Discussion
I know this has been done before, but it seems that someone at PH towers needs to through some more nuggets in the search reactor!
So, my shinny new Nitrons with Eibach springs arrived from TVR Power today, and I intend to fit them this weekend. So far I've had an enjoyable time opening the various boxes, reading about, learning about, and assembling my new suspension.
While I'm very practical and hands on, with a clear mechanical understanding, I know very little about suspension. Don't worry I plan to get a full geo set up and have the car corner weighted, but first I need your help to get it all fitted and set up to the point where by I can (gingerly) drive the 12 miles or so on 30 and 40 mph restricted roads to the indie! I have already read Ireland's very useful thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
However, there are some points that are pertinent to my Nitrons and are not answered in the thread which I'd like some help with:
1) I assume the lower rated springs go on the shorter shocks? Power have supplied 2 x 350 lbs/in and 2 x 400 lbs/in springs (bother types have a free length of 900.00)
2) Is there really only a round section circlip in the groove that holds the non adjustable spring cup/plate? (see below)

3) I assume the supplied rubber 'O'-rings go between the bearing the spacers? (see below)


4) I intend to leave the blue +/- adjuster (damping setting I assume) as supplied (they are all currently factory set in the same place), is this wise?
5) As I'm not replacing like for like shocks I don't see how I can measure the setting as Ireland did in his thread. Do I just adjust the spring with the 'C' spanner until the ride height is correct?
As ever your assistance is hugely appreciated.
Regards,
Olly
So, my shinny new Nitrons with Eibach springs arrived from TVR Power today, and I intend to fit them this weekend. So far I've had an enjoyable time opening the various boxes, reading about, learning about, and assembling my new suspension.
While I'm very practical and hands on, with a clear mechanical understanding, I know very little about suspension. Don't worry I plan to get a full geo set up and have the car corner weighted, but first I need your help to get it all fitted and set up to the point where by I can (gingerly) drive the 12 miles or so on 30 and 40 mph restricted roads to the indie! I have already read Ireland's very useful thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
However, there are some points that are pertinent to my Nitrons and are not answered in the thread which I'd like some help with:
1) I assume the lower rated springs go on the shorter shocks? Power have supplied 2 x 350 lbs/in and 2 x 400 lbs/in springs (bother types have a free length of 900.00)
2) Is there really only a round section circlip in the groove that holds the non adjustable spring cup/plate? (see below)
3) I assume the supplied rubber 'O'-rings go between the bearing the spacers? (see below)
4) I intend to leave the blue +/- adjuster (damping setting I assume) as supplied (they are all currently factory set in the same place), is this wise?
5) As I'm not replacing like for like shocks I don't see how I can measure the setting as Ireland did in his thread. Do I just adjust the spring with the 'C' spanner until the ride height is correct?
As ever your assistance is hugely appreciated.
Regards,
Olly
1) No - at least on mine I have 500 lb springs on the front and the shock is 40cm extended, on the rear I have 400lb springs and the shock is 43 cm extended.
2) Yes - that's it!
3) Yes - you are right as shown.
4) Personally I would centre the adjustment at both ends. I don't think you can read anything into where the factory left the adjuster.
5) The correct way to do it is to set the ride height at the corners of the outrigger bracing plates to 130mm using the C spanner to adjust the spring bed.
And as you rightly observed - take it very easy on the way to getting the alignment corrected!
2) Yes - that's it!
3) Yes - you are right as shown.
4) Personally I would centre the adjustment at both ends. I don't think you can read anything into where the factory left the adjuster.
5) The correct way to do it is to set the ride height at the corners of the outrigger bracing plates to 130mm using the C spanner to adjust the spring bed.
And as you rightly observed - take it very easy on the way to getting the alignment corrected!
Boatbuoy said:
Thank you, I'll ammend the springs as per question 1 now before I forget. Thinking about it I therefore assume it's higher rated springs on the front to compensate for the weight of the engine. Am I right?
Yes the front end has more weight so the heavier spring is on the front end. I Have the same set as you. I have done 1000 miles on them in 3 weeks and really enjoying them. I had track V road set the Geo up and i set the dampers to 8 clicks on the front and 7 rear and it seems good for the road.scotty_d said:
Boatbuoy said:
Thank you, I'll ammend the springs as per question 1 now before I forget. Thinking about it I therefore assume it's higher rated springs on the front to compensate for the weight of the engine. Am I right?
Yes the front end has more weight so the heavier spring is on the front end. I Have the same set as you. I have done 1000 miles on them in 3 weeks and really enjoying them. I had track V road set the Geo up and i set the dampers to 8 clicks on the front and 7 rear and it seems good for the road.Also, does + = soft, or hard?
Sorry for being a dullard!
Regards,
Olly
Boatbuoy said:
OK, so when we're talking about clicks, we refer to what? From fully +, or fully - ?
Also, does + = soft, or hard?
Sorry for being a dullard!
Regards,
Olly
I can't recall it does tell you in the Hand book you got with them i am sure i think it was from hard but i will stand corrected. But it is down to personal taste how you set them i started here as i was advised 8 front 8 rear on here and Track V road said 8 and 6 so i went in the middle and it feels good on the road so far.Also, does + = soft, or hard?
Sorry for being a dullard!
Regards,
Olly
Tanguero said:
1)
5) The correct way to do it is to set the ride height at the corners of the outrigger bracing plates to 130mm using the C spanner to adjust the spring bed.
And as you rightly observed - take it very easy on the way to getting the alignment corrected!
I have mine as 130mm front, 140mm rear, measured from corner of the outrigger to road, but then I do take passengers/kids in the back.5) The correct way to do it is to set the ride height at the corners of the outrigger bracing plates to 130mm using the C spanner to adjust the spring bed.
And as you rightly observed - take it very easy on the way to getting the alignment corrected!
Timely thanks. I paid quite a few quid for corner weighting etc a year or so ago. But my nitrons are set lower at the rear and so I need to play with the platforms and possibly the clicks. Currently it's floaty at the front which I hate...
Although joolz is about 9 miles down the rd and hopefully he'll have a butchers.
Although joolz is about 9 miles down the rd and hopefully he'll have a butchers.
Just been out and crudely measured the ride height. Rear at 15cm front at 15.5cm. (lazily I couldn't be bothered to measure both sides...!). Edited to say 14 and 14.5 the other side (so drive not flat!).
I paid a small fortune for corner weighting etc but apparently I ruined it by fitting 40 profile tyres at the front...
Anyway the proposed solution is to raise the rear. I dont think this is right. Anyway am hoping joolz will take a butchers.
I am swapping back to 35s at the front but I think the car will still need lowering all round and a little bit more at the front..
I paid a small fortune for corner weighting etc but apparently I ruined it by fitting 40 profile tyres at the front...
Anyway the proposed solution is to raise the rear. I dont think this is right. Anyway am hoping joolz will take a butchers.
I am swapping back to 35s at the front but I think the car will still need lowering all round and a little bit more at the front..
Edited by Gazzab on Saturday 26th May 10:56
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