Gearbox removal advice
Discussion
I need to remove the gearbox to deal with the clutch slave seals.
I've seen how Andrew can turn the gb upside down and extract it without moving the exhaust manifolds, but that looks far too difficult for me.
Please share your experiences of gb removal, any and all info would be be very much appreciated, not only by me but also by 'Dr G' who has very generously offered to assist this weekend.
I've seen how Andrew can turn the gb upside down and extract it without moving the exhaust manifolds, but that looks far too difficult for me.
Please share your experiences of gb removal, any and all info would be be very much appreciated, not only by me but also by 'Dr G' who has very generously offered to assist this weekend.
I've just taken mine out on axle stands... Actually not that bad...
Exhaust off inluding cats if you have them, heat shield and prop off, then rear gearbox mount out.
I undid the 4 bolts holding it to the bell housing, pulled it back and then prying the manifolds apart slightly twisted it out... Its tight but does come out....
Exhaust off inluding cats if you have them, heat shield and prop off, then rear gearbox mount out.
I undid the 4 bolts holding it to the bell housing, pulled it back and then prying the manifolds apart slightly twisted it out... Its tight but does come out....
You don't need to completely remove the gearbox to do the clutch slave. Unbolt it from the bell housing (4 bolts) and slide it back so it rests on the exhaust manifolds - I also stick a scissor jack under it so the entire weight isn't on the manifolds. You can then unbolt the bell housing and have plenty of room to drop that out complete with the clutch slave. It is a relatively easy one man job.
Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
Tanguero said:
You don't need to completely remove the gearbox to do the clutch slave. Unbolt it from the bell housing (4 bolts) and slide it back so it rests on the exhaust manifolds - I also stick a scissor jack under it so the entire weight isn't on the manifolds. You can then unbolt the bell housing and have plenty of room to drop that out complete with the clutch slave. It is a relatively easy one man job.
Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
I think this is what the chaps did with mine. Luckily the seals had leaked to the rear so when they pulled it away from the housing all the fluid ran out over them rather than forwards to the clutch plates Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
I did feel sorry for them, so made some more tea.
Tanguero said:
You don't need to completely remove the gearbox to do the clutch slave. Unbolt it from the bell housing (4 bolts) and slide it back so it rests on the exhaust manifolds - I also stick a scissor jack under it so the entire weight isn't on the manifolds. You can then unbolt the bell housing and have plenty of room to drop that out complete with the clutch slave. It is a relatively easy one man job.
Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
Wish I'd remembered about that guide before I drained all the rather expensive and virtually new AFT from the box....Mad Mark's guide is here http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
Thanks for the advice though, that is exactly what I needed to know. However your assertion that it's a relatively easy one man job can be taken with a pinch of salt. The first time we removed the gearbox, with the manifolds out of the way, it took several hours to extricate it from the bellhousing, as it was seized in place due to being regularly soaked in coolant.
ukkid35 said:
Wish I'd remembered about that guide before I drained all the rather expensive and virtually new AFT from the box....
Thanks for the advice though, that is exactly what I needed to know. However your assertion that it's a relatively easy one man job can be taken with a pinch of salt. The first time we removed the gearbox, with the manifolds out of the way, it took several hours to extricate it from the bellhousing, as it was seized in place due to being regularly soaked in coolant.
Well I have had my gearbox off several times for various reasons and always on my own. The first time it was definitely more difficult to separate, but by wedging the clutch pedal down and applying a bit of carefully placed leverage it certainly can be moved single handed.Thanks for the advice though, that is exactly what I needed to know. However your assertion that it's a relatively easy one man job can be taken with a pinch of salt. The first time we removed the gearbox, with the manifolds out of the way, it took several hours to extricate it from the bellhousing, as it was seized in place due to being regularly soaked in coolant.
As you have already had it off once, I maintain its a fairly easy one man job
BTW - how the hell does coolant get that far away from where it should be? The input shaft is a fair way and well protected from any coolant leaks isn't it?
It's been my contention for some time that the expansion tank implementation is utter nonsense. Any coolant overflow just gets dumped directly under the expansion tank, there's no overflow drain hose to take it away. From there it destroys the heatshield, corrodes the chassis rail, and on mine it liberally splashed the clutch bellhousing, and this was the result.
Edited by ukkid35 on Sunday 10th April 22:09
Blummin 'eck - that's what a chassis looks like without the Manifolds in the way !
Taken mine off twice, on my own, on axle stands. Resting Gbox on Manifolds and Jack as mentioned.
Most difficult parts were undoing the Bellhousing and Gearbox Allen bolts without ball-ended Allen Keys – not recommended
Oh, and replacing the Starter Motor
I drained the box, like yourself, coz I didn’t want it to dribble out the prop end.
Best of
Taken mine off twice, on my own, on axle stands. Resting Gbox on Manifolds and Jack as mentioned.
Most difficult parts were undoing the Bellhousing and Gearbox Allen bolts without ball-ended Allen Keys – not recommended
Oh, and replacing the Starter Motor
I drained the box, like yourself, coz I didn’t want it to dribble out the prop end.
Best of
Hi guys,
Old story again. Leaking slave cylinder of Cerb 4.5.
I have read all posts on PH (many thxs to you all) and had a quick look under the car today.
Got already used to the typical Cerbie nightmare work space earlier, but ........ how did you get to the upper gearbox bolts with the manifolds on and, even worse, get the required torque on the bolts?
From above or below?
From below with an allen-key and extensions and ratchet from the back of the GB?
Old story again. Leaking slave cylinder of Cerb 4.5.
I have read all posts on PH (many thxs to you all) and had a quick look under the car today.
Got already used to the typical Cerbie nightmare work space earlier, but ........ how did you get to the upper gearbox bolts with the manifolds on and, even worse, get the required torque on the bolts?
From above or below?
From below with an allen-key and extensions and ratchet from the back of the GB?
feithv8s said:
Hi guys,
Old story again. Leaking slave cylinder of Cerb 4.5.
I have read all posts on PH (many thxs to you all) and had a quick look under the car today.
Got already used to the typical Cerbie nightmare work space earlier, but ........ how did you get to the upper gearbox bolts with the manifolds on and, even worse, get the required torque on the bolts?
From above or below?
From below with an allen-key and extensions and ratchet from the back of the GB?
Long ball end hex and a wobble extension from underneath.Old story again. Leaking slave cylinder of Cerb 4.5.
I have read all posts on PH (many thxs to you all) and had a quick look under the car today.
Got already used to the typical Cerbie nightmare work space earlier, but ........ how did you get to the upper gearbox bolts with the manifolds on and, even worse, get the required torque on the bolts?
From above or below?
From below with an allen-key and extensions and ratchet from the back of the GB?
It's not difficult, but don't rush!
For me, with the car just over shoulder width high off the ground and some nice comfy/spongy garage flooring, it's an ok job.
Remember to have the car level once raised so that when you are filling the gearbox with oil, after it's been refitted, the correct amount is used. Too much and you will blow a seal.
small question here as well.
My gearbox is out as well and i'd like to change the gearbox oil.
I know the handbook says ATF oil, but i've been reading about gearbox oil here on PH and some say ATF isn't that suited.
And 75w90 is the way to go as this provides better bearing and gear protection.
What are your guys thoughts on this?
My gearbox is out as well and i'd like to change the gearbox oil.
I know the handbook says ATF oil, but i've been reading about gearbox oil here on PH and some say ATF isn't that suited.
And 75w90 is the way to go as this provides better bearing and gear protection.
What are your guys thoughts on this?
Perfect timing - mine has gone as well and I'm into the 3rd week of topping up. Now the top up is not lasting so the slave needs looking at.
Thanks for all the advise everybody. I'm now wondering what action to take. It seems there are different slave cylinders also. I think I will take mine out before ordering anything. Having read some other threads the factory slave seems pants. Is race tech the way to go? Or shall I just replace the seals?
Thanks for all the advise everybody. I'm now wondering what action to take. It seems there are different slave cylinders also. I think I will take mine out before ordering anything. Having read some other threads the factory slave seems pants. Is race tech the way to go? Or shall I just replace the seals?
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff