Windscreen Washers
Discussion
The drivers side screen washer has packed up. I have pulled out the plug where the washer tube disappears in the mesh below the windscreen to discover that there is a length of clear hose on the other side which is no longer attached to anything!!
I assume therefore that the hose has come off some sort of "T" connection where the hose from the washer resevoir and pump divides to the two screen washers.
But how do I get at the "T" connection to reattach the hose? Is this a dashboard out job or is there some clever way of getting at it? The car is a late 2000 (manufacture) Chimaera 450.
My real question is can I repair this myself or would it be more sensible to get a dealer/specialist to sort it out. If I can do it myself.....how.....assuming a reasonable level of mechanical skills and a reasonable collection of tools.
I assume therefore that the hose has come off some sort of "T" connection where the hose from the washer resevoir and pump divides to the two screen washers.
But how do I get at the "T" connection to reattach the hose? Is this a dashboard out job or is there some clever way of getting at it? The car is a late 2000 (manufacture) Chimaera 450.
My real question is can I repair this myself or would it be more sensible to get a dealer/specialist to sort it out. If I can do it myself.....how.....assuming a reasonable level of mechanical skills and a reasonable collection of tools.
This is a dashboard out job I'm afraid - you need to take the dash off & then remove a fibreglass panel which should be there on a 2000 car. (If it isn't, you need to cut an access panel)
Behind this are the squirter tubes. It is worth removing all the tubes, clipping a few mm off the ends & then gluing with a blob of superglue so that it doesn't happen again.
It's not that hard to do, you just need to take extreme care that you don't damage the wooden instrument panel, or let any of the 3 dash bolts that hold the leather dash top come into contact with any leather, as they may mark/rip it.
cheers,
Craig
Behind this are the squirter tubes. It is worth removing all the tubes, clipping a few mm off the ends & then gluing with a blob of superglue so that it doesn't happen again.
It's not that hard to do, you just need to take extreme care that you don't damage the wooden instrument panel, or let any of the 3 dash bolts that hold the leather dash top come into contact with any leather, as they may mark/rip it.
cheers,
Craig
Craig, many thanks for the info sounds like you have done this before! One last question, how do you remove the dashboard? Are there some form of retaining bolts behind the dashboard and if so how many and approximately where are they. Sorry to be a pain but this is the only part of the job that bothers me.....don't want to damage the dash.....John.
Instructions on how to do this are on www.motion-lotion.co.uk -- and if you search, there are regular discussions on this topic.
>> Edited by manek on Friday 7th June 15:33
>> Edited by manek on Friday 7th June 15:33
Wimps all of you. You try taking a Griff dash out. All you Chimpette/Chimisabi/ChimWilde/Chimandgetitifyouthinkyourehardenough/Chimaera* owners don't know how lucky you are. Three bolts and lift the top off. Bah. Luxury
Steve
*delete as applicable
>> Edited by shpub on Friday 7th June 15:52
Steve
*delete as applicable
>> Edited by shpub on Friday 7th June 15:52
I had the same thing happen to me so have been through it all - it is a pain in the @rse but do-able and quite satisfying once you've fixed it and put it back together!!
Couple of tips - on my 2000 Chimaera one of the securing bolts is not where you think it should be. Follow the instructions in the web site referenced below, I used this and Steve Heath's book and managed to figure it out after a bit of fiddling around and lying on my back in the footwell! As I say, the only difference was the vertical bolt on the passenger side was further to the right (i.e. nearer the drivers side) that in the photos. It took me a while to find it, but once you do it's not too hard to undo the nut.
Also, if you are going to completely remove the dash rather than just lever it up from the passenger side, make sure you fiddle around and undo the locking nut on the drivers side bolt. This allows you to get more 'play' and less chance of knackering your instrument panel trying to get it off.
Once you have the dash off, removal of the 'letterbox' panel will give you access to the washer pipes and T-piece. I used some tape to make sure they don't come off again - probably not the most elegant but has worked for me so far.
If you do decide to do it, just take your time and do things slowly, I started getting frustrated and almost ended up costing myself more by getting heavy handed.
Good luck
Couple of tips - on my 2000 Chimaera one of the securing bolts is not where you think it should be. Follow the instructions in the web site referenced below, I used this and Steve Heath's book and managed to figure it out after a bit of fiddling around and lying on my back in the footwell! As I say, the only difference was the vertical bolt on the passenger side was further to the right (i.e. nearer the drivers side) that in the photos. It took me a while to find it, but once you do it's not too hard to undo the nut.
Also, if you are going to completely remove the dash rather than just lever it up from the passenger side, make sure you fiddle around and undo the locking nut on the drivers side bolt. This allows you to get more 'play' and less chance of knackering your instrument panel trying to get it off.
Once you have the dash off, removal of the 'letterbox' panel will give you access to the washer pipes and T-piece. I used some tape to make sure they don't come off again - probably not the most elegant but has worked for me so far.
If you do decide to do it, just take your time and do things slowly, I started getting frustrated and almost ended up costing myself more by getting heavy handed.
Good luck
All, I need some more HELP!!!! I have removed the top of the dash....certainly was good fun....I've got an appointment to get my back pulled straight and the skin put back on my wrists!! I can now see the "letterbox" access panel but....it is pop-riveted on at each corner and there is a velcro strip running along the front of it with two electronic boxes attached. The first boxes is the heater control and I have removed this. The second boxes has a label on it that reads "Removal Cancels Gaurantee". I can't feel anything obvious behind the label so am wondering if this is the trembler for the alarm or something i.e. if you disturb it you bugger the gaurantee.
Two questions;
1. Is it OK to remove this box from the velcro strip?
2. How do I get the "letterbox" open as I can't see an obvious way of removing the rivets with very little space for tools?
Has anyone out there tackled this particular problem and how did you do it?
John.
Two questions;
1. Is it OK to remove this box from the velcro strip?
2. How do I get the "letterbox" open as I can't see an obvious way of removing the rivets with very little space for tools?
Has anyone out there tackled this particular problem and how did you do it?
John.
quote:
All, I need some more HELP!!!! I have removed the top of the dash....certainly was good fun....I've got an appointment to get my back pulled straight and the skin put back on my wrists!! I can now see the "letterbox" access panel but....it is pop-riveted on at each corner and there is a velcro strip running along the front of it with two electronic boxes attached. The first boxes is the heater control and I have removed this. The second boxes has a label on it that reads "Removal Cancels Gaurantee". I can't feel anything obvious behind the label so am wondering if this is the trembler for the alarm or something i.e. if you disturb it you bugger the gaurantee.
Two questions;
1. Is it OK to remove this box from the velcro strip?
2. How do I get the "letterbox" open as I can't see an obvious way of removing the rivets with very little space for tools?
Has anyone out there tackled this particular problem and how did you do it?
John.
Hi John,
Maybe that label just means that you can't dismantle the box, rather than move it from the velcro. Anyway if you want to fix the squirter, you will need to get access, so I don't see you have much choice (your car must be out of warranty anyway, or you'd be getting the garage to do this for you)
You are going to have to drill out the rivets (mine was screwed in with self-tappers). To gain access, sounds like you will have to remove the walnut fascia & also all the gubbins behind it. There are a few ribbon connectors that you need to take off - make sure you photograph or mark where everything goes.
At this stage mine looked like this:
After you've got the access panel, you should be able to see the squirter tube & it should look like this:
does yours look similar?
cheers,
Craig
Yee-haa, job done. Drilled out the rivets as suggested and super glued all three hose connections on the "T" joint so hopefully won't need to get back in there again.
All went back together without too much swearing and shouting....dash top was a lot easier going back on than coming off.
Craig and everyone else who provided ideas and help, many thanks it gave me quite a buzz when it was all back together.
John.
All went back together without too much swearing and shouting....dash top was a lot easier going back on than coming off.
Craig and everyone else who provided ideas and help, many thanks it gave me quite a buzz when it was all back together.
John.
Hi John,
Nice one! Glad to be of some help....
I have sneaking suspicion that the newer (2000 on?) Chimaeras are more prone to the tubes dropping off - the wiper mechanism seems to wiggle the tubes slightly from behind the bulkhead - might be due to the new internal position of the wiper motor perhaps. Still, it's probably a small price to pay for a (hopefully) more reliable wiper motor.
cheers,
Craig
P.S. If you haven't already, you probably want to revisit the outside openings under the windscreen where the squirters leave the body & put some black mastic around them, as it is surprising how much water can dribble down there.
Nice one! Glad to be of some help....
I have sneaking suspicion that the newer (2000 on?) Chimaeras are more prone to the tubes dropping off - the wiper mechanism seems to wiggle the tubes slightly from behind the bulkhead - might be due to the new internal position of the wiper motor perhaps. Still, it's probably a small price to pay for a (hopefully) more reliable wiper motor.
cheers,
Craig
P.S. If you haven't already, you probably want to revisit the outside openings under the windscreen where the squirters leave the body & put some black mastic around them, as it is surprising how much water can dribble down there.
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