Japan for 11 days - what to see and do?
Japan for 11 days - what to see and do?
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g3org3y

Original Poster:

22,513 posts

222 months

Saturday 16th June 2012
quotequote all
Looks like the Mexico/Cuba plan has gone out the window as last night the gf and I booked flights to Tokyo!

Rough Guide is now on order from Amazon but thought it worthwhile to check the PH collective knowledge too.

We'll be starting in Tokyo but of course want to explore interesting places around too (I suspect commuting shouldn't be an issue with the bullet trains). With only 11 days we've got to be quite strict about where we go/what we see.

Would appreciate suggestions of 'must sees', where to eat, where to stay etc in Tokyo and more generally cities worth visiting.

To say I'm excited is an understatement!

TIA smile

LostCroc

132 posts

185 months

Saturday 16th June 2012
quotequote all
11 days in Japan eh? I think I can keep you occupied. I assume you are going soon? Rainy season finishes around mid-July which then transitions into summer. Not the greatest of seasons as it is hot and humid.

I lived in Tokyo for 5 years and traveled a lot around Japan but still not enough. I came very close to settling down there for longer. Japan is a fascinating place and worthy of exploration.

I would break up the trip into 2 chunks – 4 days Tokyo and 4 days Kyoto. The rest of the time will get chewed up on the train or to and from airports/transit/etc. (e.g. getting from Kyoto back to Tokyo and to Narita airport). Be ready for high costs on hotels, shinkansen trips and Tokyo taxis.

The following is copied from old emails for friends who would visit. It will work for you.

Tokyo
• Do not take a taxi from Narita airport which Is where I expect you will flying into. It is 75km outside Tokyo. The better option is to take an orange and white airport limousine bus – you will see the counters as you exit baggage claim into the waiting hall. The bus can usually drop you at or close to your hotel. The other good alternative is take the Narita Express train from underneath the terminal into Tokyo Station or Shinjuku or other locations.
• Where to stay is a difficult issue. Somewhere central is a good idea – very close to a subway station is essential. Look around the areas of Ginza/Marunouchi/Otemachi/Hibiya or Roppongi or Shibuya or Akasaka or Shinjuku. Expect the room will be a shoebox in size.
• The secret to getting around Tokyo is learn the subway. It is surprisingly easy and very cheap. Keep away from taxis as they can be horrifically expensive. Also the air conditioning helps to revive you in summer. If you google you will probably find a step by step guide to the subway system to study. Here it is: http://www.tokyometro.jp/en/index.html
o Print several copies of this out in color
o http://www.tokyometro.jp/en/subwaymap/pdf/routemap_en.pdf
o You can match the English to the Japanese stations on the boards to determine the cost of your fare if you have to. I always bought one of the 1000, 5000, 10000 yen passes. Easier that way.
• Get a good map – a very good map. The Japan Tourist Bureau has counters in the arrival hall at the airport and used to hand maps out for free. You need to have a map that shows streets and subway lines/stations. Accept that you will get lost at many points during this trip but it will all work out.

Now you are mobile then the sites I think you should visit:
• They have museums but I will let you read about those.
• Stroll the night time in the main central shopping part of Shibuya or Ginza. Times Square NY lights are pathetic by comparison. The lights allow you to see more than you would by day. Be very careful about dining out in what look like expensive restaurants as they likely will be.
• While in Ginza stop in at Mitsukoshi Department Store and head down to the multilevel food floors to gaze at the food. Check on the prices on the mythical melons and other delicacies. When I did not (frequently) feel like cooking I would always find dinner here on the way home). A back up to Ginza is Takashimaya Department Store in Shinjuku which also has a good food hall. There is also a Mitsukoshi in Nihombashi which is another very good alternative.
• Tskuji fish markets – need to be there no later than about 6-6.30. I think they make you take organized tours now which is a pity as exploring by yourself was entertaining. Do not wear nice shoes – expect them to get a splashed and dirty.
• A good day excursion – Head by subway to Asakusa. Explore around the Senso-ji Temple area. The approach to the temple is good for souveneirs. Once finished head towards the river. Take a Sumida River boat downriver (aka waterbus) to Daiba/Odaiba. You may have to change at Hama Rikyu depending on the schedule. At Daiba head up the steps to the main shopping levels in the complex. This will get you on the level that connects to MegaWorld towards the shopping complex. Good spot for lunch here plus shopping if you want. After that, there is an elevated walkway that keeps heading east towards Toyota MegaWorld (one of the more interesting car dealerships I have been to) and VenusFort (Japanese advertising says it is “Theme Park for Ladies”). VenusFort has a very small interesting free car museum within it called something like History Garage. Both are worth exploring. To get back, take the Yurikamone monorail line from Aomi station back to Shimbashi, just south of Ginza. This map helps visualize:
• http://www.yurikamome.co.jp/en/contents/hp0005/index.php?No=5&CNo=5
• Day trips – Think of taking organized bus trips to Hakone (Mt Fuji and five lakes area) or Nikko. Both are somewhat weather dependent but worth doing.
• Another exploration – get off at Omotesando station, walk down Omotesando dori, across into Yoyogi Park and walk up to Meiji Shrine. Afterwards you can take a train to Shinjuku on the Yamamote line or walk down the hill to Shibuya through the old Olympic Park.
• Electric Town. Get off at Akihabara station and explore the electronics town. There is stuff for sale here that we never see in the western world.
• Free aerial view of Tokyo. About 10 mins walk west of Shinjuku station is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center. At the top of each (2) tower they have a free lookout area 50 floors up. Great for getting a view of the packed surroundings. I think the south tower is better but try both.
• Any random exploring around Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza or Ueno will reward with some sights.
• Dining options – There are always good and affordable eating places around the major train stations any time you are in Japan.

Kyoto
• Must travel there on Shinkansen (bullet train) – about 3 hours. Easy to do with your luggage although if it is too big then you just leave it in the area at the end of the carriage. Make sure you are on time as the train is never late.
• A gem of a city – must see sites are Nijo Castle, Kiyomizu Temple (and the walk along Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka to Yasaka Shrine), Philosophers Walk, Silver Pavilion and Gold Pavilion.
• Evenings are suited for strolling Pontocho Allet and Gion District.
• Some people swear by the Japanese garden at Ryoan-ji Temple. I preferred Myoshin-ji or the Fushimi Inari shrine (lots of red Tori gates lining the hillside pathways) – not as touristy.
• I always travelled between sites in a taxi just to save time as the sites are not well laid out relative to the subway although the bus network is very good. With careful planning you can walk between some of these sites then take a taxi to another clump and start walking again.
• Even though you will stay in Kyoto, Osaka is 20 minutes away by subway. Unless you have time I would forget it (I spent too much time working in the city!). Same goes for Kobe. More rewarding would be to try for Nara. You can get there by train yourself of just have your hotel point you to a day tour operator.
• A good half day trip from Kyoto is to take the inter-urban train from Kyoto down south to Himeji. About 10-15 mins walk west of the station (straight along the main street so you see after you walk out of the station) is Himeji Castle. One of the few intact Japanese feudal castles that has not been “restored”. World Heritage site.
• If you have a spare day then there are the very long 1 day trips to Hiroshima (organized tour). These are not cheap (US$450 or so per person) as they put you on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima for 3.5 hours then bus you around Hiroshima. The key highlights are the Peace Museum which is very moving and Miyajima Island to visit Itsukushima Shrine. Despite the cost I would seriously recommend considering it as the sites are unique and worthy. If you feel brave you can do the trip solo and take a taxi from Hiroshima station to Peace Park/Museum then another taxi to the ferry to Miyajima Island (no cars on the island needed) and then taxi all the way back to the Shinkansen station. It is not worth making a separate trip here and staying overnight just for this but the sites are worth visiting. http://online.jtbusa.com/TourDetail.aspx?TourID=11...

For other ideas visit the Japan Travel Bureau site and look for day tours to see what they say:
http://online.jtbusa.com/TourList.aspx

Another experience to consider trying is staying at a Ryokan (Japanese traditional hotel). I suggest one night only as your back may not survive the cotton wadding mattress. These include a Japanese dinner the night before (likely kaiseki so be adventurous), opportunity to soak naked in a communal hot spring onsen tub with a bunch of Japanese people you do not know, and then a lovely night on the floor.


Edited by LostCroc on Saturday 16th June 20:32

D_G

1,953 posts

240 months

Saturday 16th June 2012
quotequote all
What he said!

You can buy a travel pass in the UK (must be bought in advance) which gets you travel on nearly all JR trains, it's gone up a lot since I went but be aware a bullet train ticket to Kyoto will cost around £100 each way per ticket. Narita express is the easiest way from the airport to Tokyo, this is covered by the JR pass if you buy it. Always be early for the trains as they are never late!
The exchange rate is pretty poor at present so everything will be expensive. I paid 19000Y per night for a nice guest house in Kyoto, around £155 today.
Your debit card won't work in most banks, the only reliable ones are Citibank. I used mine for cash withdraws and the rates were resonable (no different to buying here) so take some cash in advance and plan where the Citibanks are.
Also in Asakusa is the 'Golden Turd' and Asahi Tower where you can sample a special blend at the bar on top of the tower. Boat trips are good from here.
Definately go to the fish market but get there by 5.30am, it's worth it to be early.
Restaurants can be difficult unless you read Japanese, some have picture menus so you'll just have to see how it goes. Be prepared to try some unusual stuff!!
It's a brilliant place, enjoy!



Edited by D_G on Saturday 16th June 11:56

GlenMH

5,469 posts

274 months

Saturday 16th June 2012
quotequote all
I have just got back from nearly 4 years in Tokyo - a very entertaining place!

Echo the points made above about small hotel rooms!

For 11 days, it has to to be Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima.

Have a look at www.japanican.com for 5/6 day trips that do both Kyoto and Hiroshima on the fastest trains. Trust me, this is the fastest/cheapest way to do it as it is a company owned by Japan Railways, who also own the hotels. We got thoroughly "templed out" in Kyoto and far preferred Hiroshima and the day trip to Miyajima.

English subway maps are now available at all metro stations.

Carreauchompeur and Choptop on here can help with cheap hotels as they have been over fairly recently.

When are you going over? If it is July and August, then you are in for a very hot and sweaty time. To save power, they have turned off the majority of the illuminations on the buildings and only air-con down to 28C. Last year, consumption got to over 90% of available power generating capacity so they are really aware of it.

Ordering food in any of those cities will be easy - they are used to tourists and a good number of restaurants have picture menus/plastic models outside now.

If you want to find out what we got up to, the link to my blog is in my profile. Any q's then drop me a pm.

oblio

5,604 posts

258 months

Sunday 17th June 2012
quotequote all
I'v only been once but would add that if you get a clear view of Mount Fuji on any particluar day, photograph it!

I stayed in Tokyo for 4 days and on the first morning had a great view from my hotel window. I didnt think anything of it but for the rest of the time it was obscured by cloud. I then found out that it is only visible on a low % of days...so I never got the shot again!

PauloBellende

352 posts

282 months

Monday 18th June 2012
quotequote all
Lost Croc has done a sterling job at advice as have some others, that I cannot improve on.
What I will say is we spent part of our honeymoon in Japan as a round the world trip taking in Malaysia,HK,Singapore,Fiji, USA etc..(2010)

We did Tokyo, bullet train to Kyoto and Ossaka.

Could not emphasise enough how respectful and concerning the Japanaese are and misunderstood (by us) Their culture and country is a stand alone singular eyeopener which you will be overwhelmed by.

Not enough people go there as a destination. You will love the place. Highlight, Tokyo fishmarket, eating sushi 4.30am, Sumo final,bullet train, Kobe beef in backstreet Kyoto, cultural shrines etc..
Also for fun get the Film "Lost in translation". Funny, sad film but shows some good insight into loneliness, hope etc of single travel. Great scenes in the Park Hyatt in the cocktail bar which to us had the view of the trip. Also nice hotel to stay in.

Here this is a link:
http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels-tokyo-par...

Regs

996nick

181 posts

216 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Great post by Lost Croc.

My Dad and I did a lot of what is set out in Lost Crocs post when we went to Japan in October last year and there is some awe inspiring stuff in there!

If you are flying non stop seriously consider an upgrade on the return leg.

We got some excellent deals on Agoda.com for hotels.

I really enjoyed Miyajma Island and the iconic(?) shrine there, Hiroshima is very depressing (as you would expect).

zac510

5,546 posts

237 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Just make sure you fly ANA if you're flying economy. I've flown with them a couple of times to Japan and they are the best!

g3org3y

Original Poster:

22,513 posts

222 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Brilliant response, thank you ever so much!

To answer a few questions:
- We are flying out on 30th June, returning on 11th July
- Our outbound flight is from LHR to Rome, 1.5hr stop over and from Rome to Tokyo.
- Return leg is Tokyo to Amsterdam, 2hr stop over and back to LHR.

Am very very excited! Ordered the Rough Guide to Japan (always found RG to be better than Lonely Planet) so can't wait to work through that along with the excellent and comprehensive posts above. Thanks again! smile

Le TVR

3,097 posts

282 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
From Kyoto you are in the area of Kansai and you can get a JR West tourist pass that covers train travel over most of the Kansai region. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361_03.html
These can be bought at the station or in advance. This would cover trips to Osaka, Nara and Himeji.
Himeji Castle is a must see if you are anywhere near.

zac510

5,546 posts

237 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
JR Pass covers N'EX too. Although if you don't have the JR pass and staying around Ueno the Skyliner train is cheaper and faster.

The first time I went to Japan I bought the JR Pass but only used it in the JR West region. I should have just got the JR West pass.

GlenMH

5,469 posts

274 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
scratchchin not sure that you would get value out of a rail pass in 11 days... Particularly as it won't be valid on the Tokyo metro.

zac510

5,546 posts

237 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Just last week Osaka-Tokyo one way non-reserved seat was 13000yen. Only difference is that you can take Nozomi with that ticket but not with the JR pass.

Of course you can use the JR pass on Yamanote and other JR lines in Tokyo so maybe 1/3 of your journeys could be done that way if you're really tight.

But Japan is not the place to go on a budget or if you're tight smile

zac510

5,546 posts

237 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
PS this site is good for journeys and it gives a good guide to the prices too: http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english

GlenMH

5,469 posts

274 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
zac510 said:
But Japan is not the place to go on a budget or if you're tight smile

With beer at 8 quid a pint in expat bars at the current exchange rate, I agree with you!

Hence the recommendation for japanican: for the price of the nozomi ticket, you can get a couple of nights in a hotel too.

g3org3y

Original Poster:

22,513 posts

222 months

Sunday 24th June 2012
quotequote all
Thanks again to everyone for their great advice.

Almost come up with a plan, would appreciated any feedback:

Sun 1st - Arrive Tokyo
Mon 2nd Tokyo
Tues 3rd Tokyo
Weds 4th Tokyo
Thurs 5th - Day trip to Mount Fuji (maybe via company)
Fri 6th Tokyo--->Kyoto
Sat 7th Hiroshima Day trip (via company)
Sun 8th Kyoto
Mon 9th Kyoto (perhaps Nara day trip)
Tues 10th Kyoto --->Tokyo (one night in Ryokan)
Weds 11th Tokyo--->Home

Can someone clarify the JR rail pass. Not sure what it is exactly valid for? I don't think the JR pass is valid on the Tokyo subway?

Looking at this: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361.html you can use it to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto via bullet train. And then further from Kyoto to Hiroshima? If we're doing the guided tour of Hiroshima from Kyoto and that includes the travel, the only other major journey we're making is from Tokyo to Kyoto and back.

TIA smile


Edited by g3org3y on Sunday 24th June 17:30

GlenMH

5,469 posts

274 months

Sunday 24th June 2012
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
Thanks again to everyone for their great advice.

Almost come up with a plan, would appreciated any feedback:

Sun 1st - Arrive Tokyo
Mon 2nd Tokyo
Tues 3rd Tokyo
Weds 4th Tokyo
Thurs 5th - Day trip to Mount Fuji (maybe via company)
Fri 6th Tokyo--->Kyoto
Sat 7th Hiroshima Day trip (via company)
Sun 8th Kyoto
Mon 9th Kyoto (perhaps Nara day trip)
Tues 10th Kyoto --->Tokyo (one night in Ryokan)
Weds 11th Tokyo--->Home

Can someone clarify the JR rail pass. Not sure what it is exactly valid for? I don't think the JR pass is valid on the Tokyo subway?

Looking at this: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361.html you can use it to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto via bullet train. And then further from Kyoto to Hiroshima? If we're doing the guided tour of Hiroshima from Kyoto and that includes the travel, the only other major journey we're making is from Tokyo to Kyoto and back.

TIA smile


Edited by g3org3y on Sunday 24th June 17:30
A couple of comments on the itinerary:
1 day in Hiroshima is not enough - particularly if you want to get to Miyajima, which is one of the top 3(? or 5?) photographed sights in Japan. The A-bomb museum and park etc will take half day +. Kyoto is very very nice but you may find you get "templed out" if you are there too long.
You can do the Hakone loop in a day yourself for the views of Fuji - you just need to get to the west side of JR Shinjuku station, find the Odakyu Shijuku Station (signs in English) and buy yourself a day trip ticket which covers the train ride up there, all the cable cars, local trains, pirate ships (!) and buses for you to do the loop.

Bullet trains: there are various grades, the Nozomi is the fastest one - averages 148mph to Hiroshima incl stops. The JR pass is only valid for travel on the Hikari trains, which are the next grade down.

Around Tokyo, there is the Metro system AND a number of private railway lines (Tobu, Odakyu, Sobu, Keikyu etc) that the pass is not valid on. In the centre of the city, it will ONLY be valid on the Yamanote (circle line) and Chuo - crosses town just above the palace, east to west. You will want to do the Yurikamome (not covered...) as it goes over the Rainbow Bridge and to Odaiba, which is where Asimo lives. Basically the black and white lines on this map:


Map is from: http://www.bento.com/subtop5.html

Any other q's, then drop me a pm.


Edited by GlenMH on Sunday 24th June 18:56

TallPaul

1,524 posts

289 months

Sunday 24th June 2012
quotequote all
Have a good walk around the Kyoto train station if you get time, i'm suprised no one has mentioned it but its an amazing building! The Toyota "museum" is also well worth a visit for any petrolhead.
We spent 10 days in Japan on our honeymoon and it really is an incredible place, its as far removed from western culture as I've ever been. If it wasnt so far away i'd love to go back again, you'll have a great time.

g3org3y

Original Poster:

22,513 posts

222 months

Sunday 24th June 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply!

Just wondering how to play things.

From Tokyo to Kyoto (one way) is 12700-13500, so around 26,000 yen return.

The JR rail pass is 28,300 yen. That will cover the trip to Kyoto and back as well as a day trip to Nara. It should also cover a trip from Kyoto to Hiroshima.

This looks like a good tour of Hiroshima and it also includes Miyajima. However, if we already have a JR pass, we'll be paying for the travel from Kyoto to Hiroshima twice which seems a little silly.

As such, we could use the JR pass to get to Hiroshima and do this tour which includes both Hiroshima and Miyajima and make our way back ourselves (again using the JR pass).

What do you think?

GlenMH

5,469 posts

274 months

Sunday 24th June 2012
quotequote all
TallPaul said:
Have a good walk around the Kyoto train station if you get time, i'm suprised no one has mentioned it but its an amazing building! The Toyota "museum" is also well worth a visit for any petrolhead.
We spent 10 days in Japan on our honeymoon and it really is an incredible place, its as far removed from western culture as I've ever been. If it wasnt so far away i'd love to go back again, you'll have a great time.
Fully support this - there is a great food court on the top floor, as well as a viewing platform that looks over the city. Architecturally, it is a great building too.

As a general point, if you are looking for food, railway stations are the most reliable places to go. In Tokyo, I recommend http://www.bento.com/ as a review site - very reliable.

In particular, if you are at Ebisu station on the Yamanote, I recommend here: http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130302/13005491/...
They do have a little english, there is an english menu and the food is epic if you like pork! They even serve it raw....

g3org3y said:
Thanks for the reply!

Just wondering how to play things.

From Tokyo to Kyoto (one way) is 12700-13500, so around 26,000 yen return.

The JR rail pass is 28,300 yen. That will cover the trip to Kyoto and back as well as a day trip to Nara. It should also cover a trip from Kyoto to Hiroshima.

This looks like a good tour of Hiroshima and it also includes Miyajima. However, if we already have a JR pass, we'll be paying for the travel from Kyoto to Hiroshima twice which seems a little silly.

As such, we could use the JR pass to get to Hiroshima and do this tour which includes both Hiroshima and Miyajima and make our way back ourselves (again using the JR pass).

What do you think?
Both those tours to Myajima don't give you enough time there to take the cable car to the top to see the shrines, monkeys (thieving bds) and the great views of the bay.

Personally, I would take this tour: http://www.japanican.com/tours/tourdetail.aspx?tc=...
The price includes the hotels. It gives you a day and a half to wander round Kyoto. Then, as soon as you arrive in Hiroshima, go to the hotel, ditch the bags and go and do the a-bomb stuff. Start with the museum as you can do the garden, dome etc after it shuts. Remember it gets dark at around 7pm in Japan - they are in the wrong time zone and the days aren't as long anyway.
The second day in Hiroshima, up early, streetcar down to the port and ferry over to Miyajima. Allow 2 hours to get back to the train (check this as it is a few years since I went...!). You can leave baggage at the hotel - usually very close to the station - or at the station in left luggage lockers or at the left luggage office. The Japanican tickets are reserved seats on a specific train. If you miss it, don't worry! You can catch a later train but you will need to travel in the unreserved cars back to Tokyo. You may end up standing....