Buying a Puma. What to look out for?
Discussion
They all have rust around the arches - it's simply a matter of how much you can accept! Otherwise the next most obvious thing to check is that the heater controls work (common for the HCV to go but a cheap diy fix if it is). Best cars to get are the later digi dash as they tend to be slightly better specced and have bigger brakes.
Cambelt done recently, by a proper garage is a good thing.
Rust in places you can't see is worse than the cosmetic rust on the arches.
Later cars have bigger brakes and slightly better spec, but also are a tiny bit slower to 60 (AFAIK the early ones don't have the torque limiter in 1st and 2nd).
Rear beam bushes can cause problems and aren't the cheapest job in the world (parts are cheap though), polybushes on the rear can give a harsh ride.
Likewise front wishbone bushes could be dead and will affect steering feel, front droplinks are made of cheese so could be bent if the car has been kerbed.
The HCV can die so check the blowers on hot and cold.
A sticky throttle is an easy fix that means either a slightly coked throttle body or a replacement throttle cable will be needed.
I've also read about leaky steering racks spilling PS fluid but I'd guess this would be obvious when checking levels.
Other than that the usual cheap second hand car caveats apply, as there are tons available walk away if you're not convinced. (Or buy the only one you view like I did).
Rust in places you can't see is worse than the cosmetic rust on the arches.
Later cars have bigger brakes and slightly better spec, but also are a tiny bit slower to 60 (AFAIK the early ones don't have the torque limiter in 1st and 2nd).
Rear beam bushes can cause problems and aren't the cheapest job in the world (parts are cheap though), polybushes on the rear can give a harsh ride.
Likewise front wishbone bushes could be dead and will affect steering feel, front droplinks are made of cheese so could be bent if the car has been kerbed.
The HCV can die so check the blowers on hot and cold.
A sticky throttle is an easy fix that means either a slightly coked throttle body or a replacement throttle cable will be needed.
I've also read about leaky steering racks spilling PS fluid but I'd guess this would be obvious when checking levels.
Other than that the usual cheap second hand car caveats apply, as there are tons available walk away if you're not convinced. (Or buy the only one you view like I did).
Give the carpets a good feel too as they tend to rust if the drain plugs under the wiper panel get blocked up.
Make sure cambelt doesn't need doing as it's around a £340 job all in.
Another good indicator of shagged bushes is to get it up to 70+ on a d/c or motorway. If it feels jittery/twitchy over the ondulations rather than planted then you'll be needing some new ones. Be careful getting poly bushes as they're very marmite. Personally I think the powerflex poly ones are hard as f
king nails, but the floflex poly ones are a good compromise between handling and comfort imho.
And of course check for rust, rust and more rust. Don't be fooled with "there's only a couple of small bubbles on the arches" either - the rear arches rust from the inner wing outwards, behind the piece of carpet, so if there's visible rust on the exterior wing then there's probably not much metal left on the inner wing.
Immaculate 1-lady-owner-from-new ones with stupidly low mileage do come up for sale from time to time so if you have some patience you could get a minter. I bought my 1.7 Lux a few months back for £1500 with 28k on it and it's immaculate.
Make sure cambelt doesn't need doing as it's around a £340 job all in.
Another good indicator of shagged bushes is to get it up to 70+ on a d/c or motorway. If it feels jittery/twitchy over the ondulations rather than planted then you'll be needing some new ones. Be careful getting poly bushes as they're very marmite. Personally I think the powerflex poly ones are hard as f
king nails, but the floflex poly ones are a good compromise between handling and comfort imho.And of course check for rust, rust and more rust. Don't be fooled with "there's only a couple of small bubbles on the arches" either - the rear arches rust from the inner wing outwards, behind the piece of carpet, so if there's visible rust on the exterior wing then there's probably not much metal left on the inner wing.
Immaculate 1-lady-owner-from-new ones with stupidly low mileage do come up for sale from time to time so if you have some patience you could get a minter. I bought my 1.7 Lux a few months back for £1500 with 28k on it and it's immaculate.
SirSamuelOfBuca said:
Rust around arches is easily fixed so don't let it put you off.
"Easily fixed" if you want it coming through again within 2 weeks. A proper job means cutting out the rust and welding in new metal and spraying it all. Unlikely to get any change out of £600 for all that, and that's on the assumption that the inner arches are still metal and not rot, which they won't be if the outer arch is rotten because it's the same piece of soggy carpet connecting the two that causes it all.
lou556 said:
What's the deal with this torque limiter, surely the gearbox can handle a rippling 117 lb ft !!
It limits the output slightly in first and maybe second gear. To be honest you hardly notice it, the book 0-60 time is 9.2 seconds but it never feels stifled (though mine was an import and has no TCS so may not have the limiter I don't really know). The thing is so responsive that once you have pulled away unless you are really on it through very tight hairpin bends 3/4/5 are all you need to use. drmotorsport said:
They all have rust around the arches - it's simply a matter of how much you can accept!
They don't... If you're not in a hurry, keep looking for one without rust, they do exist.FRPs are good cars, but they're stupidly expensive, so unless you want to cherish one, don't bother.
There's a reason Ford couldn't shift the (tiny) volume they expected to - They're not THAT much better than the standard car (but get bigger brakes if you plan on 'spirited' driving!).
Just seen your 'track use' comment - I'd agree with a remark I saw elsewhere. Pumas are great road cars, but there are possibly better track cars for the same kind of money...
M.
Edited by marcosgt on Monday 16th April 17:04
Chrisw666 said:
It limits the output slightly in first and maybe second gear. To be honest you hardly notice it, the book 0-60 time is 9.2 seconds but it never feels stifled (though mine was an import and has no TCS so may not have the limiter I don't really know). The thing is so responsive that once you have pulled away unless you are really on it through very tight hairpin bends 3/4/5 are all you need to use.
Aye, true that Chris. Even driving round town and local roads here it's in 5th gear pretty much all the time on mine. The low down torque is quite diesel-like as it'll happily trundle round at 1000-1500 revs and pull you enough to get a bit of a wriggle on without needing to change down. I really do like that lazy driving style but yet when I'm in the mood to wring its neck it happily obliges too! 
Just wish they had a 6th gear for motorways.. 
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