3000S cutting out problem.

[nwarner]

Hi

My 3000S has started cutting out. I'm 99.9% positive that it's ignition related not petrol as it stops instantly, the ignition light comes on and the rev counter drops to zero. So far it will always restart after 10 to 30 seconds. I have replaced the coil, ballast resistor, changed from points to electronic ignition and remade all the wiring connectors to the battery, coil, ballast resistor and distributor. It's difficult to get to the bottom of as it always restarts and may run for 15 minutes or more before doing it again. The only other thing I can think of it being is the ignition switch but the shear bolts have rusted in so I can't shift them without drilling them out and the tiny screws holding the plastic switch part to the lock have also rusted and been rounded off so I don't want to try and remove it unless absolutely necessary incase I end up breaking something as I imagine they are difficult to get a replacement. Has anyone any other ideas as it's a bit dangerous when it decides to cut out when pulling out of a junction.

Thanks

Nige

[Adrian@]

I have to assume that the ignition is NOT connected directly to the coil and that the new coil is a ballasted version.

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 19th June 10:01

ETA

That type of info might be better via email me thinks.

Edited by Big Al. on Tuesday 19th June 18:13

[nwarner]

Adrian@ said:

:cenored:

I have to assume that the ignition is NOT connected directly to the coil and that the new coil is a ballasted version.

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 19th June 10:01

Thanks Adrian I will give that a try. Yes the ignition is NOT connected directly to the coil and the new coil is definately a ballasted version.

Edited by Big Al. on Tuesday 19th June 18:13

[ATE399J]

Engine block earth strap ?

[phillpot]

My Taimar did something similar on the way to Chatsworth, turned out to be nothing more serious than a loose fuse.

[nwarner]

I have checked the engine earth strap and cleaned the ends so I don't think it's that but I will check the fuses as well as Adrian's suggestion.

Nige

[ATE399J]

Do the temp sender / fuel gauge etc. stop working or just the motor pack up?

[Adrian@]

The tell tale power failing would be the rev counter... fuel and temp are ran from the voltage stabiliser at 10v, the fuse box is always worth a check esp. if you have plates within the glass fuse instead of wire, IMHO plate type glass fuses are a failure waiting to happen and I throw them away every time.
Adrian@

[nwarner]

I replaced all 4 fuses just incase and it still cut out. I tried Adrians bypass and the car ran for over 30 minutes with no problem. I have managed to get the electronic part of the ignition switch free and out of the car and looking at the state of it I think that could well be the problem. I thought it might be the same as a TR7 one I have but the TR7 one I have only has 4 wires coming out of it and a 5 pin connector block but this has 8 wires in a 9 pin connector block and one of the wires (green black) at the ignition end has a spade terminal and that fits seperately to a spade terminal on the bottom of the ignition barrel. So it looks like I will need a new one.

[tvrbuell]

Another area to check, if the live from the ignition goes through the rev counter before getting to the coil is that the bracket holding the rev counter is tight and has not moved so shorting out the live feed at the rev counter. I had this and was very difficult to find as car would run fine then just cut out, then fire up and run fine. I went through every thing in the ignition system before I found it.

[brhmtvrs]

I have had a problem with mine cutting out being caused by the power connection going through the firewall. It would lose all power but wiggling the connection would get it going again. It has happened several times and by cleaning the connections and tighten it I have not had the problem lately.

Bill

[Adrian@]

tvrbuell said:

Another area to check, if the live from the ignition goes through the rev counter before getting to the coil is that the bracket holding the rev counter is tight and has not moved so shorting out the live feed at the rev counter. I had this and was very difficult to find as car would run fine then just cut out, then fire up and run fine. I went through every thing in the ignition system before I found it.

This is an issue that could only be related to the RVC type rev counter fitted to cars up to 74 ish.
Adrian@

[Adrian@]

brhmtvrs said:

I have had a problem with mine cutting out being caused by the power connection going through the firewall. It would lose all power but wiggling the connection would get it going again. It has happened several times and by cleaning the connections and tighten it I have not had the problem lately.

Bill

THIS IS THE most common fault in + and- post versions of TVR wiring looms (these are cars from late 76 to late 78) and owners with them should consider rebuilding this as a it WILL let them down at some point (only very early 3000S's have this system).
Adrian@

[Adrian@]

Nigel you best call me.
Adrian@