Discussion
hi ya just a thought ???? might be worth checking the rod length / adjustment from clutch pedel to master cylinder maybe ( fingers crossed ) the pressure is being kept on enough to make clutch slip in the hihger gears , mine was the other way when i 1st got it not enough adjustment that when it all warmed up it was hard to get it in 1st and reverse , as I said just a thought and its ia bit easier to fiddle with that than take gearbox out in the 1st instance Update:
There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
Storer said:
Update:
There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
Silly question, But I suppose you have checked the torque on all the clutch bolts and that the friction surfaces are clean?There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
Storer said:
Hi Jonny
Yes it was cleaned with brake cleaner and torqued up as I assembled it but it had been used for a few miles with a very powerful engine before I purchased it, so I suspect it is bu**ered for the torque of the LS7. Probably OK for a standard LS2.
How is the race car?
Paul
Hi Paul,Yes it was cleaned with brake cleaner and torqued up as I assembled it but it had been used for a few miles with a very powerful engine before I purchased it, so I suspect it is bu**ered for the torque of the LS7. Probably OK for a standard LS2.
How is the race car?
Paul
The good news is that the new gearbox will be here in the next couple of weeks. We are also having the rear hubs modified to take stronger stubshafts and bigger bearings as we have had a spate of failures.
The bad news is that we retired from the Snetterton round due to an engine failure. The bottom end of cylinder 6 failed, destroying the block, crank, camshaft and sump, and the piston has also damaged the head. We are trying to scrape together the funds for a new engine (as there is nothing of consequence to rescue from this one) however we don't currently have line of site of when this will happen. We are have put our Westfield Aerorace up for sale to fund a new engine but obviously have to wait for this to sell first.
It never rains but it pours!!
macgtech said:
Hi Paul,
The good news is that the new gearbox will be here in the next couple of weeks. We are also having the rear hubs modified to take stronger stubshafts and bigger bearings as we have had a spate of failures.
The bad news is that we retired from the Snetterton round due to an engine failure. The bottom end of cylinder 6 failed, destroying the block, crank, camshaft and sump, and the piston has also damaged the head. We are trying to scrape together the funds for a new engine (as there is nothing of consequence to rescue from this one) however we don't currently have line of site of when this will happen. We are have put our Westfield Aerorace up for sale to fund a new engine but obviously have to wait for this to sell first.
It never rains but it pours!!
The good news is that the new gearbox will be here in the next couple of weeks. We are also having the rear hubs modified to take stronger stubshafts and bigger bearings as we have had a spate of failures.
The bad news is that we retired from the Snetterton round due to an engine failure. The bottom end of cylinder 6 failed, destroying the block, crank, camshaft and sump, and the piston has also damaged the head. We are trying to scrape together the funds for a new engine (as there is nothing of consequence to rescue from this one) however we don't currently have line of site of when this will happen. We are have put our Westfield Aerorace up for sale to fund a new engine but obviously have to wait for this to sell first.
It never rains but it pours!!
Have you been walking under ladders or something. You wouldn't have any luck if it wasn't for all the bad luck you have had!!
I feel for you. It is hard enough to win when a car works.
Any idea of the cause of the bottom end failure? I have the same engine so would like to know if there is a possible problem to be aware of.
Paul
Storer said:
Update:
There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
cant you install a longer rod??There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
Storer said:
Have you been walking under ladders or something. You wouldn't have any luck if it wasn't for all the bad luck you have had!!
I feel for you. It is hard enough to win when a car works.
Any idea of the cause of the bottom end failure? I have the same engine so would like to know if there is a possible problem to be aware of.
Paul
It appears that the rod itself failed, but its very difficult to tell. I don't think there is anything to worry about, I suspect the crash may have had an influence. The engine had very little running since so its more than likely the root cause.
Problem now is finding the budget for a new one!
V8Dom said:
Storer said:
Update:
There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
cant you install a longer rod??There is free play between fork and slave cylinder rod so it looks like the clutch is just not up to the torque. So out it must come when the Factory have a replacement in stock.
I can probably use the car to help run in the engine until the new clutch arrives.
My own fault to try and keep costs down.
Paul
There needs to be a bit of free play so that the clutch can fully engage/clamp. If there is no free play then the pressure plate will not be able exert full load on the friction plate.
Paul
Although you are on with resolving this Paul, for the future and others, there are UK and US companies able to replace /upgrade the diaphram in your existing unit.. So if your friction plate is not too worn/old during an engine upgrade, this offers a more economical option to full replacement with similar, improved capacity.
I am suffering from some minor confusion here. I am about to look at and if necessary replace my clutch which is slipping when engine reach power band in high gears. It has not done this before.
I understand that there needs to be a small amount of free play between the slave rod and the fork to allow full clamping. I also understand that the fork end will move towards the slave cylinder as the clutch wears.
In the past I have adjusted the rod on my clutch pedal to push the fork further to assist engaging gear particularly when the gearbox is cold.
If I have lost the free play between the fork and the slave then I understand that clamp force will be reduced. However will shortening the rod on the clutch pedal restore the free play at the slave?
From the above it seems that it should but I am not sure that it will. Obviously if slave piston is fully retracted then adjustment will not work.
I understand that there needs to be a small amount of free play between the slave rod and the fork to allow full clamping. I also understand that the fork end will move towards the slave cylinder as the clutch wears.
In the past I have adjusted the rod on my clutch pedal to push the fork further to assist engaging gear particularly when the gearbox is cold.
If I have lost the free play between the fork and the slave then I understand that clamp force will be reduced. However will shortening the rod on the clutch pedal restore the free play at the slave?
From the above it seems that it should but I am not sure that it will. Obviously if slave piston is fully retracted then adjustment will not work.
I understand that the pressure plate is always pushing the slave clyinder rod to its end position and there cannot much free play, however it could theoritically be that the rod is pushed against the end of the cylinder and then you would engage your clutch by screwing the cylinder on the gear box. Not to mention that this would be a quite tight fit.
This however should never happen with the orignal take cylinder, as the travel of the cylinder is determined by the mechanic of the whole assembly. So even with a complete worn out clutch disc your rod assemby should not touch the end of the cylinder.
With the clutch pedal adjustment you can minimize travel and control point of engagement but not really engage the clutch unless you have your foot on the pedal or a strong retracting spring installed. You could adjust it to a point where it is not fully engaging if the travel is not enough tough.
With clutch disc wearing out what will happen is that the pressure plate will move towards engine and therefore pushing back the rod of the take cylinder further back in the assembly as there is the fork that is hinged in the gear box.
I am ok with my LS7 and enforced clutch from the factory with a G50 and I did 6500km so far. Maybe your pressure plate is already tired and the spring force is not generating enough friction to avoid slipping.
This however should never happen with the orignal take cylinder, as the travel of the cylinder is determined by the mechanic of the whole assembly. So even with a complete worn out clutch disc your rod assemby should not touch the end of the cylinder.
With the clutch pedal adjustment you can minimize travel and control point of engagement but not really engage the clutch unless you have your foot on the pedal or a strong retracting spring installed. You could adjust it to a point where it is not fully engaging if the travel is not enough tough.
With clutch disc wearing out what will happen is that the pressure plate will move towards engine and therefore pushing back the rod of the take cylinder further back in the assembly as there is the fork that is hinged in the gear box.
I am ok with my LS7 and enforced clutch from the factory with a G50 and I did 6500km so far. Maybe your pressure plate is already tired and the spring force is not generating enough friction to avoid slipping.
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff