Front shocks anyone??
Discussion
Some very sensible advice for such a powerful car capable of eating virtually everything onsale up to £650k including Ferrari, but the guy asked what shockers do you feel are up to the job?
I have no problem with refitting what was original however is there other gear which is cost effective?
Chris547
I have no problem with refitting what was original however is there other gear which is cost effective?
Chris547
yeh - all four corners
got them from a mail order co in devon - good price
can adjust the ride height and the damping
when I spoke to Joolz at Joopseed he stated they were consistently the best he tests - at a fair price - yu have to pay a bit more to getthe nitron type effect - better but how much better?
proven were the company
tell em North Yorks sent you!
got them from a mail order co in devon - good price
can adjust the ride height and the damping
when I spoke to Joolz at Joopseed he stated they were consistently the best he tests - at a fair price - yu have to pay a bit more to getthe nitron type effect - better but how much better?
proven were the company
tell em North Yorks sent you!
gemini said:
yeh - all four corners
got them from a mail order co in devon - good price
can adjust the ride height and the damping
when I spoke to Joolz at Joopseed he stated they were consistently the best he tests - at a fair price - yu have to pay a bit more to getthe nitron type effect - better but how much better?
proven were the company
tell em North Yorks sent you!
teehee slight misquote, but the sentiment is there .. what i said was thay when they're tested they perform more consistenly than the likes of gaz and leda's budget offerings .. it's still a budget damper don't forget, but for the price they can't be beaten in my eyes and certainly perfect for anyone who's not a track day hero.
Fit, adjust, enjoy, and feel good about the 100s of pounds saved over TVR's own dampers ..
Could someone please suggest a complete suspension design for a 93 4.3 litre Chimaera 30,000 miles which has explosive acceleration but seems a bit ponderous and wanders at speed. Ror road touring not track. When loaded why does it keep kitting the bump stops. What can I do to allow me to bring home a few cases of wine.
I thought at first the springs had shortened through age however now I am not so sure. Front measures height to wheel arch 635 and rear 665. Current thoughts are-
Tyres: Toyo Proxy R or Bridgestone so3? Size 205/55/15 Front and 225/50/16 rear.
Shockers: Bilstein?, AVO?, Nitron?
Springs: Rate? Progressive rate? Length? Supplier?
Bushes: TVR Rubber? Poly? Are ther different types of Poly
Adustable Height and/or Damping stiffness? Any comments on whether or not non adjustable is good enough for a road touring car?
The car does not seem very nimble so what makes it feel sharper from lock to lock? Lack of power steering does seem to make the car a bit wooden in tight situations?
Comments that consider value for money and longevity rather than just what is the ultimate appreciated.
I thought at first the springs had shortened through age however now I am not so sure. Front measures height to wheel arch 635 and rear 665. Current thoughts are-
Tyres: Toyo Proxy R or Bridgestone so3? Size 205/55/15 Front and 225/50/16 rear.
Shockers: Bilstein?, AVO?, Nitron?
Springs: Rate? Progressive rate? Length? Supplier?
Bushes: TVR Rubber? Poly? Are ther different types of Poly
Adustable Height and/or Damping stiffness? Any comments on whether or not non adjustable is good enough for a road touring car?
The car does not seem very nimble so what makes it feel sharper from lock to lock? Lack of power steering does seem to make the car a bit wooden in tight situations?
Comments that consider value for money and longevity rather than just what is the ultimate appreciated.
For that sort of use you probably want to stay close to the original geometry and spring/damper rates. Rather than uprating the whole thing it might be worth just checking the state of the current setup and fixing any problems you have. For example knackered dampers could cause instability, poor steering response and hitting the bump stops. If you haven't had the geometry checked recently it's unlikely that everything is still right after ten years. What state are the bushes and ball joints in? If I were you I would take it to a good TVR specialist and ask them to investigate the problem.
Looking at your present mileage your car will probably have the original springs/dampers from new.
I would guess that the dampers are way past their best hence the bottoming out.
If you're not in a position to be able to inspect the suspension components yourself you have no alternative but to seek outside help.
As well as the dampers, the bushes will probably be worn out unless you know they have been replaced at some time recently. A tell tale sign is usually the fitting of black nylon washers at either side of the bushes. This prevents the rubber in the bush from being pushed out in use.
I once fitted a set of AVO's and didn't like them one bit, but i beleive they have moved on slightly since and sound like a worth while investment, if not for great handling characteristics, but value for money.
I would guess that the dampers are way past their best hence the bottoming out.
If you're not in a position to be able to inspect the suspension components yourself you have no alternative but to seek outside help.
As well as the dampers, the bushes will probably be worn out unless you know they have been replaced at some time recently. A tell tale sign is usually the fitting of black nylon washers at either side of the bushes. This prevents the rubber in the bush from being pushed out in use.
I once fitted a set of AVO's and didn't like them one bit, but i beleive they have moved on slightly since and sound like a worth while investment, if not for great handling characteristics, but value for money.
Thanks Green V8S and Ian8542 for solid advice. I live in Stanmore and nearest TVR is at Barnet. Unfortunately they charge £75 per hour. Can you recommend a specialist around Watford or Stanmore general area.
My motive was really to try and understand the issues in more detail. I have the bible and it does usually recommend sticking to standard TVR bits.
I do realise one thing because the car is so powerful it will place a lot of strain on the parts so the driver also needs to have an understanding. Its not just a question of just passing it over to the specialist.
I will consult an expert and with a general instruction just to replace only what is worn or past its best.
I have been moving the steering about like the racers do to warm the tyres up but at 20mph and I think the wandering is associated more with the steering rather than the suspension. Also tried moving the steering wheel up to its highest position and down to its lowest point and it does wander less when the steering wheel is lowest. At least this is a dynamic test rather that pulling at things when the car is at rest.
Any reccommendations on a local specialist?
My motive was really to try and understand the issues in more detail. I have the bible and it does usually recommend sticking to standard TVR bits.
I do realise one thing because the car is so powerful it will place a lot of strain on the parts so the driver also needs to have an understanding. Its not just a question of just passing it over to the specialist.
I will consult an expert and with a general instruction just to replace only what is worn or past its best.
I have been moving the steering about like the racers do to warm the tyres up but at 20mph and I think the wandering is associated more with the steering rather than the suspension. Also tried moving the steering wheel up to its highest position and down to its lowest point and it does wander less when the steering wheel is lowest. At least this is a dynamic test rather that pulling at things when the car is at rest.
Any reccommendations on a local specialist?
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