Bleeding Clutch
Discussion
Put the car back together, starts, but I have to press the clutch all the way to the floor to select gears. I bled the clutch by have one person plreeing the pedal and one under the car opening and closing the bleed nipple. Is this the best way or is it better to use something like an EziBleed system? I am at the moment assuming that there is air in the system.
Each time i have bled the clutch on mine, i have had the devil of a job getting all the air out. Despite getting the nose of the car high and pulling a fair amount of fluid through, i have always felt it was not fully bled.
I have just replaced the old copper pipe with a nice new braided flexi pipe. I set about bleeding it and sure enough struggled getting the air out. Right i thought a different approach was required. I unbolted the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and then bled it from the other end. Top off master cylinder and with my finger slowly pushed the piston of the slave cylinder all the way in, let it out and then repeated a few times. each time nice big bubbles of air came out the master cylinder until no more bubbles. Didnt take many goes.
Firstly this is obviously easier with a flexi pipe as i could position the slave cylinder vertically, nose to the floor therefore allowing air to naturally go to the bleed end and back up the pipe.
Secondly if anyone does attempt this way, and i can recommend it, when you first remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing quickly get a finger on the end of the piston to stop it flying out and covering you in fluid. I wonder how i know this
. Also have someone keep an eye on the master cylinder to wipe any spillages as the bubbles pop out.
Result a perfectly bled clutch in no time at all.
I have just replaced the old copper pipe with a nice new braided flexi pipe. I set about bleeding it and sure enough struggled getting the air out. Right i thought a different approach was required. I unbolted the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and then bled it from the other end. Top off master cylinder and with my finger slowly pushed the piston of the slave cylinder all the way in, let it out and then repeated a few times. each time nice big bubbles of air came out the master cylinder until no more bubbles. Didnt take many goes.
Firstly this is obviously easier with a flexi pipe as i could position the slave cylinder vertically, nose to the floor therefore allowing air to naturally go to the bleed end and back up the pipe.
Secondly if anyone does attempt this way, and i can recommend it, when you first remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing quickly get a finger on the end of the piston to stop it flying out and covering you in fluid. I wonder how i know this
. Also have someone keep an eye on the master cylinder to wipe any spillages as the bubbles pop out.Result a perfectly bled clutch in no time at all.
You cannot beat ..... foot down on clutch nipple open close nipple release pedal at the same time as keeping an eye on the res and repeating a number of times to bleed the system (preferably with an helper) its the old school way of bleeding and just works i have broke into the hydraulic clutches on at least 4 TVR's and never had trouble bleeding a dry system without jacking the car up, removing the slave, standing on your head, whatever hope this helps 
hope this helps 
Pink_Floyd said:
I am at the moment assuming that there is air in the system.
(shrug) Easiest SURE way is to use a clear tube and a glass jar. The only reason we do all this rigorous pumping, holding and bleeder opening/closing (or buy exotic beelders and tools) is to prevent air from being drawn back in in the bleding process. Simply eliminate that possibility 1. Place the right spanner on the bleeder
2. Squeeze a clear tube is squeezed over the bleeder
3. fill the jar 1/2 way with clean brake fluid.
4. Submerge the other end of the tube in the fluid
5. open the belleder with the spanner and pump leisurely until the bubbles in the jar stop. Then tight the bleeder. That's it! (The first few bubbles will be the air in the tube). WATCHPOINT: Make sure the resevoir at the master remains filled during the process.
This method allows you to SEE whether there is any remaining air at each bleeding point and ascertain the clarity of the fluid. Bad fluid is ineffective.
Tried the 2 person pumping method, but the pedal still goes down a long way before I feel any resistance, I am assuming that there is air stuck in the top of the clutch pipe, it seems a bit odd to have the pipe come throught the bulk head and then go up and over before going down to the cylinder. Looks like a prime place to get air locks.
plushuit said:
(shrug) Easiest SURE way is to use a clear tube and a glass jar. The only reason we do all this rigorous pumping, holding and bleeder opening/closing (or buy exotic beelders and tools) is to prevent air from being drawn back in in the bleding process. Simply eliminate that possibility
1. Place the right spanner on the bleeder
2. Squeeze a clear tube is squeezed over the bleeder
3. fill the jar 1/2 way with clean brake fluid.
4. Submerge the other end of the tube in the fluid
5. open the belleder with the spanner and pump leisurely until the bubbles in the jar stop. Then tight the bleeder. That's it! (The first few bubbles will be the air in the tube). WATCHPOINT: Make sure the resevoir at the master remains filled during the process.
This method allows you to SEE whether there is any remaining air at each bleeding point and ascertain the clarity of the fluid. Bad fluid is ineffective.
I am always suspicious of air being pulled back in past the threads doing it this way.1. Place the right spanner on the bleeder
2. Squeeze a clear tube is squeezed over the bleeder
3. fill the jar 1/2 way with clean brake fluid.
4. Submerge the other end of the tube in the fluid
5. open the belleder with the spanner and pump leisurely until the bubbles in the jar stop. Then tight the bleeder. That's it! (The first few bubbles will be the air in the tube). WATCHPOINT: Make sure the resevoir at the master remains filled during the process.
This method allows you to SEE whether there is any remaining air at each bleeding point and ascertain the clarity of the fluid. Bad fluid is ineffective.
carsy said:
Chris, do as i did, it doesnt take long and my pedal in now perfect, no air at all. I know you have a copper pipe but i`m sure it will be doable.
Tried this and each time i pushed the piston back in I got bubbles out in the master cylinder resevoir, great I thought but this happened 20 times plus and the fluid never went down. Resevoir looks to be the same level and the pedal feels the same.Does this suggest that the seals in the clutch master cylinder have gone? if so any one knows of a replacement kit for the master cylinder and whilst I am at it might as well do the slave, so if you know a kit for that one as well.
I have just bled mine after replacing the clutch the standard way. Two people one pumping the clutch and reservoir checking the other under the car spanner on nipple, pipe on nipple, end of pipe in glass jar 1/2 filled with fluid.
Undo nipple shout down, man in the car pushes the pedal down and shouts down man under the car does up nipple and shouts up, man in the car lets the pedal up. each action in done slowly about 1 second for the travel up or down. You will only get 2 pumps of the pedal before the reservoir needs topping up. If you suck air you will have to start again. It should only take four pumps.
Undo nipple shout down, man in the car pushes the pedal down and shouts down man under the car does up nipple and shouts up, man in the car lets the pedal up. each action in done slowly about 1 second for the travel up or down. You will only get 2 pumps of the pedal before the reservoir needs topping up. If you suck air you will have to start again. It should only take four pumps.
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