Fuel System Resto.....
Discussion
Big thanks to Andy Tank for advise, my wedge was cutting out as I was changing gear, and thanks to Andy he suggested I look at the Swirl Pot and Fuel Filter, both were badly corroded and the rust is aparent in one of the pics below....Thanks to Richard Thorpe for supplying the new alu swirl pot, polished up great. The hoses connecting the swirl pot to the petrol tanks were cracked and I replaced these with new silicone hoses..Phew....I have attached some pics for you to see.....the eagled eye'd will also notice I have added an inline filter between the swirl pot and the pump for extra protection now......
thanks again Andy......some photos below.....











thanks again Andy......some photos below.....
Looking really good. This is something i want to attend to at some point. Can i ask how you caught the fuel once you had disconnected the pipes from the swirl pot and tanks?
I was underneath mine yesterday and noticed the fuel pipe from the swirl pot is cracked and the swirl pot is looking very tired.
Jimbo
I was underneath mine yesterday and noticed the fuel pipe from the swirl pot is cracked and the swirl pot is looking very tired.
Jimbo
ferlin said:
What did you use the silicon hose for and are you sure it was suitable for petrol immersion use? Silicon is normally not recommended for petrol except for filler pipes and vents etc but not for immersion or fluid flow like you would have between the tanks.
I agree..Apparently the Silicone hoses are not any good for constant immersion in fuels..Even the filler hose will fail after a while..I found this out by speaking to a samco supplier who wouldnt guarantee the safety of using it even for a filler neck joiner..Ziga Guys, I am really glad I shared this with you, I have followed up with the company that sold me the silicone hose and they have given me the wrong one....allegedly their commercial Team got it wrong.....anyway I have ordered a new FUEL hose from another supplier and it should arrive on wednesday....so back to stripping the Wedge tonight...and emptying all the Fuel again...nightmare....but thanks again for all your feedback....saved me big time......
thanks again
Stewart
thanks again
Stewart
You don't have to drain into a bucket. Wait a while to allow the fuel system to de-pressurise if the car's been running recently. Disconnect the outlet from the fuel pump and block the pipe that goes to the fine filter, that'll stop drainback from the fuel rail. The pump has a valve in it so it won't pass fuel unless it's running, so you should only get a dribble from the pump. Attach a hose on the fuel pump outlet and route it into your petrol can.
Then wedge the AFM flap open with something (I assume you have a flapper?), and then you can turn the fuel pump on and off with the ignition switch, whilst watching the action under the car...
Then wedge the AFM flap open with something (I assume you have a flapper?), and then you can turn the fuel pump on and off with the ignition switch, whilst watching the action under the car...
Hi Stewart,
Your car continues to look as good as ever!
A couple of ideas for you from my experience on my 400SE.
1
I fitted a "Bullit" type fuel filter with a paper type element between the swirlpot and the pump, but it would not flow enough fuel at ALL times:- The fuel pump was starved at high engine power if the petrol tanks were less than half fuel (ie low suction head for the fuel pump)
The problem was resolved by replacing the paper filter element with a mesh "strainer" element - you only need to take the "lumps" out to protect the fuel pump - the standard pump discharge fuel filter takes care of the smaller particles that might affect fuel injectors.
2
The hassle of draining fuel tanks for pump or strainer changes was eased by fitting an in-line ball valve between the swirl pot and the strainer before the pump.
These can be purchased from a local plumbing merchant.
You need a "ball valve" so the fuel flow is straight through (ie no resistance to flow) when the valve is open.
I purchased a threaded ball valve, plus threaded "hose" fittings to suit the size of fuel hose I was using.
The ball valve handle can be secured in the open position by a cable tie.
No more sleevefulls of fuel!!
Regards
Hamish
Your car continues to look as good as ever!
A couple of ideas for you from my experience on my 400SE.
1
I fitted a "Bullit" type fuel filter with a paper type element between the swirlpot and the pump, but it would not flow enough fuel at ALL times:- The fuel pump was starved at high engine power if the petrol tanks were less than half fuel (ie low suction head for the fuel pump)
The problem was resolved by replacing the paper filter element with a mesh "strainer" element - you only need to take the "lumps" out to protect the fuel pump - the standard pump discharge fuel filter takes care of the smaller particles that might affect fuel injectors.
2
The hassle of draining fuel tanks for pump or strainer changes was eased by fitting an in-line ball valve between the swirl pot and the strainer before the pump.
These can be purchased from a local plumbing merchant.
You need a "ball valve" so the fuel flow is straight through (ie no resistance to flow) when the valve is open.
I purchased a threaded ball valve, plus threaded "hose" fittings to suit the size of fuel hose I was using.
The ball valve handle can be secured in the open position by a cable tie.
No more sleevefulls of fuel!!
Regards
Hamish
Hamish400 said:
Hi Stewart,
Your car continues to look as good as ever!
A couple of ideas for you from my experience on my 400SE.
1
I fitted a "Bullit" type fuel filter with a paper type element between the swirlpot and the pump, but it would not flow enough fuel at ALL times:- The fuel pump was starved at high engine power if the petrol tanks were less than half fuel (ie low suction head for the fuel pump)
The problem was resolved by replacing the paper filter element with a mesh "strainer" element - you only need to take the "lumps" out to protect the fuel pump - the standard pump discharge fuel filter takes care of the smaller particles that might affect fuel injectors.
2
The hassle of draining fuel tanks for pump or strainer changes was eased by fitting an in-line ball valve between the swirl pot and the strainer before the pump.
These can be purchased from a local plumbing merchant.
You need a "ball valve" so the fuel flow is straight through (ie no resistance to flow) when the valve is open.
I purchased a threaded ball valve, plus threaded "hose" fittings to suit the size of fuel hose I was using.
The ball valve handle can be secured in the open position by a cable tie.
No more sleevefulls of fuel!!
Regards
Hamish
Thanks Hamish, much appreciated...the challenge I have is I need to replace the silicone hoses that connect both tanks to the swirl pot, have drained the fuel out tonight, roll on wednesday for my new hoses to be delivered.....also noticed tonight I have another job, the rear Wheel Bearings are showing wear, so will need to replace these before I put the wedge back on the road.....cheers, StewartYour car continues to look as good as ever!
A couple of ideas for you from my experience on my 400SE.
1
I fitted a "Bullit" type fuel filter with a paper type element between the swirlpot and the pump, but it would not flow enough fuel at ALL times:- The fuel pump was starved at high engine power if the petrol tanks were less than half fuel (ie low suction head for the fuel pump)
The problem was resolved by replacing the paper filter element with a mesh "strainer" element - you only need to take the "lumps" out to protect the fuel pump - the standard pump discharge fuel filter takes care of the smaller particles that might affect fuel injectors.
2
The hassle of draining fuel tanks for pump or strainer changes was eased by fitting an in-line ball valve between the swirl pot and the strainer before the pump.
These can be purchased from a local plumbing merchant.
You need a "ball valve" so the fuel flow is straight through (ie no resistance to flow) when the valve is open.
I purchased a threaded ball valve, plus threaded "hose" fittings to suit the size of fuel hose I was using.
The ball valve handle can be secured in the open position by a cable tie.
No more sleevefulls of fuel!!
Regards
Hamish
smcquill said:
Thanks Hamish, much appreciated...the challenge I have is I need to replace the silicone hoses that connect both tanks to the swirl pot, have drained the fuel out tonight, roll on wednesday for my new hoses to be delivered.....also noticed tonight I have another job, the rear Wheel Bearings are showing wear, so will need to replace these before I put the wedge back on the road.....cheers, Stewart
Hi StewartYour car is looking good, nice clean chassis as well!
After you do the wheel bearings how about coming down to the fest and do some of you drawings of peoples cars! I know a few who would like one of their's including me!
Andy
Edited by Mr Tank on Tuesday 17th April 21:26
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