Body raised - big sigh of relief
Discussion
I finally separated the body from the chassis today and I'm a happy bunny.
Several posts had got me concerned about the potential state of the metalwork as my car is a '98 with white chassis (by so many accounts the worst for quality control). There was certainly some crusty-ness on the bits of outrigger susceptible to a poke so I was expecting to find holes and to be staring at a full body-off refurb.
So great source of relief to find that although the powder coat had gone scabby, the corrosion underneath is entirely superficial. Judging by the history the car had spent a few years dry stored and only occasional use so must have avoided the worst. A good run over with the grinder and wire brush and there's bright metal a plenty on the tubes. The only parts that seem to have suffered any depth of pitting are the corner brace plates and these have dressed up ok.
So, following the many recommendations that POR15 seems to do a nice job, I'll be getting it painted and the Chim is back on the roster for Le Mans.
Observations for anyone contemplating a similar check-up - and a small body raise really is the only way to get a decent look at the outriggers. These might not be valid for all models - but maybe relevant for Chims of a similar age;
The guide to a 2" raise is very helpful for locating all the fixings. http://www.brookbanks.net/
Some of the M10 bolts will be seized - the ones straight through the floor can be sacrificed as none were bonded into the floor. However, be very careful with the seatbelt mountings into the side tubes - plenty of plus gas and take your time.
Manifolds need to come off and the nearside was an absolute PITA even after the exhaust is dropped off.
The front bolts can be done with a bit of dexterity without removing the radiator (I wanted to avoid having to de-gas the air con - the ARB comes out first and there's enough space to get down there.
The fixings through the transmission tunnel can be done without reemoving the centre console trim. Feel for the access hole about level with the vents. A sharp knife and a neat cut will give enough clearance to get a spanner in.
The area on the main spine below the manifolds will also need a bit of attention where the powder coat is failing - I guess it gets pretty warm in there
In summary, as a task this has had a few awkward moments but like most things on a Chim also very rewarding.
Several posts had got me concerned about the potential state of the metalwork as my car is a '98 with white chassis (by so many accounts the worst for quality control). There was certainly some crusty-ness on the bits of outrigger susceptible to a poke so I was expecting to find holes and to be staring at a full body-off refurb.
So great source of relief to find that although the powder coat had gone scabby, the corrosion underneath is entirely superficial. Judging by the history the car had spent a few years dry stored and only occasional use so must have avoided the worst. A good run over with the grinder and wire brush and there's bright metal a plenty on the tubes. The only parts that seem to have suffered any depth of pitting are the corner brace plates and these have dressed up ok.
So, following the many recommendations that POR15 seems to do a nice job, I'll be getting it painted and the Chim is back on the roster for Le Mans.
Observations for anyone contemplating a similar check-up - and a small body raise really is the only way to get a decent look at the outriggers. These might not be valid for all models - but maybe relevant for Chims of a similar age;
The guide to a 2" raise is very helpful for locating all the fixings. http://www.brookbanks.net/
Some of the M10 bolts will be seized - the ones straight through the floor can be sacrificed as none were bonded into the floor. However, be very careful with the seatbelt mountings into the side tubes - plenty of plus gas and take your time.
Manifolds need to come off and the nearside was an absolute PITA even after the exhaust is dropped off.
The front bolts can be done with a bit of dexterity without removing the radiator (I wanted to avoid having to de-gas the air con - the ARB comes out first and there's enough space to get down there.
The fixings through the transmission tunnel can be done without reemoving the centre console trim. Feel for the access hole about level with the vents. A sharp knife and a neat cut will give enough clearance to get a spanner in.
The area on the main spine below the manifolds will also need a bit of attention where the powder coat is failing - I guess it gets pretty warm in there
In summary, as a task this has had a few awkward moments but like most things on a Chim also very rewarding.
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