stutter, splutter problem.
Discussion
My 4.3 Griff was running great for a change till about a week ago then after a long (150mile) drive, the following day, it seems to have had a rev limiter fitted at 3500rpm. worse when cold (violent jolt) and better when warm (like somebody has unplugged 4 plug leads) and at times almost un noticable although a bit flat on power. Plugs, leads cap and rotor all replaced 10 months ago. no visible splits to leads etc. Any ideas please???
Thanks, Clarky,
Driver and unproud owner of the 'comedy Griff'
Thanks, Clarky,
Driver and unproud owner of the 'comedy Griff'
I've also had the spooky rev limiter syndrome. More variable and less consistent than what you describe - it would notmally be at about 4500 - 5000 rpm.
My 4.3 was bought with an intermittent misfire - admittedly not as consistent or precisely described as yours, but I've done the following:
Remade all engine bay sensor connections and earths;
Replaced ignition leads, plug extenders, coil and vacuum pipes;
This seemed to fix things for 1500 miles, then it stuttered and stalled twice on the Mway recently. The gradual (ie over 10 or 20 seconds loss of power and eventual cut out) lead me to investigate the fuel pump wiring (engine runs weakly on residual line pressure for a bit once the pump's stopped). The loose fuse in the loom above the battery with the fuel pump and ecu relays (metal ones) was connecting badly to the two female spade connectors which 'held' it. I could even see scorching from what I presume was a sparking connection. One proper blade fuse holder (well 2 actually, there's another loose fuse in the loom which received the same treatment) later, and two new relays and a coolant temp sensor for good measure, and, fingers crossed, all is well.
>> Edited by griffter on Saturday 31st July 09:56
My 4.3 was bought with an intermittent misfire - admittedly not as consistent or precisely described as yours, but I've done the following:
Remade all engine bay sensor connections and earths;
Replaced ignition leads, plug extenders, coil and vacuum pipes;
This seemed to fix things for 1500 miles, then it stuttered and stalled twice on the Mway recently. The gradual (ie over 10 or 20 seconds loss of power and eventual cut out) lead me to investigate the fuel pump wiring (engine runs weakly on residual line pressure for a bit once the pump's stopped). The loose fuse in the loom above the battery with the fuel pump and ecu relays (metal ones) was connecting badly to the two female spade connectors which 'held' it. I could even see scorching from what I presume was a sparking connection. One proper blade fuse holder (well 2 actually, there's another loose fuse in the loom which received the same treatment) later, and two new relays and a coolant temp sensor for good measure, and, fingers crossed, all is well.
>> Edited by griffter on Saturday 31st July 09:56
seriously.
REPAIRED!!!!! After leads, cap, rotor, no joy. Tried different coil. No good. About to strip fuel system to peices when (dont ask me why) i removed the air filter and connecting trunking from the flow meter. Looked inside the trunking at the meter end and the inner lining was all loose and floppy "Got you, you B$%&^rd!!" was heard to be shouted and a temporary repair of an aluminium sleeve inside cured it and significantly improved performance. This had obviously been getting worse and worse for months. She goes like the wind now!
The comedy Griff lives!!
The comedy Griff lives!!
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