Discussion
Anyone know where to get them.
My pssaenger side rear is out by 2 degrees.
Took her to wheels in motion (chesham) to check alignment etc.
Front is in excellent order, but as i say, rear pass is out.
Would anyone have pics too as i know where they go, but would love to confirm (brake end of the shaft) and how hard a job is it.
Chap seems to think i will need up to 8mm of shim ??
Thoughts my educated friends !!
Gavlaaaaar
My pssaenger side rear is out by 2 degrees.
Took her to wheels in motion (chesham) to check alignment etc.
Front is in excellent order, but as i say, rear pass is out.
Would anyone have pics too as i know where they go, but would love to confirm (brake end of the shaft) and how hard a job is it.
Chap seems to think i will need up to 8mm of shim ??
Thoughts my educated friends !!
Gavlaaaaar
GV said:
The shims are mounted between the driveshaft and diff coupling which should be straight forward to replace although would take an hour or so each side in terms of labour costs....
Thought so.How though would i drop the shaft off the bolts as they cannot be pulled out, as they are obstructed by the brake assembly.
I mean the nuts are "shaft side". would the entire shaft need to be removed ? and if so....how do i go about that ??
Not too up on rear ends !!
Gavin
you can undo the 4 nuts on the drive shaft and work the drive shaft off to add or remove shims it may need a bit of a hand to get it to come i got new shims and the new full steel lock nuts there from S C PARTS GROUP LTD 01293 847202 you will have to tell them its for a xjs/xj6 salsbury diff as they do parts mg mini jag aston range rover ect.
Edited by barrington on Saturday 9th June 21:21
Yeah - as you are trailing arm you can quite easily remove the bottom shock mount and the bottom link at the diff end, then it will be much easier to get the d/s off.
Did your man calculate from the geometry how many shims you need to add? Or maybe one of the racers knows the formula?
Did your man calculate from the geometry how many shims you need to add? Or maybe one of the racers knows the formula?
The nuts that held the driveshaft to the brake disc were right little buggers on mine. I had to resort to the blue spanner.
Didn't have to disconnect anything else though the drive shaft just slid off, and the upright pivoted on the A frame. As I recall I did jack up the hub a little to ease the shaft off the bolts.
Shims came from a jag supplies place. I think mine was a degree and a half out, and I used 6 shims.
Didn't have to disconnect anything else though the drive shaft just slid off, and the upright pivoted on the A frame. As I recall I did jack up the hub a little to ease the shaft off the bolts.
Shims came from a jag supplies place. I think mine was a degree and a half out, and I used 6 shims.
Mr Tank said:
Hi Gav
I think I know your problem, you have been using the incorrect material for the shims.
The combination of Banana and Sausage skins is the problem. You should us the proper shims!
Andy
Haha,I think I know your problem, you have been using the incorrect material for the shims.
The combination of Banana and Sausage skins is the problem. You should us the proper shims!
Andy
Nice one Andy, glad you have been paying attention !!
Don't let on to anyone, but i intend to make it to "The Sausage Meat" one saturday.
After all, Zig makes a great effort to get to the Ace, and our local croxley green gig, so i should endevour !!
May even take the monkey along for a ride.
Hope your getting better.
Gavin
Convert said:
The nuts that held the driveshaft to the brake disc were right little buggers on mine. I had to resort to the blue spanner.
Didn't have to disconnect anything else though the drive shaft just slid off, and the upright pivoted on the A frame. As I recall I did jack up the hub a little to ease the shaft off the bolts.
Shims came from a jag supplies place. I think mine was a degree and a half out, and I used 6 shims.
Steve ,Andy,Adam and Dave, thank you for the advice.Didn't have to disconnect anything else though the drive shaft just slid off, and the upright pivoted on the A frame. As I recall I did jack up the hub a little to ease the shaft off the bolts.
Shims came from a jag supplies place. I think mine was a degree and a half out, and I used 6 shims.
Steve, was is 6 shims (if so, what thickness), or 6mm ?
What is "the blue spanner ??
And i have trailing arm myself.....hope i don't need to disco anything else too !!
Gavin
Solitude said:
Haha,
Nice one Andy, glad you have been paying attention !!
Don't let on to anyone, but i intend to make it to "The Sausage Meat" one saturday.
After all, Zig makes a great effort to get to the Ace, and our local croxley green gig, so i should endevour !!
May even take the monkey along for a ride.
Hope your getting better.
Gavin
GavNice one Andy, glad you have been paying attention !!
Don't let on to anyone, but i intend to make it to "The Sausage Meat" one saturday.
After all, Zig makes a great effort to get to the Ace, and our local croxley green gig, so i should endevour !!
May even take the monkey along for a ride.
Hope your getting better.
Gavin
As soon as I can I will be trying to go to both!
I do like a good sausage and a banana is Ok for a sweet!
Hope to see you some time soon!
Andy
Solitude said:
Steve ,Andy,Adam and Dave, thank you for the advice.
Steve, was is 6 shims (if so, what thickness), or 6mm ?
What is "the blue spanner ??
And i have trailing arm myself.....hope i don't need to disco anything else too !!
Gavin
Gav,Steve, was is 6 shims (if so, what thickness), or 6mm ?
What is "the blue spanner ??
And i have trailing arm myself.....hope i don't need to disco anything else too !!
Gavin
It was six std jag shims and that changed my camber by 1.5 degrees.
Blue spanner is an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch, used to heat up the nuts to help free them.
Convert said:
Gav,
It was six std jag shims and that changed my camber by 1.5 degrees.
Blue spanner is an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch, used to heat up the nuts to help free them.
Poor old Gav, if you had stayed being a spanner monkey instead of turning into a lesbian you would know what a blue spanner is!!It was six std jag shims and that changed my camber by 1.5 degrees.
Blue spanner is an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch, used to heat up the nuts to help free them.
Quote of the day for the sosige meet was, 'keep pumping it untill it gets hard'.... you can guess what was happening!
Stu
hallsie said:
Convert said:
Gav,
It was six std jag shims and that changed my camber by 1.5 degrees.
Blue spanner is an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch, used to heat up the nuts to help free them.
Poor old Gav, if you had stayed being a spanner monkey instead of turning into a lesbian you would know what a blue spanner is!!It was six std jag shims and that changed my camber by 1.5 degrees.
Blue spanner is an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch, used to heat up the nuts to help free them.
Quote of the day for the sosige meet was, 'keep pumping it untill it gets hard'.... you can guess what was happening!
Stu
I have to admit, if you pump it too much, it gets hard, and you can get your nuts hot without the blue spanner
8mm! You might not have enough room on the studs for that.
However I just did a calculation based on 150mm (guess) between stub axle centre line and bottom link, which came to 5mm (150mm * tan(2)). So maybe that's correct.
Now much stud is sticking out at the moment?
It might be worth checking the bushings on the bottom link to make sure they aren't collapsed, or you will have to do it all again.
However I just did a calculation based on 150mm (guess) between stub axle centre line and bottom link, which came to 5mm (150mm * tan(2)). So maybe that's correct.
Now much stud is sticking out at the moment?
It might be worth checking the bushings on the bottom link to make sure they aren't collapsed, or you will have to do it all again.
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