Light painting... How to use bulb time?

[Buzz word]

It's not rreally the time of year for this I guess but I have been meaning to get out and try it anyway. Last night I had a go at my first orb..



For a first time I don't mind the shape. The bit I would like to know about is how to expose for longer I think that was iso 100 30s f4 and upped a few EV in RAW. F4 was at the lens limit as it's just a kit 600d. I could bump the iso but I don't like the noise. I tried layering ...



I don't like that as the orb doesnt paint the floor too. It could have been done anywhere and just put there.

I watched a few tutorials online and people are using bulb mode. How though? I have no idea how much time has passed when i'm twirling or atleast not enough to be accurate and run back. Is there some sort of timer you can get to automate a bit?

[Simpo Two]

Wild guess - try using smallest aperture and ISO 100 and see what happens. Maybe the camera can do more than 30 secs that way.

Increasing ISO will go the wrong way, ie reduce exposure.

There will be some kind of IR remote control you can use, probably an expensive Canon one or a cheap generic one - no doubt a Canonista will be along soon with some links

[Crafty_]

You can get all sorts of fancy timer controls, but to start with you could try something like this :



Thats a Hama one, about £10-5, other makes are available. I have the one above, the button lets you auto focus and take a shot but also you can slide it upwards which "locks" the button - you can now let go and the shutter will stay open until you slide the button back down.
So, shutter in Bulb mode, slide the button up and you can have an exposure as long as you want it.

If you wanted a proper timer control there are loads of cheapy ones on amazon. I seem to remember reading about one in particular which was regarded as pretty good but was pretty reasonable on cost. Do a search on TP for intervalometer.

[Simpo Two]

Though if he's standing 20 feet away whirling a ball round his head he's going to need an IR/wireless version...

[Crafty_]

Simpo Two said:

Though if he's standing 20 feet away whirling a ball round his head he's going to need an IR/wireless version...

Yep, but I'm not sure the wireless ones have a lock function ? You can always have an assistant to help or failing that open the shutter, run in to position, do whatever and run back ? Probably only talking a couple of seconds on a long exposure, shouldn't hurt too much ?

[Buzz word]

Thanks guys, 30s seems to be the maximum pre timed amount whatever you do. The next step over that is bulb time which is better than I expected. There is a nice counter that displays on the screen. I have a IR remote the RC-6 copy. Which works well with it but I would never see the screen from any distance, the range is limiting too.

Intervalometer- this seems to be the word for the product I was looking for.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/NEEWER-Timer-Remote-Contro...

Perfect, set camera off run about like a nutter. Camera does it's thing. I have been meaning to try the star stuff too so it would be perfect for that too. I don't think I'd need wireless just a few seconds to delay to get in place. It was so quiet you could hear the shutter open and close.

[Stiglet80]

I am not sure if I have entirely misunderstood here but to get bulb mode you need to go into manual and reduce the shutter speed as far as possible until it says bulb mode, you will need to have a remote release to operate it as far as I have experienced there is no upper time limit. Apologies if I have misunderstood though.

[dibbly dobbler]

30 seconds is indeed the maximum unless on BULB mode.

Are you sure it's an intervalometer you want though ? Sounds more like you need a remote shutter release where you can lock down the trigger to give a long exposure. like this

Edited by dibbly dobbler on Sunday 20th May 17:16

[Silver Smudger]

I like this one!


IMG_5703 by neill_scog, on Flickr

[Oxygen2k10]

Light balls by Tonal Ranger, on Flickr

This was my attempt from a few weeks ago. I use a basic shutter release cable that I got from amazon. It has a lock on it so you can leave it open for as long as you like. If its really dark you don't really need to worry about over exposing, you can leave the shutter open for literally hours. For the shot above I just counted my rotations, two full circles and I was done I.e. 720 degrees.

Generally cameras can only do 30 seconds unless in bulb mode. Set your camera to bulb, select appropriate aperture, set 10 second timer, manual focus (i use a nice small aperture so focusing is easier), press and lock shutter remote, run around doing my stuff, release shutter. There's a timer in your camera when you're in bulb mode, take note if the time. If your shot is underexposed, either raise ISO, use a bigger aperture (lower f number) or simply leave the shutter open for longer.

Sorry for grammar, spelling, general retardation etc typing on my phone never quite goes to plan.

Cheers,
Alex

Edited by Oxygen2k10 on Sunday 20th May 17:36

Edited by Oxygen2k10 on Sunday 20th May 17:42

[FunkyNige]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RS-60E3-LCD-Timer-Remote...

I bought one of those from eBay for £20, gives you loads of control over the delay, length of exposure, multiple exposures, etc. Pretty certain you could set a 10s timer then 1 minute exposure, for example.

(no idea if that eBay shop is any good, it was just the first on the list!)

[Buzz word]

Thinking about it you guys are right. I could just use my RC-6 and change the technique. To expose the foreground more, not daylight bright more dusk. I experimented a bit and went up to ISO 1600 just to see what would happen. That's what 5 times longer so equivelant 8 min exposure all things being equal. The odd second here or there won't make a jot of differance. I have to get used to that idea I'm getting hung up on the idea it needs to be exactly however many mins and seconds which is why the intervalometer seemed good.

Thanks Silver Smudger. I had an idea in my head. I wasn't too sure about the result though.

Thanks oxygen, some good tips there. Focussing was a pain. I put it on AF shone a torch to the mid ground then set to manual and hoped for the best. I didn't concider the wide appature DOF thing just how to brighten it up more.

[Stiglet80]

If you are wanting to expose areas of your background (again I must be having one of those days as I don't seem to be following here) but use your light source to paint the item you want exposed?

[the_engineer]

What type/kind of light sources are you using - both for the balls and also the flowers and "stripes"?

Looking good

Thanks,

[Buzz word]

Stiglet80 said:

If you are wanting to expose areas of your background (again I must be having one of those days as I don't seem to be following here) but use your light source to paint the item you want exposed?

Sort of. In the good orb pics like Oxygens there is an area of light below that lights up on the floor. I like that as it referances the image. You get an idea where it is in the image, without it could have been done after in PS or be 3mm from the lens or 20m away. I think I need more light in the image so more exposure. There is probably an element of needing a brighter light too.

the_engineer said:

What type/kind of light sources are you using - both for the balls and also the flowers and "stripes"?

Looking good

Thanks,

Thanks, the balls were a led keyring on string with a peg clipped on to hold the button down. Most people use battery fairy lights taped together though. The advantage is you can turn the light on when you are spinning so you get nice lead in and out. I just don't have those yet. There seens to be a real skil getting the axis sorted too.
I used the keyring for the flowers too the push button works well for that. You just have to guess where you have drawn.
Stripes are a length of 5050 rgb LED strip. Check ebay for it. Amazing stuff. I just hooked it up to a 12v 3.2a home security battery as thats all the transformer supplied.

[pastrana72]

I just used a 10 second timer and then either 15 or 30 sec exposure on mine. orbs are cool, I also like freestyle stuff.

Here are a few of mine.







The last one is taken with the camera in the washing machine looking out.

[AndWhyNot]

An intervalometer or remote release is a great help for extended exposures. If your device doesn't have a visible timer, take a stopwatch or time each exposure on your phone.

Seems like you're lightpainting in a proper dark location. At wider apertures you can add your own light to add definition to the background (most light sources are ineffective for background lighting at narrow apertures) but don't underestimate the power of moonlight, which can bring daylight-esque brightness to your sky in as little as 30 seconds. Give it a couple of weeks until the moon phase is back in our favour.

Oxygen2k10 said:

Light balls by Tonal Ranger, on Flickr

Looks like three separate shots layered - one per orb? Good way to deal with the relative brightness of twilight.

[Oxygen2k10]

AndWhyNot said:

Looks like three separate shots layered - one per orb? Good way to deal with the relative brightness of twilight.

Yes indeedy, in hindsight I should of put the white orb in the centre with the two oranges either side but nevermind. I can never pull off multiple orbs in one shot, I usually end up bashing my self in the head with my torch on the second or third one ruining the shot!

[Simpo Two]

pastrana72 said:

I just used a 10 second timer and then either 15 or 30 sec exposure on mine. orbs are cool, I also like freestyle stuff.

Here are a few of mine.







The last one is taken with the camera in the washing machine looking out.

Blimey, impressive!

[Buzz word]

pastrana72 said:

I just used a 10 second timer and then either 15 or 30 sec exposure on mine. orbs are cool, I also like freestyle stuff.

Here are a few of mine.







The last one is taken with the camera in the washing machine looking out.

I have seen these before, wonderful stuff. I have been looking out for a colour changing strobing rod ever since. The washing machine one has me a bit fluomoxed as to what you used.