Discussion
So I've had a few quotes on clutch prices as I suspect mine is on the way out. The bite seems higher than what it used to be and it doesn't feel as sharp, not sure how long the clutch life has remaining.
£768 from Ford. £650 from company in Liverpool & a local garage has quoted a little over £800 of which he says that includes everything (clutch, flywheels, cylinder & other stuff that I can't remember), he also says the Ford quote won't include the little extra things they'll be doing.
These prices have shocked me & I simply can't afford that on top of other things that need doing (major service time). It's currently up for sale but is struggling to sell. I wouldn't like to sell it to someone then the clutch go on them shortly after but at the same time the next car I buy may need it doing also... who knows.
Is there a cheaper way around this or is it something I'll have to just bite the bullet with?
£768 from Ford. £650 from company in Liverpool & a local garage has quoted a little over £800 of which he says that includes everything (clutch, flywheels, cylinder & other stuff that I can't remember), he also says the Ford quote won't include the little extra things they'll be doing.
These prices have shocked me & I simply can't afford that on top of other things that need doing (major service time). It's currently up for sale but is struggling to sell. I wouldn't like to sell it to someone then the clutch go on them shortly after but at the same time the next car I buy may need it doing also... who knows.
Is there a cheaper way around this or is it something I'll have to just bite the bullet with?
That sounds like a more viable option, although I've heard it's best to get it all done at the same time. Was that a case of you deciding if the extra work needed doing or the mechanic? I wouldn't have a clue tbh.
Also, would a garage use the exactly the same branded clutch as Ford or would it be a cheaper brand? Might be worth the extra money if it's an official ford product.
Also, would a garage use the exactly the same branded clutch as Ford or would it be a cheaper brand? Might be worth the extra money if it's an official ford product.
I used to work for two Ford dealer service dept's, think carefully - once your subframe is on the floor and car in pieces are you really going to decline the additional cost of fitting the flywheel?
doesnt make sense to pay someone else to do the same job for you straight away, that is when you will be hit with the £500 plus £££ cost of flywheel and new bolts
if you want a ford dealer to do it you may want to ask them beforehand for a quote for the lot with non-gen bits... you may be surprised at their response, in order to keep getting business many dealers will use non-gen stuff
doesnt make sense to pay someone else to do the same job for you straight away, that is when you will be hit with the £500 plus £££ cost of flywheel and new bolts
if you want a ford dealer to do it you may want to ask them beforehand for a quote for the lot with non-gen bits... you may be surprised at their response, in order to keep getting business many dealers will use non-gen stuff
FellowPazzini said:
£768 from Ford. £650 from company in Liverpool & a local garage has quoted a little over £800 of which he says that includes everything (clutch, flywheels, cylinder & other stuff that I can't remember), he also says the Ford quote won't include the little extra things they'll be doing.
It's the price one pays for having front wheel drive cars with everything crammed into the smallest space the manufacturers can contrive. Removing a gearbox (for clutch replacement) on a modern car involves a fair amount of work, if done correctly.Friend of mine had such a job done and now there's a distinct knocking noise from the nearside front area - but I haven't said anything to him about it, as I don't want to cause any upset!! Undoubtedly somethings loose or malfitted.
And on a slightly different tack, on most average cars even the brake calipers are in the wrong place - that is, in front of the axle causing increased stress on the front wheel bearing under braking. Whereas it seems only the more expensive cars have it in the right place behind the axle.
FellowPazzini said:
8 hours! blimey. OK I understand that but it's still a blow. Something like that could easily be the reason a good conditioned Mondeo is written off. It's a shame Ford didn't design them to be a little more manageable.
Written off?! Come off it. It's a bill. Cars throw up bills occasionally. You pay it and continue. £700 is hardly worth getting rid of an otherwise decent car for, is it?Howard- said:
Written off?! Come off it. It's a bill. Cars throw up bills occasionally.
I was 19 when I first took a car to a garage for repair. And they made a complete horlicks of it. Other than a MOT test (and I'm not really happy about that), I've never taken a car to a garage since - and I'm a lot older now!!!I was under the impression that contributors mainly did their own repairs and used this site to share their experiences with others. So all this talk about garage repair bills seem somewhat counter to information sharing.
dilateous said:
I was 19 when I first took a car to a garage for repair. And they made a complete horlicks of it. Other than a MOT test (and I'm not really happy about that), I've never taken a car to a garage since - and I'm a lot older now!!!
I was under the impression that contributors mainly did their own repairs and used this site to share their experiences with others. So all this talk about garage repair bills seem somewhat counter to information sharing.
I was merely referring to the notion of a car being written off because it is in need of a new clutch. That's like saying it's uneconomical to replace all four tyres, as a decent set will cost you £600 odd!I was under the impression that contributors mainly did their own repairs and used this site to share their experiences with others. So all this talk about garage repair bills seem somewhat counter to information sharing.
dilateous said:
It's the price one pays for having front wheel drive cars with everything crammed into the smallest space the manufacturers can contrive. Removing a gearbox (for clutch replacement) on a modern car involves a fair amount of work, if done correctly.
Friend of mine had such a job done and now there's a distinct knocking noise from the nearside front area - but I haven't said anything to him about it, as I don't want to cause any upset!! Undoubtedly somethings loose or malfitted.
And on a slightly different tack, on most average cars even the brake calipers are in the wrong place - that is, in front of the axle causing increased stress on the front wheel bearing under braking. Whereas it seems only the more expensive cars have it in the right place behind the axle.
What difference does the position of the calipers make to the wheel bearing? Friend of mine had such a job done and now there's a distinct knocking noise from the nearside front area - but I haven't said anything to him about it, as I don't want to cause any upset!! Undoubtedly somethings loose or malfitted.
And on a slightly different tack, on most average cars even the brake calipers are in the wrong place - that is, in front of the axle causing increased stress on the front wheel bearing under braking. Whereas it seems only the more expensive cars have it in the right place behind the axle.
oakdale said:
What difference does the position of the calipers make to the wheel bearing?
Perhaps an analogy might be the trailing ling suspension on those motor scooters from the 60s and 70s. Apply the brake and the suspension almost collapses, whereas if the suspension was leading link the suspension might even rise a tad. In this analogy it's the spring that experiences the increased or reduced load.A similar principle applies to the disc caliper in front of the axle, when the brake is applied and the caliper grips the disc, it tends to act like the pivot of a trailing link with the disc trying to rotate around it (not to confuse this with the rotation due to normal motion - just to clear up that point!). Needless to say it doesn't beause the wheel bearing stops it. But this is an extra loading on the wheel bearing in addition to the normal braking force. Whereas if the disc caliper was behind the axle and the brake applied, the pivoting force is in the opposite direction (like the leading link suspension) reducing the loading on the bearing.
In other words, the wheel bearing experiences reduced loading like the suspension spring does with the leading link suspension in the scooter analogy above.
Howard- said:
FellowPazzini said:
8 hours! blimey. OK I understand that but it's still a blow. Something like that could easily be the reason a good conditioned Mondeo is written off. It's a shame Ford didn't design them to be a little more manageable.
Written off?! Come off it. It's a bill. Cars throw up bills occasionally. You pay it and continue. £700 is hardly worth getting rid of an otherwise decent car for, is it?GaryST220 said:
Do it yourself of with a friend, take a methodical approach and you'll find it's quite easy.
No patience, required knowledge, tools or brains says not to go down that road ha ha.The clutch might still be OK actually. The bite seems really high, that & the fact it's done 70k originally told me it's probably on the way out although it doesn't seem to be slipping. A mate said you can adjust the clutch & that's possibly all that needs doing to it. It's due a service so I'll ask them to have a quick look. I'm also considering a engine remap which will add extra strain to it apparently.
FellowPazzini said:
No patience, required knowledge, tools or brains says not to go down that road ha ha.
Where's your sense of adventure?Seem to recall on one job I manoeuvred the engine with one hand via a rope wrapped around it, and manipulated the gearbox with the other hand! And one foot did its share of manoeuvering as well!
And at various occasions for lining up a clutch plate I used an old radio valve!!! An ECC82 I recall (a double triode, but not that that's relevant!), which, believe it or not, was a perfect slide fit. Yes, made of glass, but if carefully used it won't break.
FellowPazzini said:
That sounds like a more viable option, although I've heard it's best to get it all done at the same time. Was that a case of you deciding if the extra work needed doing or the mechanic? I wouldn't have a clue tbh.
Also, would a garage use the exactly the same branded clutch as Ford or would it be a cheaper brand? Might be worth the extra money if it's an official ford product.
Mechanic said the DMF in my car had less play than the brand new LUK one he'd got to put in. So he sent the new one back and just replaced the clutch.Also, would a garage use the exactly the same branded clutch as Ford or would it be a cheaper brand? Might be worth the extra money if it's an official ford product.
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