A big thank you to previous owner! Now learning to solder...
Discussion
Settled in for the afternoon to remove the dash top: Tools ready, torch ready, bible read, pockets emptied, thought it might take an hour or two.
The previous owner was a star and had replaced all nuts with homemade wing nuts! Only took 15 mins and then a further hour to swap all the dash gubbins.
The only thing I can't work out what to do is move the one light I need to. The circuit board won't fit through the hole:
Do I need to get a soldering iron and try to melt the two wee pins out of the solder on the board and then resolder once on the new dash? I've never soldered before, would this be possible for a novice like me?
I have now finished cleaning the engine so just need to get the new clutch on, refit the gearbox, drop into the chassis. Stll waiting for the new chassis (drums fingers) I'm now itching to get everything refitted!
d2t
The previous owner was a star and had replaced all nuts with homemade wing nuts! Only took 15 mins and then a further hour to swap all the dash gubbins.
The only thing I can't work out what to do is move the one light I need to. The circuit board won't fit through the hole:
Do I need to get a soldering iron and try to melt the two wee pins out of the solder on the board and then resolder once on the new dash? I've never soldered before, would this be possible for a novice like me?
I have now finished cleaning the engine so just need to get the new clutch on, refit the gearbox, drop into the chassis. Stll waiting for the new chassis (drums fingers) I'm now itching to get everything refitted!
d2t
Edited by drive2tractors on Thursday 31st May 21:18
Dead easy to remove, touch the pins with a soldering iron and when melted pull the pins free, leaving the solder to harden again. When putting back re-heat the solder and push the pins back through and let it harden. make sure there is a clear gap between the pins, i.e no solder touching. You might need a little extra solder wire but I haven't needed any before.
Nice dash though
Nice dash though
When unsoldering something, it is usually easier if you melt a small blob of solder onto the tip of your soldering iron and then apply that to the joint you're trying to melt. It sounds counterintuitive to apply more solder, but the molten blob conducts the heat into the solid joint and melts it instantly.
You may also want to get yourself a solder sucker: a cylindrical metal thing a bit larger than a pen, with a spring loaded piston inside and a nozzle on the end. You prime the piston, melt the solder you want to remove, then put the nozzle up close to it and release the catch; the piston pings back and sucks the molten solder with it - which instantly resolidifies. Using one of these always makes me smile, because it's such a brilliantly simple device. It'll help you clean up any excess bits of solder left behind.
Personally I'd remove all the old solder and resolder it afresh. IMHO, trying to reuse the old solder runs the risk of ending up with a weak joint with dirt and oxide in it. You also need an excuse to play with the solder sucker.
One other tip: make sure you mark which pin is + and which is - on the LED. You must reconnect it the same way otherwise it won't work.
You may also want to get yourself a solder sucker: a cylindrical metal thing a bit larger than a pen, with a spring loaded piston inside and a nozzle on the end. You prime the piston, melt the solder you want to remove, then put the nozzle up close to it and release the catch; the piston pings back and sucks the molten solder with it - which instantly resolidifies. Using one of these always makes me smile, because it's such a brilliantly simple device. It'll help you clean up any excess bits of solder left behind.
Personally I'd remove all the old solder and resolder it afresh. IMHO, trying to reuse the old solder runs the risk of ending up with a weak joint with dirt and oxide in it. You also need an excuse to play with the solder sucker.
One other tip: make sure you mark which pin is + and which is - on the LED. You must reconnect it the same way otherwise it won't work.
Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Friday 1st June 06:34
Thanks for all the tips, I'll have to get myself an iron this weekend and a solder pump!
Now the dash top is off I can see the nasty little rf aerial that sits on too of the dash under the window. Where does everyone else have their aerial? Is there a standard place for it?
The metal heater pipes in the footwell look in a parlous state. Do you think I can replace them with heater hose or are new sets available?
d2t
Now the dash top is off I can see the nasty little rf aerial that sits on too of the dash under the window. Where does everyone else have their aerial? Is there a standard place for it?
The metal heater pipes in the footwell look in a parlous state. Do you think I can replace them with heater hose or are new sets available?
d2t
Has the LED been glued to the housing.
It should just pull out the same as all the other ones. The remove spring clip which looks loose and take housing from the front.
To refit its reverse, insert housing fit spring clip and push the LED and board back in place.
1/2 hour to do them all.
Neil
It should just pull out the same as all the other ones. The remove spring clip which looks loose and take housing from the front.
To refit its reverse, insert housing fit spring clip and push the LED and board back in place.
1/2 hour to do them all.
Neil
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