Vixen Rear Upright Seals

[stevmale]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 19 July 2012 at 16:39

[heightswitch]

stevmale said:

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Hi, rebuilding standard 2500 vixen uprights to run with a 180 bhp Essex v6 with a type5 box and cosworth diff , got the bearings but cannot find leather seals.
Considered welding ali plates to uprights to enclose casting , but they may distort.I have seen pictures on PHs ? as any body been sucessful.
Next will be rubber bushes or poly's etc.

just drill and tap 2 no M4 threads and screw the plate on..The main issue for this is corrosion protection of the pin going through the ally upright.

weak point of std upright lies with the pin, cotter pins and casting. also hub unit which is a TR6, especially if using a second hand re-furb unit.

Then their is the crush tubes which should be thrown away in favour of machined solid spacers.

N.

[Astacus]

I spent an age searching for the correct leather seals for this but in the end I was recommended to go for standard (nitrile?)oil seals.

I did eventually find leather seals for the S1 diff output shafts from this company

http://www.barnwell.co.uk

It was their type "L" seals

[thegamekeeper]

Maybe its my computer or your photo but those quill shafts look to be heat damaged by bearings running hot.Personally even if they haven,t been hot I wouldn,t use them, they are potentially 45 years old. Loadsa money on power and performance, invest some in safety. Wheels falling off is at best expensive and at worst painfull and at very worst , much worse,


I thought it was only Neil who had a leather fetish


TR6 hub units???????

[heightswitch]

thegamekeeper said:

Maybe its my computer or your photo but those quill shafts look to be heat damaged by bearings running hot.Personally even if they haven,t been hot I wouldn,t use them, they are potentially 45 years old. Loadsa money on power and performance, invest some in safety. Wheels falling off is at best expensive and at worst painfull and at very worst , much worse,


I thought it was only Neil who had a leather fetish

At work at mo steve so I can see text only, not pictures..

Advice for a 180hp vehicle is..

Strip everything down
beadblast uprights
Have crack tested

renew quills, machine up solid spacers, renew pivot rods with new EN14? pins

Re fit everything with new bearings and seals.

if you can afford 180hp you may even want to renew the uprights??

[heightswitch]

heightswitch said:

just drill and tap 2 no M4 threads and screw the plate on..The main issue for this is corrosion protection of the pin going through the ally upright.

weak point of std upright lies with the pin, cotter pins and casting. also hub unit which is a TR6, especially if using a second hand re-furb unit.

Then their is the crush tubes which should be thrown away in favour of machined solid spacers.



N.

Editing my own post here but I am now assuming a vixen chassis and quills...I have std, hybrid and TR6 based stuff I am restoring at mo so please forgive my confusion??

[Astacus]

heightswitch said:

if you can afford 180hp you may even want to renew the uprights??

If you can afford £400 for quill shafts, which was what I was quoted, then I imagine the uprights might not be a shock

[stevmale]

Just started to rebuild standard rear hubs and shaft but !
Will anybody supply uprated hubs any more and if so how much ,as i think these will not last when sprinting

[jpa]

Hi Steve, If you are talking about replacing the vixen rear end with uprated uprights, quill shafts and pivot bars then I got mine from Nigel Rueben. His are made to take the strain of full race Griffiths so should be more than man enough for your set up (and are probably over-kill for my crossflow!).

But then again, I was bitten by a broken pivot / upright casting so it was the only way I was ever going to get the missus back in the car after that incident!

The only work I had to do other than building them back up was that the top wishbone 'collar' that attaches the wishbone to the upright needed work. Nigels' uprights are more beefy at the top of the upright and so needed work to allow full movement of the suspension.

Cheers,
Paul.