Clutch change milage?
Discussion
There is no clutch change interval per say. It's not uncommon to find scoobs with over 110+K miles on the original clutch. It is down to driving style and how much you punish your clutch.
If you drive like driving miss daisy then it could be a very long time between clutches. If you drive like a hooligan and enjoy your launches then it could be 10K miles or less.
If you drive like driving miss daisy then it could be a very long time between clutches. If you drive like a hooligan and enjoy your launches then it could be 10K miles or less.
ScoobieWRX said:
There is no clutch change interval per say. It's not uncommon to find scoobs with over 110+K miles on the original clutch. It is down to driving style and how much you punish your clutch.
If you drive like driving miss daisy then it could be a very long time between clutches. If you drive like a hooligan and enjoy your launches then it could be 10K miles or less.
cheers guys,i thought i had read somewhere that it was due around 85k so was a bit suprised its still going 10k later on (it is slipping slightly though)If you drive like driving miss daisy then it could be a very long time between clutches. If you drive like a hooligan and enjoy your launches then it could be 10K miles or less.
thats probably put the jinx on it then.
if it goes with a bang tonight - its your fault!
i'll need to get it done before it goes completely as theres no-where near me that will do it for good money. i usually use Eurospec (40 miles away) but even they cant compete with the price given by ignition motorsport - still50 miles away!
if it goes with a bang tonight - its your fault!
i'll need to get it done before it goes completely as theres no-where near me that will do it for good money. i usually use Eurospec (40 miles away) but even they cant compete with the price given by ignition motorsport - still50 miles away!
My STi clutch was shot to bits by 44K, however, it was running higher BHP... Really, as others have said, it depends how you drive the car. My STi had done 5 track day before I had it changed.
Having watched the clutch change I simply can't see how you could DIY this unless 1) you had a ramp 2) you really knew your s
t... The amount of stuff that come off when I had mine done was surprising...
Having watched the clutch change I simply can't see how you could DIY this unless 1) you had a ramp 2) you really knew your s
t... The amount of stuff that come off when I had mine done was surprising...You'd be surprised at just how simple a job it is. Like a lot of things it looks more complex than it really is.
If i can change the clutch on a VX 4/90 (in my yoof) in the freezing cold on a winter night with snow everywhere and my car up on one side on a high curb with no ramps or jacks and very few borowed spanners, then you can do a Subaru clutch in a nice warm dry garage with just a simple cheap trolley jack and two axle stands, and a handful of metric spanners.
Seriously, not complicated to do.
If i can change the clutch on a VX 4/90 (in my yoof) in the freezing cold on a winter night with snow everywhere and my car up on one side on a high curb with no ramps or jacks and very few borowed spanners, then you can do a Subaru clutch in a nice warm dry garage with just a simple cheap trolley jack and two axle stands, and a handful of metric spanners.
Seriously, not complicated to do.
The best way to learn about Subaru's or any other car is to get someone round that knows their way around and work with them to do things like Engine/Gearbox/Diff/Driveshaft/Clutch/Suspension changes. The same goes for any engine and gearbox work.
You've got to get your hands dirty to to find out how simple they really are to work on. I like working on Subaru more than any other car i've taken apart since age 10yrs.
You've got to get your hands dirty to to find out how simple they really are to work on. I like working on Subaru more than any other car i've taken apart since age 10yrs.
Sometimes you just have to get a workshop manual, roll up your sleeves, and have a go.
A lot of it is pretty stright forward though and fairly self-explanatory as it starts to come apart.
Getting all your nuts and bolts and bits you take off layed out in order on a work bench helps, and take pictures right the way through the removal process to use as reference points to make sure it all goes back the same when you start rebuilding.
Simples!!
A lot of it is pretty stright forward though and fairly self-explanatory as it starts to come apart.
Getting all your nuts and bolts and bits you take off layed out in order on a work bench helps, and take pictures right the way through the removal process to use as reference points to make sure it all goes back the same when you start rebuilding.
Simples!!
Nip to eBay and buy a workshop manual for your model scoob or let me know your year car as i'm sure i have manuals for 92-2000.2001-2007 and 2008+ cars you can download off my servers.
You won't really need a manual though just to do brake pads. You'll look at it, have a Eureka moment, and say to yourself 'Simples!!' in a low whisper so people don't think you're going mad.
You won't really need a manual though just to do brake pads. You'll look at it, have a Eureka moment, and say to yourself 'Simples!!' in a low whisper so people don't think you're going mad.
Actually, I do agree... I have done my brakes, full exhaust, panel filter (a bit easy tht one), various hoses, oil change. The only thing I would say is that a decent set of spanners and sockets does make the whole experience better. Oh, and some axle stands and a big hydraulic jack.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6oGAftGpno&sns...
I used this as a guide for a pad change. Make sure you put a bit of wood or something between the piston and the disc when you are pressing the pistons back in. Otherwise the opposite one will pop back out too far and come out of its cylinder! You will then have to fiddle for ages to get the bugger back in! I learnt this the hard way
If this happens then you need to apply equal pressure on both sides of the piston face so it pushes it dead straight back into the cylinder, otherwise it will kind of jar and not go back in...
I used this as a guide for a pad change. Make sure you put a bit of wood or something between the piston and the disc when you are pressing the pistons back in. Otherwise the opposite one will pop back out too far and come out of its cylinder! You will then have to fiddle for ages to get the bugger back in! I learnt this the hard way
If this happens then you need to apply equal pressure on both sides of the piston face so it pushes it dead straight back into the cylinder, otherwise it will kind of jar and not go back in...
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