Changing discs and pads today - what do I really need?
Changing discs and pads today - what do I really need?
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Discussion

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

200 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
So the job for today is to replace all 4 brakes - discs and pads. The car is a 2004 MX-5 and this is the first big job I've done on the car so I'm a complete novice. That said, I've read a lot and am eager to learn.

The various brake changing guides for this car recommend various things. I'm not sure if I need the following:

1. G-Clamp
2. Anti Seize/Copper grease (Does this normally come with pads anyway?)
3. Lithium grease for sliding pins in calipers
4. Axle Stands
5. Wire wool for cleaning brake discs
6. Brake disc cleaner fluid

Can someone with more experience of changing these parts give me some advice?

Will be popping into Halfords before I start the work so I can buy the stuff needed.

Chris Type R

8,582 posts

269 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
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You might end up needing an Impact Driver.

eltax91

10,509 posts

226 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
A jack? Oh and some gloves. Should be pretty sound then. I'm assuming you already have a socket set?

Pretty sure the rear calipers are 'push' type on the mx5. It's not like my VAG which needs ideally a special wind back tool.

devnull

3,846 posts

177 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Copper Grease may or may not come with the pads, you could be cheeky and ask the motor factors guy if he has a spare few sachets of it - if it's the only time you'll be doing it, then its a bit of a pain paying £3 for a large tin of the stuff, since you'll only need a small smear.

Baked_bean

1,937 posts

212 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Rear calipers need winding back with an allen key i believe..... But the fronts are the normal push back type.

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

200 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
OK I should have been clearer: I've got the obvious stuff but from the list I'm not sure what I'll need and what's excessive.

So which of the items on the list do I need?

Fartgalen

6,812 posts

227 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
For new discs, I don't think you need wire wool. Just some cleaner to remove the oil film that new discs have on them.
Never done brakes on an Mx5 but I also thought the rear calipes are the wind-back type.

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

200 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Fartgalen said:
For new discs, I don't think you need wire wool. Just some cleaner to remove the oil film that new discs have on them.
Never done brakes on an Mx5 but I also thought the rear calipes are the wind-back type.
Ah thanks - yes I believe they need an allens key to adjust. But how about for the fronts?

joe_90

4,206 posts

251 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Take the lid of the brake fluid reservoir to make it easy to wind in.

LuS1fer

43,017 posts

265 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
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Theoretically a nose mask so you don't breathe in any carcinogens.

ReedyGT

353 posts

196 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Wire brush for cleaning calipers, correct tools for removal and refit... IPA (Isoprpyl Alcohol/Rubbing alcohol) for cleaning the discs, copper slip for backs of pads and contact surface to hub and wheel on the disc.... Brake fuid receptacle for catching the excess when winding/pushing piston in caliper back - a bit of vac hose is handy to put on the nipple to direct fluid...

Most importantly - time and patience - If you have not done it before, then it will take a lot longer than you think it will!

Prof Prolapse

16,163 posts

210 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Baked_bean said:
Rear calipers need winding back with an allen key i believe..... But the fronts are the normal push back type.
Unless they changed them for 2004 I think you're correct.

Rear ones are bit more fiddly, theres a bolt you take off on the caliper that reveals a spine key. You rotate this all the way back to remove. After refitting you then use a feeler guage to get the distance quoted from disc to pad (can't remember what it is use google) take it for a run and measure it again.

Be careful not turn the spline key too hard. It will muller the end fairly easily.

That said I haven't done it in about half a decade.

I wouldn't piss around with wire wool.

Edited by Prof Prolapse on Tuesday 19th June 09:40

Ozzie Osmond

21,189 posts

266 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
ReedyGT said:
Most importantly - time and patience - If you have not done it before, then it will take a lot longer than you think it will!
^^^ This

mnkiboy

4,409 posts

186 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
ReedyGT said:
Most importantly - time and patience - If you have not done it before, then it will take a lot longer than you think it will!
This.

The first time I changed pads and discs I couldn't remove the discs from the hub. As hard as I hit it with a mallet it wouldn't budge. Ended up having to cut through the discs with a hacksaw until they dropped off. My 2 hour job took a whole weekend!

Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

169 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
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Any home mechanic will tell you that where the first wheel takes x amount of time, the corresponding wheel will take x/2. That is the pure benefit of experience, so if there's anyone experienced to offer decent advice - take it!

balls-out

3,794 posts

251 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
.blue said:
OK I should have been clearer: I've got the obvious stuff but from the list I'm not sure what I'll need and what's excessive.

So which of the items on the list do I need?
from that list you definately need axle stands.
The disk will be coated in something to protect it. thinners, petrol, meths etc should be fine to clean it off - you don't need to buy a special brake cleaner (IMHO)

Whilst it's a straight forward task, brakes are perhaps not the perfect first task to do, but if you are slow and careful, and have workshop manual you should be fine.
Do you have torque wrench - I don't know mx5s but I expect the calipers may need to come off, so those bolts should be done right.
Take photos at every step as you take it apart. then when you can't work out which side the clip etc goes on, you can look and see. In the same manner I would do one side and then the other, so you can use the second side as a reference if you can't work out how to get the first back together.

> Wire wool for cleaning brake discs
thats a new one on me. I wouldn't attack new discs with wire wool



Edited by balls-out on Tuesday 19th June 09:37

Pete Franklin

849 posts

201 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Pretty easy on an MX5- 3 bolts holding on the caliper and access is pretty good. if you need to bleed the brakes through- which is probably worth doing as you are at it, I would recommend getting some release fluid as the nipples have an annoying tendancy to sieze and when they do its easy to round the nut as its only 6 or 8mm (I cant remember which). Some 6-8mm fish tank tubing is very handy too as it stops air going back into the caliper when you are bleeding it. like others have said the handbrake needs to be wound back in (at the back of the caliper) once fitted otherwise it wont work.

Riknos

4,701 posts

224 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Halfords shock and unlock, or similar to remove stubborn bolts. MX5 discs and pads are a piece of piss to change. The easiest car I've ever worked on; bar all the rusted on parts anyway...

Fish981

1,441 posts

205 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
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Thread lock, torque wrench, means for cleaning rust off the disc mounting surface.

markCSC

2,987 posts

235 months

Tuesday 19th June 2012
quotequote all
Fartgalen said:
For new discs, I don't think you need wire wool. Just some cleaner to remove the oil film that new discs have on them.
.
Nail varnish remover is also good for this. Just don't tell the wife smile