My new 1979 MGBGT
Discussion
Church of Noise said:
Looks tidy!
Any projects planned?
It's already got EFI, It's VERY tidy runs smooooth as can be. I'm VERY pleased for the money I paid. I think the OD needs topping up. But apart from that. She's a minter.Any projects planned?
No evil plans yet.... but there are evil plans for a Series 1 XJ....
as you're used to 3,000 miles oil changes this 6 + 12k miles will seem very laid back
rather than just topping up the g/box oil to get the O/D working better (changes should be almost instant, don't fully lift off the acelorator when engaging/disengaging) fully drain g/box oil and clean O/D filter
whilst your at it, as it's so cheap and easy I'd suggest you also change the r/axle oil
personally I always do a full 36,000 mile service plus other bits on a classic as sooon as possible after getting it, you can stage the work around enjoying the car but only miss out bits you're sure have been done recently and properly
end of sermon - get the Driver's Handbook (Ref: 0053) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... and keep the service work up and drive the car regularly
you'll need a few imperial tools and grease gun, do the front suspension regularly
rather than just topping up the g/box oil to get the O/D working better (changes should be almost instant, don't fully lift off the acelorator when engaging/disengaging) fully drain g/box oil and clean O/D filter
whilst your at it, as it's so cheap and easy I'd suggest you also change the r/axle oil
personally I always do a full 36,000 mile service plus other bits on a classic as sooon as possible after getting it, you can stage the work around enjoying the car but only miss out bits you're sure have been done recently and properly
end of sermon - get the Driver's Handbook (Ref: 0053) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... and keep the service work up and drive the car regularly
you'll need a few imperial tools and grease gun, do the front suspension regularly
This black pasty stuff from Halfords is great for frehening up the rubber bumpers.
The other thing to check is the condition of the rubber hoses, both the coolant ones and the fuel ones to the carbs, these need to be newer type rubber ones suitable for unleaded fuel.
Plenty of spares on Ebay.
And maybe lower it by an inch.
The other thing to check is the condition of the rubber hoses, both the coolant ones and the fuel ones to the carbs, these need to be newer type rubber ones suitable for unleaded fuel.
Plenty of spares on Ebay.
And maybe lower it by an inch.
na said:
as you're used to 3,000 miles oil changes this 6 + 12k miles will seem very laid back
rather than just topping up the g/box oil to get the O/D working better (changes should be almost instant, don't fully lift off the acelorator when engaging/disengaging) fully drain g/box oil and clean O/D filter
whilst your at it, as it's so cheap and easy I'd suggest you also change the r/axle oil
personally I always do a full 36,000 mile service plus other bits on a classic as sooon as possible after getting it, you can stage the work around enjoying the car but only miss out bits you're sure have been done recently and properly
end of sermon - get the Driver's Handbook (Ref: 0053) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... and keep the service work up and drive the car regularly
you'll need a few imperial tools and grease gun, do the front suspension regularly
Thanks for that. I've got a FAT stack of reciptes and mots dating back to it's first.rather than just topping up the g/box oil to get the O/D working better (changes should be almost instant, don't fully lift off the acelorator when engaging/disengaging) fully drain g/box oil and clean O/D filter
whilst your at it, as it's so cheap and easy I'd suggest you also change the r/axle oil
personally I always do a full 36,000 mile service plus other bits on a classic as sooon as possible after getting it, you can stage the work around enjoying the car but only miss out bits you're sure have been done recently and properly
end of sermon - get the Driver's Handbook (Ref: 0053) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... and keep the service work up and drive the car regularly
you'll need a few imperial tools and grease gun, do the front suspension regularly
I've got to do a coolant flush as it's been stood and running a bit warm.
It had its fuel lines all replaced in '10 and front dampers last year (as well as it's annual service)
I had to replace the fuel hose from the filter to the carb as it split on the way home last night, probably due to lack of use (something I intend on remedying!)
Switch said:
I had to replace the fuel hose from the filter to the carb as it split on the way home last night, probably due to lack of use (something I intend on remedying!)
Change all of the fuel hoses, if has stood. In fact, all of the rubber hoses. I had 3 months not being able to change them quick enough when I bought my car (which had stood for years). It's a days work and you could easily waste that time on the side of the road/limping home/head under the bonnet because of brake/rad/fuel hoses.
Switch said:
I've got to do a coolant flush as it's been stood and running a bit warm.
do it fully and thoroughly this time than its just straight coolant changes as required for the forseeable futureclean an flush out the engine block too this is usually missed, I done mine on a recon engine that I'd only done 2,000 miles since the recon and had to use wire to get the crud out of the engine block drain hole and then next year I had to (flush) and refill the coolant again (don't ask, Sod's Law always applies with me) and again I thought I do it properly and take the engine blocjk drain plug out and was very surprised to find there was still crud coming out, not much but it just goes to show
also take the opportunity to remove the heater matrix and clean that and check all the seals as if it's done properly the matrix can get very hot
note: modern rubber hoses can be rubbish I've found - I'd strongly suggest you put silicone coolant hoses on
Switch said:
It had its fuel lines all replaced in '10
again note modern rubber hoses - I've had loads of trouble with them for the passed 5 years, different batches, poor quality rubber rather than the modern fuelfor fuel filter to front carb last time I used Good Year 6 mm from Halfords fitted the carb pipe better than the 1/4" rubber too
I did think about replacing the carb to carb pipe too but decide it looked fine, mistake rubber worked it's way off the rear carb only this Thursday and the petrol pooled that much it lifted some paint and washed off loads of Waxoyl - note these rubber pipes were less than 2 years old but some I've had have only lasted a matter of months, from different suppliers
Switch said:
(as well as it's annual service)
have a good look at the Driver's Handbook there a lot more to an annual service than most, even long term, owners realiseif the car's not been use fully for a while or just standing then full and proper servicing, maintenance and repair along with regular use should iron out the wrinkles and make the car very reliable and a pleasure to drive
if you want preventative notes just PM me but I'm sure you'll want learn and pay for your mistakes just like I did mant times over even if it's cheaper for you to learn by my mistakes
Breadvan72 said:
Could someone please move that old blue car so I can get a proper look at the van. Thanks.
No, sod off 
PlayersNo6 said:
Very nice - looks great in Pageant blue. Is the webasto roof watertight?
Tight as a nuns.... Less said the better. A little bit of fraying at one corner that could do with some glue, but watertight none the less.
And it's a lovely blue!
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