e type cylinder head
Discussion
yes, they can be real buggers to get off sometimes + of course the sheer weight of the head doesn't help. my normal process is as follows:
1. thoughly soak head studs with easing fluid i.e. plusgas. leave this for a good 2-3 days.
2. make sure engine is very secure, not just hanging from and engine crane, then use a sensible sized peice of wood with a rubber mallet and 'thwack' all around the head in an upward motion. keep doing this and eventually the head will free.
3. once free, the head often need 'helping' to rise above block studs. keep feeding studs with gasplus and use wooden handle and/or mallet to continue lifting.
4. before lifting be sure to be next to your workbench to place head. when lifting it's sometimes best to have a buddy with you for the last couple of inches to ensure an even lift.
good luck and don't drop the head on your toes
1. thoughly soak head studs with easing fluid i.e. plusgas. leave this for a good 2-3 days.
2. make sure engine is very secure, not just hanging from and engine crane, then use a sensible sized peice of wood with a rubber mallet and 'thwack' all around the head in an upward motion. keep doing this and eventually the head will free.
3. once free, the head often need 'helping' to rise above block studs. keep feeding studs with gasplus and use wooden handle and/or mallet to continue lifting.
4. before lifting be sure to be next to your workbench to place head. when lifting it's sometimes best to have a buddy with you for the last couple of inches to ensure an even lift.
good luck and don't drop the head on your toes
one other product that can work very well for this bugger-of-a-job is...wait for it...full fat coca-cola 
i used this about 10years ago out of sheer frustration on a mkII head that wouldn't budge no matter how much penetrating oil, gentle heating, hard hitting i used. i ran out of penetrating oil/wd40/gasplus/parafin and the nearest suitable non-agressive 'penetrating' fluid to hand was a 1ltr bottle.
two days soaking with the top secret engineering recipe and off she came; clean as a whistle. if using this method be sure to clean everything well as coca-cola leaves a sticky film everywhere.
ps with a stiff brush it's also jolly good on some metals and for de-greasing engines, gearboxes, suspension parts et al +++ happens to be much more environmentally friendly than petroleum based products.
i used this about 10years ago out of sheer frustration on a mkII head that wouldn't budge no matter how much penetrating oil, gentle heating, hard hitting i used. i ran out of penetrating oil/wd40/gasplus/parafin and the nearest suitable non-agressive 'penetrating' fluid to hand was a 1ltr bottle.
two days soaking with the top secret engineering recipe and off she came; clean as a whistle. if using this method be sure to clean everything well as coca-cola leaves a sticky film everywhere.
ps with a stiff brush it's also jolly good on some metals and for de-greasing engines, gearboxes, suspension parts et al +++ happens to be much more environmentally friendly than petroleum based products.
.If the engine is still in the car and you have some sort of hoist then put some straps round the camshafts near the ends and slowly lift, at the same time whack the head with a wooden mallet or use a lump bit of wood with a club hammer to loosen it. Alternatively use some suitable sized wood placed into four of the ports, two each side, and with a friend shake it like f
k to try and loosen it that way.
k to try and loosen it that way.Edited by jagracer on Wednesday 11th April 10:12
Johnspex said:
Off topic- does anybody think the Coke idea will work on my bike saddle post which I've been told has become "cold welded" to the frame?
John, you could try but if cold welded it may need heating and then a sharp 'twist' to release. I use MAP gas for this as has higher temperature. Or, if saddle post mullered, cut off exposed part of post then drill out cold welded part/reomve inner post length. Clean up inner part of frame + smear with grease/copper slip. Fit new saddle post.Had a similar problem a few years ago trying to get the head off a V12 jag engine. One came off easy t'other wouldn't shift no matter what I tried. Nuts were all undone, but it wouldn't budge. Tried all sorts in the end spoke to a Jag specialist and he said to make a well around the sticking studs using plasticine as a dam and fill it up with either Wonder Wheels wheel cleaner or full fat coke. Didn't have any coke but did have the WW so gave it a go. Had a series of straps putting tension on the head from the roof, left it for a couple of days regularly topping up the WW fluid before and after work and in the end went into the garage after work one evening and there was the head nicely separated from the block. Was quite surprised how much tension I'd put it under, could have got my finger in the gap.
Upshot of course is the WW worked a treat. Never tried coke but heard the tip many times so guess it must work. Have you ever put a normal penny or two pence coin in a glass of coke? You'll be shocked and stunned. Go on, give it a go and see what happens to your coins by the morning.
Upshot of course is the WW worked a treat. Never tried coke but heard the tip many times so guess it must work. Have you ever put a normal penny or two pence coin in a glass of coke? You'll be shocked and stunned. Go on, give it a go and see what happens to your coins by the morning.
+1 for Wonder Wheels, though do be careful as it's reasonably acidic. You don't want this running down head stud bores, out of bottom, onto block and into the cylinder bores 
if using an acid based fluid be sure to completely waterproof cylinder block face and block stud bores beforehand. thick plastic membrane + metallic tape req'd.
if using an acid based fluid be sure to completely waterproof cylinder block face and block stud bores beforehand. thick plastic membrane + metallic tape req'd.Has your E got it's original engine ? Which if my Buggered memory serves me correctly will be prefixed 7 R . The earlier XK engine was prefixed 1 E . If it is the original unit , the engine no will be stamped on the left upper side , just in front of the gearbox. Pre mid 1968 engines had the no stamped on a ridged area just above the oil filter housing on the right side ( Carb ) of the block.
If original your car will have what is known as " The Long Stud Block " . For some peculiar reason Jaguar changed to this far inferior idea, which gives a weaker engine block . Basically the long studs on the S2 E type Engine go through down into the water jacket, where they obviously can and do corrode. When you try to remove them they shear off .
I also have heard that Coke will free seized components so well worth a try !
If original your car will have what is known as " The Long Stud Block " . For some peculiar reason Jaguar changed to this far inferior idea, which gives a weaker engine block . Basically the long studs on the S2 E type Engine go through down into the water jacket, where they obviously can and do corrode. When you try to remove them they shear off .
I also have heard that Coke will free seized components so well worth a try !
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