Hard at it on the boat
Discussion
Organising all these chaps to do some work on the boat.
Strip off 4-5 mm antifoul. Very eco friendly as it uses a french furnace waste product to leave an abraded surface ready for epoxy after a wash. The people in the car park with the dust covering didn't seem that interested in this point.
Rudders and stocks removed. Now rebuilt and waiting final polish and bolt on. And no this time none of the underwater fittings will be painted / garmed up with antifoul or other products so the anodes may just get to do the job they are designed to.
Bottom Stripped and minor dings repaired. Looks worse than it is as any damage is wetted out with epoxy before filling and sand back.
Tabs rebuilt, mounted and pressure tested. Anode bolts all ground out and wetted out with epoxy before fitting.
The little chap that goes down in the engine room is too shy to have his photo taken but he assures me that after four days at it he is positive that tomorrow is the day when the hubs will go ping off the shafts allowing the new seals to be fitted.
The slightly larger chap that was down there last week has rebuilt the suspect gearbox and relieved me of a rather large sum of money.
The nice chap in the chandlers has taken another substantial sum in return for the 8 coats of products to go on the bottom and my son has arrived home from 5 months skiing so I put him to work.
The new cockpit upholstery arrived today
and now I am thinking I might need a man to change the dash.
In the last pic you can just make out the pushpit rail looking down a little further than it should from the bloody windfarm boat resting on it whilst in the crane. Stainless guy is on the case.
All being good, back in the water on Friday with an arse worthy of another twenty years. Fair worn me out it has.
Strip off 4-5 mm antifoul. Very eco friendly as it uses a french furnace waste product to leave an abraded surface ready for epoxy after a wash. The people in the car park with the dust covering didn't seem that interested in this point.
Rudders and stocks removed. Now rebuilt and waiting final polish and bolt on. And no this time none of the underwater fittings will be painted / garmed up with antifoul or other products so the anodes may just get to do the job they are designed to.
Bottom Stripped and minor dings repaired. Looks worse than it is as any damage is wetted out with epoxy before filling and sand back.
Tabs rebuilt, mounted and pressure tested. Anode bolts all ground out and wetted out with epoxy before fitting.
The little chap that goes down in the engine room is too shy to have his photo taken but he assures me that after four days at it he is positive that tomorrow is the day when the hubs will go ping off the shafts allowing the new seals to be fitted.
The slightly larger chap that was down there last week has rebuilt the suspect gearbox and relieved me of a rather large sum of money.
The nice chap in the chandlers has taken another substantial sum in return for the 8 coats of products to go on the bottom and my son has arrived home from 5 months skiing so I put him to work.
The new cockpit upholstery arrived today
and now I am thinking I might need a man to change the dash.
In the last pic you can just make out the pushpit rail looking down a little further than it should from the bloody windfarm boat resting on it whilst in the crane. Stainless guy is on the case.
All being good, back in the water on Friday with an arse worthy of another twenty years. Fair worn me out it has.
m0ssy said:
(have you superglued the fake walnut back on yet where the dials are?) 
I was thinking there's more room for more dials on the left hand side. A trip to Halfords for an 'Extra Dials Pack' perhaps?Sooo... are you skipping antifoul and just letting epoxy + jetwash do the job? Or maybe rely on sheer speed to wash the barnacles and limpets off?!!
m0ssy said:
looking good !! I particularly like the upholstery, you must be knackered from barking all those order out... perhaps you should take it easy for a few days!
(have you superglued the fake walnut back on yet where the dials are?)
Problem is the chaps get a bit feisty if I pour myself a gin while they are hard at it, so I've taken to shutting the cabin doors to save any embarrassment.(have you superglued the fake walnut back on yet where the dials are?)
The formica is still there. Considered getting someone to do something in carbon fibre but thinking that's so last year, so am now investigating other novel materials preferably sourced by young virgins or something. Might have to give Bacardi a call for ideas.
Simpo Two said:
I was thinking there's more room for more dials on the left hand side. A trip to Halfords for an 'Extra Dials Pack' perhaps?
Sooo... are you skipping antifoul and just letting epoxy + jetwash do the job? Or maybe rely on sheer speed to wash the barnacles and limpets off?!!
No skipping antifoul, the barnacles round here are known for swimming at incredible speed and having the ability to stick to the least stickiest thing known to man.Sooo... are you skipping antifoul and just letting epoxy + jetwash do the job? Or maybe rely on sheer speed to wash the barnacles and limpets off?!!
No photo today as I forgot. Well my mind was on other matters like whether three cocktail cabinets is sufficient to carry the gin stores.
But you'll be pleased to know that yesterday the boat's arse finished up grey and today it is bright green, hopefully tomorrow it will go through another three colour changes and the day after just two coats of white racing antifoul.
Oh and the embarrassed man in the engine room is still there and struggling with the hubs but is still confident they will come off. I may treat to him to a gin when it happens.
MOTORVATOR said:
formica is still there. Considered getting someone to do something in carbon fibre but thinking that's so last year, so am now investigating other novel materials preferably sauced by young virgins or something. Might have to give Bacardi a call for ideas.
Now that is thinking outside the box....You will come off you b
d!
And yes that is 1700 litres of diesel above his head. One down one to go tomorrow.
Hey look at me I'm a chameleon.
Only antifoul left to go, two rudders to bolt back up, grounding straps to reconnect, hang 50kg of zinc on the new bolts, polish up grounding plate, slap of polish on the sides, one shaft to remove and reseal, stainless fabricator with the new pushpit, engineers blue and mount new props, jetwash the cork deck along with the engineer and his tools out the back of the boat and reprovision the gin cabinet.
We will relaunch on Friday.
d!And yes that is 1700 litres of diesel above his head. One down one to go tomorrow.
Hey look at me I'm a chameleon.
Only antifoul left to go, two rudders to bolt back up, grounding straps to reconnect, hang 50kg of zinc on the new bolts, polish up grounding plate, slap of polish on the sides, one shaft to remove and reseal, stainless fabricator with the new pushpit, engineers blue and mount new props, jetwash the cork deck along with the engineer and his tools out the back of the boat and reprovision the gin cabinet.
We will relaunch on Friday.
Benjaminpalma said:
Far from - underwater, without cathodic protection, the zinc leaches out leaving brittle and weak copper.
OK - this is a photo of my rudder two days before launch. Can you tell if it's been epoxied etc? It doesn't look like bare metal but it doesn't have the dimpled appearance that the epoxy on the hull had:
Simpo Two said:
OK - this is a photo of my rudder two days before launch. Can you tell if it's been epoxied etc? It doesn't look like bare metal but it doesn't have the dimpled appearance that the epoxy on the hull had:
I doesn't look like bare metal - but then it doesn't look like bronze either. I'd be running some filler over that welded seam.Well she went back in the water Friday as promised. She got put in the slings long enough for me antifoul the holidays, polish the bronze and give the grounding plate a good wirebrushing to expose fresh material.
Can't upload pics at the moment as Orange seems to be having a problem with the 3g.
Rudders though I was always taught that underwater gear should be left totally clean as the different metals should show as much surface area for the grounding protection as possible.
My rudders are bronze on a stainless shaft with a bronze tiller on top running in a bronze stock with unobtanium bearings, so the bonding is tiller and stock. If you epoxy then there is a high possibility of a small area of damage to the epoxy with only that small area showing to the water meaning if the bonding breaks down then only a focused area gets the damage which could be a problem. Keep them totally uncovered and you can spot a problem early enough to do something about it.
Can't upload pics at the moment as Orange seems to be having a problem with the 3g.
Rudders though I was always taught that underwater gear should be left totally clean as the different metals should show as much surface area for the grounding protection as possible.
My rudders are bronze on a stainless shaft with a bronze tiller on top running in a bronze stock with unobtanium bearings, so the bonding is tiller and stock. If you epoxy then there is a high possibility of a small area of damage to the epoxy with only that small area showing to the water meaning if the bonding breaks down then only a focused area gets the damage which could be a problem. Keep them totally uncovered and you can spot a problem early enough to do something about it.
MOTORVATOR said:
Rudders though I was always taught that underwater gear should be left totally clean as the different metals should show as much surface area for the grounding protection as possible.
My rudders are bronze on a stainless shaft with a bronze tiller on top running in a bronze stock with unobtanium bearings, so the bonding is tiller and stock. If you epoxy then there is a high possibility of a small area of damage to the epoxy with only that small area showing to the water meaning if the bonding breaks down then only a focused area gets the damage which could be a problem. Keep them totally uncovered and you can spot a problem early enough to do something about it.
That makes a lot of sense.My rudders are bronze on a stainless shaft with a bronze tiller on top running in a bronze stock with unobtanium bearings, so the bonding is tiller and stock. If you epoxy then there is a high possibility of a small area of damage to the epoxy with only that small area showing to the water meaning if the bonding breaks down then only a focused area gets the damage which could be a problem. Keep them totally uncovered and you can spot a problem early enough to do something about it.
Benjaminpalma said:
Simpo Two said:
Isn't bronze supposed to be non-reactive?
Far from - underwater, without cathodic protection, the zinc leaches out leaving brittle and weak copper.Brass - an alloy of copper and zinc, known to suffer dezincification, ie the zinc leaches out and you are left with a copper structure with little mechanical strength.
Bronze (aka gun metal) - an alloy of copper and tin.
Copied and pasted from the Classic Marine website.
Copper-based Alloys - which is which?
Brasses
Common Brass
CZ108
Zn 37%
Interior Fittings
Naval Brass
CZ112
Zn 37% Sn1%
Pre-war boat fittings
High Tensile Brass
CZ114
Zn 37% Mn 2% Al 1.5% Fe 1% Pb 1.5% Sn 0.8%
Snap shackles, Propellers, Winches
De-zincification resistant (DZR) Brass
CZ132
Zn 36% Pb 2.8% As 0.1%
Hull valves and skin fittings
Bronzes
Aluminium Bronze
CA104
Al 10% Ni5% Fe5%
High strength fittings
Phosphor Bronze
PB102
Sn 5% P 0.2%
Fabricated/wrought fittings
Silicon Bronze
CS101
Si 3% Mn1%
Fasteners
Gunmetal
LG2
Sn 5% Pb5% Zn5%
Cast hardware
Aluminium Bronze - cast
AB2
Al 10% Ni5% Fe3%
Stanchions, some mast hardware
Edited by Huntsman on Monday 23 April 08:22
Huntsman said:
Benjaminpalma said:
Simpo Two said:
Isn't bronze supposed to be non-reactive?
Far from - underwater, without cathodic protection, the zinc leaches out leaving brittle and weak copper.Brass - an alloy of copper and zinc, known to suffer dezincification, ie the zinc leaches out and you are left with a copper structure with little mechanical strength.
Bronze (aka gun metal) - an alloy of copper and tin.
Copied and pasted from the Classic Marine website.
Copper-based Alloys - which is which?
Brasses
Common Brass
CZ108
Zn 37%
Interior Fittings
Naval Brass
CZ112
Zn 37% Sn1%
Pre-war boat fittings
High Tensile Brass
CZ114
Zn 37% Mn 2% Al 1.5% Fe 1% Pb 1.5% Sn 0.8%
Snap shackles, Propellers, Winches
De-zincification resistant (DZR) Brass
CZ132
Zn 36% Pb 2.8% As 0.1%
Hull valves and skin fittings
Bronzes
Aluminium Bronze
CA104
Al 10% Ni5% Fe5%
High strength fittings
Phosphor Bronze
PB102
Sn 5% P 0.2%
Fabricated/wrought fittings
Silicon Bronze
CS101
Si 3% Mn1%
Fasteners
Gunmetal
LG2
Sn 5% Pb5% Zn5%
Cast hardware
Aluminium Bronze - cast
AB2
Al 10% Ni5% Fe3%
Stanchions, some mast hardware
Edited by Huntsman on Monday 23 April 08:22
Teignbridge rudders are precision machined from high quality one piece castings in either Manganese Bronze or Nickel Aluminium Bronze. The transom mounted rudder housings are fitted with seals to prevent the ingress of water.
While Jack filled the holidays in I took pics, then we both set about a final polish of metalwork with electric drills and brass brushes but didn't get the final pics as we were in danger of getting tipped in the drink 'cause they wanted their crane back. 
Now as we like a good argument here, What do you think of my brilliant white antifoul? Yes it is white.
Two final pieces of upholstery to be delivered later this week as the frames needed rebuilding and the chap has been down this morning to flush the gearbox through, check pressures and levels and basically warranty his work.
So the outcome?
Well the boat is handling totally differently with the new props, both gearbox engagements are nice and crisp with a perfectly soft take up. The rebuilt one though now has over 300 psi oil pressure at full engagement apparently due to the new specification of clutch plates.
550 rpm tickover now gives 6.8 knots one way and 7.3 the other so that should be fun when we visit Simpo on his pond.
All good and off up the river for speed trials. Total disappointment, she is only achieving 32 knots at 1950 rpm and the engines are surging at WOT. bks.
Back to the pontoon and Motorvator has one of those lighbulb moments. At the end of last year I changed the Racor filters for 10 micron to clean the fuel up after dosing with Marine16. They should be 40 micron for full flow and I didn't have them on board to change.
The reduced rake of the props from having the right design though rather than the previous rubbish has resulted in exactly what I predicted. I can now drive down the river viewing sea rather than sky! Anyone want to buy a nice set of french props?
So looks like I won't get to experience the full potential until the weekend now. Still as we were fully loaded with fuel and water and there is potentially another 400 rpm to come with enough fuel flow it seems that close to 40 knots is on the books.
Now as we like a good argument here, What do you think of my brilliant white antifoul? Yes it is white.
Two final pieces of upholstery to be delivered later this week as the frames needed rebuilding and the chap has been down this morning to flush the gearbox through, check pressures and levels and basically warranty his work.
So the outcome?
Well the boat is handling totally differently with the new props, both gearbox engagements are nice and crisp with a perfectly soft take up. The rebuilt one though now has over 300 psi oil pressure at full engagement apparently due to the new specification of clutch plates.
550 rpm tickover now gives 6.8 knots one way and 7.3 the other so that should be fun when we visit Simpo on his pond.All good and off up the river for speed trials. Total disappointment, she is only achieving 32 knots at 1950 rpm and the engines are surging at WOT. b
ks.Back to the pontoon and Motorvator has one of those lighbulb moments. At the end of last year I changed the Racor filters for 10 micron to clean the fuel up after dosing with Marine16. They should be 40 micron for full flow and I didn't have them on board to change.
The reduced rake of the props from having the right design though rather than the previous rubbish has resulted in exactly what I predicted. I can now drive down the river viewing sea rather than sky! Anyone want to buy a nice set of french props?
So looks like I won't get to experience the full potential until the weekend now. Still as we were fully loaded with fuel and water and there is potentially another 400 rpm to come with enough fuel flow it seems that close to 40 knots is on the books.
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