take a piece of string and mark on the EXACT distance between the two mounting holes located in the glass fibre body that the rad sits in. I had my rad recored and was pleased with the job, however it was accidently welded back together a few millimeters wider apart. The consequences of this are,
1. it was so much more difficult sliding it past the inner wings and
2. it only just located back in to the mounting holes.
If it had been 2mm further apart I would have had to take it back and have it all re-welded again!!
If going down the re-coreing route just emphasise to who ever does the work that there is no tollerence with this. Just a thought.
If so, when you remove the rad ensure you take a piece of string and mark on the EXACT distance between the two mounting holes located in the glass fibre body that the rad sits in. I had my rad recored and was pleased with the job, however it was accidently welded back together a few millimeters wider apart. The consequences of this are,
1. it was so much more difficult sliding it past the inner wings and
2. it only just located back in to the mounting holes.
If it had been 2mm further apart I would have had to take it back and have it all re-welded again!!
If going down the re-coreing route just emphasise to who ever does the work that there is no tollerence with this. Just a thought.
Not sure if the pre cat has the separate reservoir but that needs to be unbolted.
I also had to remove the Meta siren which is located on the inside of the nearside wing, including the bracket.
When removing the radiator you have to lift it up and slide the top up into the nose (where the air filter was). Then lift the bottom of the radiator up and remove it bottom first.
I also had to remove the Meta siren which is located on the inside of the nearside wing, including the bracket.
When removing the radiator you have to lift it up and slide the top up into the nose (where the air filter was). Then lift the bottom of the radiator up and remove it bottom first.
Still a PITA on pre cat or 500, bit more space on the pre cat. Ask if they can upgrade to the 4 core and also strengthen the end of the cores wher they enter the headers at either end as the vibration makes them leak. Did this on Andreas 500 and its lasted about 4 years daily use no probs. ABout £10 more than a standard refurb so IMO worth it.
FFG
FFG
Hi guys, thanks for all your advice. Radiator is all out with no major problems. It was a pain draining the coolant, had to have a couple of trays underneath and slit the old bottom hoses to get them off easily. I shall use stainless fixings when refitting recored rad, I will also make up some rubber washers to go under the mounting brackets on either side. On looking at the rad it is actually a 4 core type, though I can see no mention in the history records of it being replaced before?
So, over to a Radiator Specialist in Colchester tomorrow morning to drop it off. Hoping to get it back middle of next week then I can start the refit. In the meantime will clean everything up, fit the new Otter Switch I have, and start replacing the hoses with the nice ACT silicon ones I bought a while back, also have the stainless pipes as well to make a nice job.
Have some really good hi-spec coolant to use that was surplus at work. It is Volvo Penta Coolant, it is formulated for alloy radiators and engines with a very high rating. Got to give it a go as it is a freebie, have 10 litres of it, will probably do a 40% mix. Regards, Pete
So, over to a Radiator Specialist in Colchester tomorrow morning to drop it off. Hoping to get it back middle of next week then I can start the refit. In the meantime will clean everything up, fit the new Otter Switch I have, and start replacing the hoses with the nice ACT silicon ones I bought a while back, also have the stainless pipes as well to make a nice job.
Have some really good hi-spec coolant to use that was surplus at work. It is Volvo Penta Coolant, it is formulated for alloy radiators and engines with a very high rating. Got to give it a go as it is a freebie, have 10 litres of it, will probably do a 40% mix. Regards, Pete
Someone on here gave some good advice when refitting the rad. Dont tighten the bolts hard down on the rubber buffers leave them fairly slack to allow some movement. It is probably the body flexing that causes the rads to fail at the edge. So giving them a bit more movement should help things.
Hi all, picked up my recored rad today. It looked brand new so pleased with that and it is 4 cores like it was originally. Have got a minor problem though, as another member mentioned in this thread, the mounting centres of the flanges are about 3 to 4mm wider than before (I measured the old one)!! I did state to them it was critical, but there you go, I have it home now and want to fit it.
Have just carried out a trial fit tonight and will need to file the mounting holes out a bit to get a comfortable fit. Looks nice in situ though because I had made up at work a new pair of the aluminium fan mounts that bolt onto the rad. The high density foam spacer I made (sticky backed so they can stick onto the mounting brackets) look great also and will improve the flexibility. I am also going to use stainless fixings throughout. Job for tomorrow fit the rad and connect up the hose to it and new stainless pipes. Will take some pics to show. Regards, Pete
Have just carried out a trial fit tonight and will need to file the mounting holes out a bit to get a comfortable fit. Looks nice in situ though because I had made up at work a new pair of the aluminium fan mounts that bolt onto the rad. The high density foam spacer I made (sticky backed so they can stick onto the mounting brackets) look great also and will improve the flexibility. I am also going to use stainless fixings throughout. Job for tomorrow fit the rad and connect up the hose to it and new stainless pipes. Will take some pics to show. Regards, Pete
Hi guys, recored rad and remaining silicon hoses all fitted in last weekend. As mentioned in my previous entry had to slot the mounting bracket holes to accommodate the slightly wider core (about 3 to 4 mm). The foam pads and strips around the radiator worked a treat, the fixing bolts just snugging nicely into the locking washer whilst not compressing the foam too much, really please. Getting the air out of the system was fun! I started the engine and as soon as the pump was working a glug of coolant came out of the swirl tank (my stupid fault as I should have not put so much into the tank initially), thankfully I had anticipated this and placed an old towel around it. Once the engine warmed up and the thermostat opened the level dropped and eventually I could look into the open swirl tank top and see a nice flow going through. Really pleased with the new otter switch also, as before, the fans were coming on way too early and sometimes were on all the time, now they come on when the gauge indicates 90 and off again within a few minutes or so when the temperature has reduced, all this in the garage.
So now I have topped up the system (needed a good 1.5L), re cable tied the fan wires and cleaned all the hoses up. All looks great now, just ready for a run out, hopefully when some dry weather returns (we have a hose pipe ban but the last week or so has been rainy!!!). All the best Pete
So now I have topped up the system (needed a good 1.5L), re cable tied the fan wires and cleaned all the hoses up. All looks great now, just ready for a run out, hopefully when some dry weather returns (we have a hose pipe ban but the last week or so has been rainy!!!). All the best Pete
Loubaruch said:
Someone on here gave some good advice when refitting the rad. Dont tighten the bolts hard down on the rubber buffers leave them fairly slack to allow some movement. It is probably the body flexing that causes the rads to fail at the edge. So giving them a bit more movement should help things.
+1 good advice! 
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