Bought my first part........
Bought my first part........
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Discussion

drive2tractors

Original Poster:

488 posts

294 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
........that I need to start putting everything together!

I decided that I'd go for LR parts so that the joint had a grease nipple. The new chassis is ordered and will be about 9/10 weeks so I should have time to get everything ready.
I have a box of bits ready to go away to be prepped and painted but i'm struggling to get the outer races from the rear hubs, will I have to resort to heat?

I need to get the top joints off the front swivels, is there a trick to this?
The drain plug on the back of the diff is all rounded off ao i was planning to steam clean the diff and remove the back plate so that I can drill this out from inside. Are any of the workings supported by the back plate of will it be straight forward to remove?

While the engine and gearbox are out I was looking to clean them up before going back in, I was going to degrease and then paint with silver high temp paint. Has anyone done this or have any other suggestions?


what can I do about cleaning up other components like this:

All help and suggestions gratefully recieved1
Ta
d2t

andy450

145 posts

196 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
back plate/cover does not support any of the internals,its held on with the bolts(obviously ) but it does need levering off squarly as is located on a couple of dowles and also be careful of the breather at the top as its fragile and expensive if you damage it !
front top swivels(top ball joint) i loosened nut in top "cone" on upright,tap cone where the taper is located to break seal of tapper to cone and then with long punch through bottom ball joint hole in upright hit upwards (when loosening nut make sure the nut is past nylock and can be turned freely by hand ie:almost off) may take varying degrees of blows to break taper seal but percevere and it will separate !! good luck !
i removed rear bearing outer races by using a punch and hammer , drive the races out to the outer working from the center to the outer on both , try to keep them as "level" as poss buy working round with punch as the races need to stay even on way out as the will "jam" in carrier if forced too much if forced from just one side,slow and steady and they will tap through,hope this makes sense smile,
ps, these are all methods that i have used and have been successful,although no doubt there will be more suggestions from others that may work better smile
andy

Edited by andy450 on Wednesday 2nd May 07:23


Edited by andy450 on Wednesday 2nd May 07:49

haircutmike

22,511 posts

234 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
Little trick I learned for removal of the outer cages os bearings;

Tack a couple of welds on either side of the inner cage then you have something to punch out on.

As to the diff plug, these usually surrender to a sharp cold chisel!

drive2tractors

Original Poster:

488 posts

294 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the tips. I must have been having a junior (senior) moment thinking about the front hubs, I was sure the swivels just popped off the top but of course the bolt explains it all now!
I shall be having a go after work today so I hope all goes well!
d2t

JonyTVR

2,579 posts

219 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
with tidyin up the engine and components, depending on how mad you want to go, a metal polishing keit for your drill is only about a tenner, rub any metal down smooth with some sand paper (I use a wire wheel to get any heavy crap off first) and use the kit to bring it up like a mirror. or degrease, sand down, spray or brush with new paint.

haircutmike

22,511 posts

234 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
Or strip it down, give to your friendly engine machinists, (like Chesmans) and have it put in their washer!

drive2tractors

Original Poster:

488 posts

294 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
JonyTVR said:
with tidyin up the engine and components, depending on how mad you want to go, a metal polishing keit for your drill is only about a tenner, rub any metal down smooth with some sand paper (I use a wire wheel to get any heavy crap off first) and use the kit to bring it up like a mirror. or degrease, sand down, spray or brush with new paint.
I've heard of some people using silver brake caliper paint, is that any good?

AJV8

526 posts

176 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
Can i just say, on a totally different note, love the plates !! Reminds me of the

2 BE and NOT 2B on a DB9 and Rangerover sport near battersea bridge.

Off on a tangent, sorry. ha

AJ


Bassfiend

5,530 posts

280 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
AJV8 said:
Can i just say, on a totally different note, love the plates !! Reminds me of the

2 BE and NOT 2B on a DB9 and Rangerover sport near battersea bridge.

Off on a tangent, sorry. ha

AJ
I saw those as well but I think it was two Astons when I was last there!

(I had a customer a few doors down that I programmed up their house lighting for...)

Phil

drive2tractors

Original Poster:

488 posts

294 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2012
quotequote all
AJV8 said:
Can i just say, on a totally different note, love the plates !! Reminds me of the

2 BE and NOT 2B on a DB9 and Rangerover sport near battersea bridge.

Off on a tangent, sorry. ha

AJ
Thanks!
They are nice and memorable. We have 4, 5, 6 and 7 MUG which is quite cool. Now the Chim is in bits we have'nt been able to line them all up for a piccy. Also have SL05MUG on retention which might go on to the C63 AMG......irony can be pretty ironic can't it?
d2t