RadWeld on a TVR....
Discussion
Morning...
I've got a leaking radiator and just want to know if it's OK to use RadWeld (or similar) on a Chimaera 500, just as a temp measure of course, until I can afford a new alloy rad and get the car booked in somewhere....
Anyway one had any experiences of using it on a TVR.
ta
James
I've got a leaking radiator and just want to know if it's OK to use RadWeld (or similar) on a Chimaera 500, just as a temp measure of course, until I can afford a new alloy rad and get the car booked in somewhere....
Anyway one had any experiences of using it on a TVR.
ta
James
You'll get flamed for suggesting such actions!
But not from me. Mine sprang a very small leak a while back and so off I trotted to my mate the motor factor, he said he had a product better than radweld that would do the trick, I can't remember the name, but it comes in little silver packets and is little flakes of 'stuff' cost a few quid each. I dropped them in and it's not lost a drop of water since, engine temperatures have been perfect as always and nothing has exploded.
I'll pop down later and get him to tell me what it was.
So far it's been in probably over 5 years and all good.
But not from me. Mine sprang a very small leak a while back and so off I trotted to my mate the motor factor, he said he had a product better than radweld that would do the trick, I can't remember the name, but it comes in little silver packets and is little flakes of 'stuff' cost a few quid each. I dropped them in and it's not lost a drop of water since, engine temperatures have been perfect as always and nothing has exploded.
I'll pop down later and get him to tell me what it was.
So far it's been in probably over 5 years and all good.
Mark - Cheers, will be interested to know what that "stuff" is...
Ribol - yeah that was/is the concern I guess, but I figure that once a new rad is fitted then the cooling system would get flushed through, especially if I mentioned I'd used something like RadWeld. Trouble is I need to do something just for a few weeks as I'm loosing coolant everytime I drive it anywhere and I'll be buggered if I can get the top off the tank to add more antifreeze in, whoever did it up meant it to stay on!
Ribol - yeah that was/is the concern I guess, but I figure that once a new rad is fitted then the cooling system would get flushed through, especially if I mentioned I'd used something like RadWeld. Trouble is I need to do something just for a few weeks as I'm loosing coolant everytime I drive it anywhere and I'll be buggered if I can get the top off the tank to add more antifreeze in, whoever did it up meant it to stay on!
Pepsi_x said:
Ribol - yeah that was/is the concern I guess, but I figure that once a new rad is fitted then the cooling system would get flushed through, especially if I mentioned I'd used something like RadWeld. Trouble is I need to do something just for a few weeks as I'm loosing coolant everytime I drive it anywhere and I'll be buggered if I can get the top off the tank to add more antifreeze in, whoever did it up meant it to stay on!
Radweld would be the last one on my list, if I had to have a list then Wynns would be at the top of it - none of them flush out.I have in the past used wynns myself, where a leak could not be found with a pressure tester. At that point you have nothing to lose by trying it because the alternative is generally a lot of work. At some point the tank top will have to come off anyway, it is only a Golf one (cheap) so damaging isn't the end of the world and running the car with just water in it isn't ideal either.
Don't dismiss a rad recore, a lot cheaper than a nice shiny ally rad and lasts about the same if done properly.
Defo having new rad, it was recored once about 6-7 years ago, so maybe it's time for new rad anyway, a 2nd recore might be a false econonmy by now.
I've got one of Steve Heath's hexagonal/magnetic tops on the tank at the moment, but it just wont budge (or maybe I am just a wuss who knows). Maybe you're right, perhapes I'll just have to take the finanical hit a bit sooner than I had hoped, it's probably better than ending up with RadWeld or whatever floating around the system....
Silly question...can you add the coolant/antifreeze into what I believe is called the swirl or expansion tank (the one with the blue Audi cap on) ?
I've got one of Steve Heath's hexagonal/magnetic tops on the tank at the moment, but it just wont budge (or maybe I am just a wuss who knows). Maybe you're right, perhapes I'll just have to take the finanical hit a bit sooner than I had hoped, it's probably better than ending up with RadWeld or whatever floating around the system....
Silly question...can you add the coolant/antifreeze into what I believe is called the swirl or expansion tank (the one with the blue Audi cap on) ?
Edited by Pepsi_x on Monday 18th June 12:55
This is the stuff
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_...
You want the small one that is little flakes
Like I say, worked a treat with no ill effects, lets be honest, they are not particularly technical engines. Though I'd never put this stuff in my AJP8
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_...
You want the small one that is little flakes
Like I say, worked a treat with no ill effects, lets be honest, they are not particularly technical engines. Though I'd never put this stuff in my AJP8
http://www.kalimex.co.uk/
I used this in my griff 500 and it worked really well.
Kept me going until I could get the rad re-cored.
p.s. It doesn't have large solids in suspension and so can't clog up the heater matrix.
I used this in my griff 500 and it worked really well.
Kept me going until I could get the rad re-cored.
p.s. It doesn't have large solids in suspension and so can't clog up the heater matrix.
Edited by 737 FLF on Monday 18th June 15:01
Pepsi_x said:
Defo having new rad, it was recored once about 6-7 years ago, so maybe it's time for new rad anyway, a 2nd recore might be a false econonmy by now.
New rad - great, why not.But for the benefit of others reading this, are you aware that the only parts re-used with a recore are the end tanks and brackets, neither of which wear out or age?
Cheers for that. In all honesty I had no idea what goes into a recore.
I asked one of the local TVR garages for advice when it waspointed out I had a leak, and since it had previously been recored, they said a new radiator was the best option.
But can someone tell me which tank I should put some coolant in. Is it the one with the plastic blue Audi top (I think thats the expansion tank), as I just want to keep it topped up for now after each journey until I get booked in....
I asked one of the local TVR garages for advice when it waspointed out I had a leak, and since it had previously been recored, they said a new radiator was the best option.
But can someone tell me which tank I should put some coolant in. Is it the one with the plastic blue Audi top (I think thats the expansion tank), as I just want to keep it topped up for now after each journey until I get booked in....
Ribol said:
Pepsi_x said:
Ribol - yeah that was/is the concern I guess, but I figure that once a new rad is fitted then the cooling system would get flushed through, especially if I mentioned I'd used something like RadWeld. Trouble is I need to do something just for a few weeks as I'm loosing coolant everytime I drive it anywhere and I'll be buggered if I can get the top off the tank to add more antifreeze in, whoever did it up meant it to stay on!
Radweld would be the last one on my list, if I had to have a list then Wynns would be at the top of it - none of them flush out.I have in the past used wynns myself, where a leak could not be found with a pressure tester. At that point you have nothing to lose by trying it because the alternative is generally a lot of work. At some point the tank top will have to come off anyway, it is only a Golf one (cheap) so damaging isn't the end of the world and running the car with just water in it isn't ideal either.
Don't dismiss a rad recore, a lot cheaper than a nice shiny ally rad and lasts about the same if done properly.
have used Wynns stop leak over the years(OK a very long time 
) to get people out of trouble and have never suffered ill effects, its the only one I would recommend 
Kalimax K seal can fix some real gushers but I would never use it in my cooling system (too many particles) and leaves gold residue everywhere 
I must however emphasize do not under any circumstances use Bars-leaks 
you may as well crap into the cooling system rather than use that one 
of course no matter what you use its only temporary 
Edited by Simon says on Monday 18th June 15:40
Brilliant, many thanks.... I'll give it a top up for now and get booked in ASAP for a nice new alloy rad.....got quoted £615 from TVR Power, and £750 elsewhere, so I guess I know where I am going
Recore would be a couple of hundred cheaper I guess, but I'll treat the car to a new one this time lol...
Once again, cheers for the advice
Recore would be a couple of hundred cheaper I guess, but I'll treat the car to a new one this time lol...
Once again, cheers for the advice
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Ribol said:
Simon says said:
....................... you may as well crap into the cooling system rather than use that one
True class always shows through
My Dad did it to his Open commordore ,got us back from Skeggness.
Simon says said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Ribol said:
Simon says said:
....................... you may as well crap into the cooling system rather than use that one
True class always shows through
My Dad did it to his Open commordore ,got us back from Skeggness.
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