Discussion
camel_landy said:
Brilliant cars... Get yourself a TDV6 Auto with as big spec as possible (SE / HSE). 
Pretty reliable. The only things of note are that EGR valves can stick and they can be heavy on anti-roll bar bushes. Otherwise it's the usual things to look for, service history, etc...
M
thanks CamelL - I'm not really up on the specification levels and engine typesPretty reliable. The only things of note are that EGR valves can stick and they can be heavy on anti-roll bar bushes. Otherwise it's the usual things to look for, service history, etc...
M
is the RDV6 the 2.7? What are the specification pack differences?
thanks!
All later D3s are the 2.7 V6.
HSE is generally best, however there are a lot of options so a good SE is ok.
Running costs are higher. but then it is a lot of car. Lots of stuff can be done DIY if that way inclined.
Things to check for are:-
Suspension, clonks etc are usually bushes, also make sure it goes up and down a few times to test the compressor.
Timing belt change is at 7yrs/105k.
Good support sites are Disco3Club & Disco3, plenty of reading there for pre purchase.
Go get a good one and enjoy it.
HTH
HSE is generally best, however there are a lot of options so a good SE is ok.
Running costs are higher. but then it is a lot of car. Lots of stuff can be done DIY if that way inclined.
Things to check for are:-
Suspension, clonks etc are usually bushes, also make sure it goes up and down a few times to test the compressor.
Timing belt change is at 7yrs/105k.
Good support sites are Disco3Club & Disco3, plenty of reading there for pre purchase.
Go get a good one and enjoy it.
HTH
07 model's can't get the EGR valves blanked, welcome to modern diesels.
The handbrake is a known issue if not cleaned and adjusted properly.
Tailgate lock's can stick/break. Known issue as well.
Clutch could be user error but personally, a clutch on a 2.8 ton car does not go. Auto only for me.
Can't comment on the wiring but i'm sure the wiring in the front arches can come loose and chaff.
OP. Be aware they will need bushes, ball joints, wheel bearings etc from 70-100k as they tend to fail in that mileage region. The 105k service gets the belts done as well, that can be pricey so shop around as some main dealers were doing it for £500 which is a good price for it.
Buy an 04-06 model HSE auto, blank the EGR's and get the diff and gearbox fluid flushed. Don't skimp on servicing, parts and tyres and you will have a superb car.
The handbrake is a known issue if not cleaned and adjusted properly.
Tailgate lock's can stick/break. Known issue as well.
Clutch could be user error but personally, a clutch on a 2.8 ton car does not go. Auto only for me.
Can't comment on the wiring but i'm sure the wiring in the front arches can come loose and chaff.
OP. Be aware they will need bushes, ball joints, wheel bearings etc from 70-100k as they tend to fail in that mileage region. The 105k service gets the belts done as well, that can be pricey so shop around as some main dealers were doing it for £500 which is a good price for it.
Buy an 04-06 model HSE auto, blank the EGR's and get the diff and gearbox fluid flushed. Don't skimp on servicing, parts and tyres and you will have a superb car.
Gazzab said:
You can blank them but engine management light will stay on (which is now an mot fail afaik).
IIRC - As long as you blank them BEFORE you develop a fault, you don't get an engine management warning. If you wait for a fault before blanking, you end up having to fit a new EGR to clear it!!!M
The main dealer I worked at, would rip the customer off for both EGR's when only one was at fault.
They charge about 3hours labour to replace both EGR valves and unfortunately, it does take about that length of time. But as a private job I would do it for £40 a side (+parts) as I can do them in 2 hours - only thing I can't do it obviously diagnose which one with the computer, or erase the faults.
Lower front arm bushes wear prematurely, as do the ball joints. A quick stamp on the brakes between 5-10mph will produce a loud clonking noise if the bushes are worn.
They are prone bad tyre wear unless tyre pressures are frequently checked.
As others have said, rear parking brake modules do fail. Often.
Rear track control arm ball joints also suffer from excessive play.
ARB bushes never wear out, but the ARC-BAR bushes do. This causes a rattling/knocking noise over un-even ground at low speed. Make sure they are replaced with new clamps and bolts and are torqued correctly - I've only seen 2 tech's torque these down correctly in my time working at LR.
Rear, lower boot cables and catch can fail - usually about the same time.
If one has been replaced without the other, question why.
Transfer boxes do leak...from the casing itself. Check this out.
Check the front and rear arc-bar's for leaking also. They DO fail! (I've replaced over 10 front arc-bar's myself)
Front diff output seals, mostly on the N/S can weep - check for this.
check for any external damage for the compressor casing. Located infront of the N/S/R wheel, a lot of idiots try and jack the car up on the plastic casing to change the wheel (AA/RAC/other garages included) and this can damage the compressor/mounts/pipes/exhaust etc).
I'll be honest, I hate the effing things. Be careful!
They charge about 3hours labour to replace both EGR valves and unfortunately, it does take about that length of time. But as a private job I would do it for £40 a side (+parts) as I can do them in 2 hours - only thing I can't do it obviously diagnose which one with the computer, or erase the faults.
Lower front arm bushes wear prematurely, as do the ball joints. A quick stamp on the brakes between 5-10mph will produce a loud clonking noise if the bushes are worn.
They are prone bad tyre wear unless tyre pressures are frequently checked.
As others have said, rear parking brake modules do fail. Often.
Rear track control arm ball joints also suffer from excessive play.
ARB bushes never wear out, but the ARC-BAR bushes do. This causes a rattling/knocking noise over un-even ground at low speed. Make sure they are replaced with new clamps and bolts and are torqued correctly - I've only seen 2 tech's torque these down correctly in my time working at LR.
Rear, lower boot cables and catch can fail - usually about the same time.
If one has been replaced without the other, question why.
Transfer boxes do leak...from the casing itself. Check this out.
Check the front and rear arc-bar's for leaking also. They DO fail! (I've replaced over 10 front arc-bar's myself)
Front diff output seals, mostly on the N/S can weep - check for this.
check for any external damage for the compressor casing. Located infront of the N/S/R wheel, a lot of idiots try and jack the car up on the plastic casing to change the wheel (AA/RAC/other garages included) and this can damage the compressor/mounts/pipes/exhaust etc).
I'll be honest, I hate the effing things. Be careful!
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