06-09 Legacy Spec-B - what to watch for???
Discussion
Considering one of these as an alternative to the default 330i Touring.
Drove one earlier today and was pretty impressed - steering a little aloof, gearbox only so-so and brakes desperately need more bite, but it had a very nice chassis balance, rode beautifully for 18s and pulled purposefully - linear, responsive, sweet engine which is so easy to hit the 7k limiter in. Great visibility and nice inside too - a little early-00s Japanese in places, and needs more storage, but a nice place to be nonetheless with a lot of kit for the money.
I know it'll drink like Olly Reed on a bad day (I'm told 25 in mixed use, 28 on a run, 22 around town), and I can see services aren't cheap (~£200 for a minor, £500 for a major at a main dealer).
But what else do I need to know? Where are the likely bills coming from, what do I need to check at test-drive, is a warranty going to be my best-friend for any reason???
Thanks all,
Martin.
Drove one earlier today and was pretty impressed - steering a little aloof, gearbox only so-so and brakes desperately need more bite, but it had a very nice chassis balance, rode beautifully for 18s and pulled purposefully - linear, responsive, sweet engine which is so easy to hit the 7k limiter in. Great visibility and nice inside too - a little early-00s Japanese in places, and needs more storage, but a nice place to be nonetheless with a lot of kit for the money.
I know it'll drink like Olly Reed on a bad day (I'm told 25 in mixed use, 28 on a run, 22 around town), and I can see services aren't cheap (~£200 for a minor, £500 for a major at a main dealer).
But what else do I need to know? Where are the likely bills coming from, what do I need to check at test-drive, is a warranty going to be my best-friend for any reason???
Thanks all,
Martin.
Are there many? Selection might be an issue.
I know I looked for a spec B estate from the last couple of years and drew a blank.
Imports perhaps?
I can't imagine there are many major design flaws. Are they auto only?
ETA Scrap that - found one or two now, manual too. For the cash they look a good deal.
I know I looked for a spec B estate from the last couple of years and drew a blank.
Imports perhaps?
I can't imagine there are many major design flaws. Are they auto only?
ETA Scrap that - found one or two now, manual too. For the cash they look a good deal.
Edited by DKL on Tuesday 19th June 22:05
Got rid of My spec b earlier this year.
The only thing that I know that seems to be a common problem is that the shocks can go and it is hard to diagnose as they don't easily leak (inverted).
Mine ended up sounding like the wheel was going to fall off. Mechanics looked at all the bushes, rod ends, wishbones etc and drew a blank. Legacy forum suggested the bilsteins may be buggered.
They were right. I managed to get a set from a broken car from ebay for £450 for the set otherwise you can only get replacements from Subaru at around £450 per shock so £1800 per set.
You can only tell they are broken when you take them off the car but make it your first port of call when you hear a knocking or you can spend hundreds of pounds replacing bushes etc for no reason.
Don't let this put you off though. They are fantastic cars in general.
Buy a lower mileage one and you probably wont get this problem. mine had 125,000+ on it and spent most of its life as a farmers car.
The only thing that I know that seems to be a common problem is that the shocks can go and it is hard to diagnose as they don't easily leak (inverted).
Mine ended up sounding like the wheel was going to fall off. Mechanics looked at all the bushes, rod ends, wishbones etc and drew a blank. Legacy forum suggested the bilsteins may be buggered.
They were right. I managed to get a set from a broken car from ebay for £450 for the set otherwise you can only get replacements from Subaru at around £450 per shock so £1800 per set.
You can only tell they are broken when you take them off the car but make it your first port of call when you hear a knocking or you can spend hundreds of pounds replacing bushes etc for no reason.
Don't let this put you off though. They are fantastic cars in general.
Buy a lower mileage one and you probably wont get this problem. mine had 125,000+ on it and spent most of its life as a farmers car.
List of things I've replaced on my 05Rn (virtually the same model) that appear to be common, include:
Mild steel exhaust fails at the Y, replaced with Hayward & Scott ss system and Prodrive tailpipes. Farkin' expensive though and a lot noisier than I like
Front wishbone rear bush, replaced with Powerflex caster adjustable version
Brakes are crap - get them flushed with new fluid and replace pads for EBC Red Stuff, and if you're adventurous, use their Ultimax discs too. Massive improvement
Everything else I've done has been of the roof rack, towbar, subwoofer type of thing - not because of a failure with anything.
Mild steel exhaust fails at the Y, replaced with Hayward & Scott ss system and Prodrive tailpipes. Farkin' expensive though and a lot noisier than I like
Front wishbone rear bush, replaced with Powerflex caster adjustable version
Brakes are crap - get them flushed with new fluid and replace pads for EBC Red Stuff, and if you're adventurous, use their Ultimax discs too. Massive improvement
Everything else I've done has been of the roof rack, towbar, subwoofer type of thing - not because of a failure with anything.
Forgot wheel bearings - they were upgraded part way through the run. I only need one new one now (111K miles) but others have needed them much earlier. They're simple to change because the replacement part incorporates the hub but expensive because of that.
And finally drop links - normally need changing ever 50K miles (ish). Easy to change and should be ~£100 the lot (if fitting yourself).
And finally drop links - normally need changing ever 50K miles (ish). Easy to change and should be ~£100 the lot (if fitting yourself).
Watchman said:
List of things I've replaced on my 05Rn (virtually the same model) that appear to be common, include:
Mild steel exhaust fails at the Y, replaced with Hayward & Scott ss system and Prodrive tailpipes. Farkin' expensive though and a lot noisier than I like
Brakes are crap - get them flushed with new fluid and replace pads for EBC Red Stuff, and if you're adventurous, use their Ultimax discs too. Massive improvement
Now you mention it my Spec B did have a tiny hole in the Y pipe. I didn't realise this was a common fault but I guess it is to be expected that the standard exhaust is going to wear out eventually.Mild steel exhaust fails at the Y, replaced with Hayward & Scott ss system and Prodrive tailpipes. Farkin' expensive though and a lot noisier than I like
Brakes are crap - get them flushed with new fluid and replace pads for EBC Red Stuff, and if you're adventurous, use their Ultimax discs too. Massive improvement
I never had a problem with brakes though on mine or my Dad's Rn. I even took his to the Ring for a week and it had no problems (in fact his Rn gave us no problems for the 70k+ miles he owned it). I know the Ring is not hard on brakes as tracks go but it is a lot harder than a road.
The standard exhaust is only mild steel so it's on a ticking clock from the moment it leave the factory.
The brakes - well, I think I know what I'm talking about with most aspects of car-engineering so I decline the invitations to bleed my brakes at each service, thinking there was little point (twice a year). However, since I said "yes" to that question last time, and my brakes are like new (firm pedal, lots of feel) again, I shall probably have it done each and every time now.
But the standard brakes are a bit crap anyway, in that they quickly suffer from friction hot-spots leading to that "warped" feeling at the pedal. The EBC RedStuff pads are a harder compound and keep the disc better swept. The EBC Ultimax discs are actually cheaper than the standard ones, and offer nothing that the OEMs don't (pretty straight-forward tech in discs).
The brakes - well, I think I know what I'm talking about with most aspects of car-engineering so I decline the invitations to bleed my brakes at each service, thinking there was little point (twice a year). However, since I said "yes" to that question last time, and my brakes are like new (firm pedal, lots of feel) again, I shall probably have it done each and every time now.
But the standard brakes are a bit crap anyway, in that they quickly suffer from friction hot-spots leading to that "warped" feeling at the pedal. The EBC RedStuff pads are a harder compound and keep the disc better swept. The EBC Ultimax discs are actually cheaper than the standard ones, and offer nothing that the OEMs don't (pretty straight-forward tech in discs).
Thanks all.
Currently wondering whether a Focus ST3 might be slightly easier to source and nearly as practical/well equipped.
Legacy looks/feels more special, but it'll be harder to sell-on again, and will probably cost more to run.
An affordable 330i is out as HR are playing the policy to the letter with me (despite giving several people, inc. my boss (!!!) a lot more leeway...raised that and got told "I'll talk to him, but let's get you compliant first!), and no other 5dr hot hatch has a bigger boot than the Golf.
Currently wondering whether a Focus ST3 might be slightly easier to source and nearly as practical/well equipped.
Legacy looks/feels more special, but it'll be harder to sell-on again, and will probably cost more to run.
An affordable 330i is out as HR are playing the policy to the letter with me (despite giving several people, inc. my boss (!!!) a lot more leeway...raised that and got told "I'll talk to him, but let's get you compliant first!), and no other 5dr hot hatch has a bigger boot than the Golf.
I've had mine for 25k and its been great, but the period between 45k and 70k seems to be when some money needs to be spent... most points have been raised here.
Bilstein shocks go clunky (mine went at 60k). £££ at the dealers but can be ordered from bilstein (They are b6 shocks as standard). Make sure these have been done in higher milage cars. Top mounts should be done at the same time.
Clutch can go between 50k to 80k depending how its been driven. Again, dealers are £££ and want you to change flywheel as well, which is not always necessary.
Bushes are sloppy by 50-60K and can be replaced with poly ones. This has transformed the handling on mine.
As stated the y joint in the exhaust leaks in time. The OEM exhaust is expensive but you can get a Subaru sports exhaust (scorpion/pro r)on the cheap which sounds great.
Engines are bullet proof so long as 5w 40 oil is used. If not, it can balls up the AVCS (variable valve timing)
Standard tyres are expensive (rare 215/45/18's) but cheaper 225/40/18's fit
Post 06 models got a facelift / revisions -
++
AVCS on the exhaust cams = better low down torque
HID headlamps
Ipod connection
Revised interior / exterior design inc. alloys.
SI Drive - Gimmick for changing engine map/response(no different than using your right foot)
Welded braces under A pillars giving better turn in / chassis rigidity
Slightly retuned rear suspension
Heavier duty bushes
--
No Lightweight bonnet
Higher tax
25kg heavier
They are fantastic all rounders - great off road, stick like snot to a blanket in the wet, sound great and nice and rare.
Just come back from the south of france in mine and it was great. 31 MPG on the way back (very long 6th gear). 27 average if you are carefull. 21 average if you are not.
Bilstein shocks go clunky (mine went at 60k). £££ at the dealers but can be ordered from bilstein (They are b6 shocks as standard). Make sure these have been done in higher milage cars. Top mounts should be done at the same time.
Clutch can go between 50k to 80k depending how its been driven. Again, dealers are £££ and want you to change flywheel as well, which is not always necessary.
Bushes are sloppy by 50-60K and can be replaced with poly ones. This has transformed the handling on mine.
As stated the y joint in the exhaust leaks in time. The OEM exhaust is expensive but you can get a Subaru sports exhaust (scorpion/pro r)on the cheap which sounds great.
Engines are bullet proof so long as 5w 40 oil is used. If not, it can balls up the AVCS (variable valve timing)
Standard tyres are expensive (rare 215/45/18's) but cheaper 225/40/18's fit
Post 06 models got a facelift / revisions -
++
AVCS on the exhaust cams = better low down torque
HID headlamps
Ipod connection
Revised interior / exterior design inc. alloys.
SI Drive - Gimmick for changing engine map/response(no different than using your right foot)
Welded braces under A pillars giving better turn in / chassis rigidity
Slightly retuned rear suspension
Heavier duty bushes
--
No Lightweight bonnet
Higher tax
25kg heavier
They are fantastic all rounders - great off road, stick like snot to a blanket in the wet, sound great and nice and rare.
Just come back from the south of france in mine and it was great. 31 MPG on the way back (very long 6th gear). 27 average if you are carefull. 21 average if you are not.
Azur said:
Clutch can go between 50k to 80k depending how its been driven. Again, dealers are £££ and want you to change flywheel as well, which is not always necessary.
...but you should at least get the flywheel skimmed at every clutch change. They develop hotspots on the face of the flywheel over time that can cause the clutch to judder. Very common with turbo impreza clutches. If you go to an independent subaru specialist to have your clutch changed it's likely they will have a flywheel ready skimmed and ready to fit to your car, or they will know a little engineering machine shop they use regularly somewhere close by that will skim them in an hour or so for about £60.
Azur said:
Engines are bullet proof so long as 5w 40 oil is used. If not, it can balls up the AVCS (variable valve timing)
Its 5/30 as the recomended oil, the timing chain tensioners dont like anything else. Check out uklegacy forum for more advice.One owner had fubar'd timing chain tensioners from 40w oil supplied from dealers, big bills to change the chain and tensioners.
also 30w oil is a little thin for sustained hard use in a subaru, i.e. track and big ends tend to fail. So if you ride it hard you have the choice of fubar tensioners or fubar bottom end*
- this obviously doesnt apply to normal road use, but something to think about.
Cracking car, bit heavy on juice for the performance level in 3.0 na. Consider the BP 03-09 GT spec B jap version instead with its 2.0 lt twinscroll turbo set up if you can find one. Better on fuel and performance. 280 bhp and turbo is on tap from 2500 rpm, whereas the 3.0 needs a fair bit of revs to get itself motoring.
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