Discussion
Jimshorts said:
If broken off flush then you could try drilling and collapsing it out. If there's anything you could grab with vice grips then possibly heat/plusgas(from Halfords) + perseverance and swearing!
That's for wheel bolts. If it's a stud it'll be attached to the hub from the back, so it'll need to be pushed through.http://forum.mazda6club.com/wheels-tires/211552-wh...
The internet suggests the job should be just a case of unbolting the brake caliper (tie it onto the suspension with string or cable ties to stop it from stretching the brake flexi hose), removing the brake disc, and then tapping on the end of the broken stud with a hammer until it falls out.
Here's some more instructions.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4508415_replace-wheel-stud...
Edited by davepoth on Sunday 8th April 11:40
It's not broken off flush - there is still maybe 2-3 cm sticking out from the hub. Looking at some online videos from other cars, it looks as though it needs pushing out through the back (or rather beating back with a hammer), but to create space, you need to take the caliper off and remove the disc 
Aside from the fact that I don't feel comfortable with the idea of trying to remove brakes from a car (for the first time at least) whilst unsupervised by someone who knows what they are doing, I don't think hammering at a car part would be all that safe unless it was safely lifted on axle stands (which I don't have either).
Bugger.
Any guess how much time a garge would charge for the job? I'm guessing an hour should be enough to remove the caliper/ disc, and refit afterwards?

Aside from the fact that I don't feel comfortable with the idea of trying to remove brakes from a car (for the first time at least) whilst unsupervised by someone who knows what they are doing, I don't think hammering at a car part would be all that safe unless it was safely lifted on axle stands (which I don't have either).
Bugger.
Any guess how much time a garge would charge for the job? I'm guessing an hour should be enough to remove the caliper/ disc, and refit afterwards?
Oh, just seen the extra replies - thanks for the info and links guys 
It all sounds so simple when you read it like that, but I'm not sure I have the nerve to try and remove brakes on my own (yet). I know it's just a collection of bolts, but...
Additionally, hammering the stud while the car is on a jack probably not to clever either.
Would I be right in guessing that a garage could do the job in an hour?
It all sounds so simple when you read it like that, but I'm not sure I have the nerve to try and remove brakes on my own (yet). I know it's just a collection of bolts, but...
Additionally, hammering the stud while the car is on a jack probably not to clever either.
Would I be right in guessing that a garage could do the job in an hour?
Codswallop said:
Oh, just seen the extra replies - thanks for the info and links guys 
It all sounds so simple when you read it like that, but I'm not sure I have the nerve to try and remove brakes on my own (yet). I know it's just a collection of bolts, but...
Additionally, hammering the stud while the car is on a jack probably not to clever either.
Would I be right in guessing that a garage could do the job in an hour?
Likely in under half an hour if nothing's stuck. If you are going to drive it somewhere make sure to check the wheel nuts on that wheel are tight, since there's more chance for them to be vibrated off with one nut missing.It all sounds so simple when you read it like that, but I'm not sure I have the nerve to try and remove brakes on my own (yet). I know it's just a collection of bolts, but...
Additionally, hammering the stud while the car is on a jack probably not to clever either.
Would I be right in guessing that a garage could do the job in an hour?
davepoth said:
Likely in under half an hour if nothing's stuck. If you are going to drive it somewhere make sure to check the wheel nuts on that wheel are tight, since there's more chance for them to be vibrated off with one nut missing.
Good to know thanks 
I really must get a garage at my next place though. And basic tools. And a Haynes manual

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