red+black and green ignition wire
red+black and green ignition wire
Author
Discussion

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

179 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
Which one should go on the + and which one on the - side of the coil??? I seriously don't understand the coloring on these and they're supposed to be on it.

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
Red is traditionally a supply wire colour, black and green are generally earthy colours... whistle

If it goes bang, Comadis told you to do it.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
Measure it with a voltmeter? See which one is the +.

hallsie

2,185 posts

250 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
where is comedydis, I miss his errrrrr, take on the wedge!!!

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

179 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
so i found out this weird situation, my coil has + wire (white) - wires (white/black) a capacitator mounted on the wheelarch (black, what coil side should it be on?) and those red/black and green wires go to some O shaped kind of diagnostic plug near the crankshaft pulley...

mrzigazaga

18,816 posts

195 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
hallsie said:
where is comedydis, I miss his errrrrr, take on the wedge!!!
He got banned from the wedge forum..Shame really cos i liked his "Do it now" attitude..

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
This helps?



And maybe this too?



Indeed, everything you need, plus some extra reading material, if you want any help with your ignition!

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

179 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
honestjohntoo said:
This helps?

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats it! BR = + on coil and G = - on coil for diagnostics.

Finally i know for sure!

Now for sorting my ignition out cause it still won't spark with 12v on the + side of the coil and on the amplifier.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
So - W/B is negative then...

Not means as criticism Ramon, but where you have "hall effect sensor" above, I think as an alternative they also used a pickup coil for the same purpose - because once one of mine got destroyed and loads of fine copper wire came out of it - not that they (or the diagnostic plug) are ever used by us lot....

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
It's all "hall effect" Adam.

The 'hall effect' is the production of a voltage difference (the Hall voltage) across a current carrying conductor lying in a changing magnetic field. Discovered in 1879.

From your observation, my interpretation for the SD1 V8 application, is that the electronic circuitry was in the test machine connected to pins 2 and 3, and, the 'hall effect' sensor was merely a coil of wire wrapped around a current carrying conductor shown connected to pins 2 and 3.

I bet that even the technicians trained to use the test machine had no idea, only the original clever design engineer! Who He?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
Errm - here we go.... ;^)

Yes I know how the Hall effect works. Typically you have a semiconductor (e.g. doped silicon) through which you send a current between two electrodes. Then there is a third/fourth electrode at right angles (i.e. along the sides of the semiconductor). With no magnetic field the sense electrodes have no voltage across them. When you apply a magnetic field the first current starts to curve - it gets deflected much like the electron beam in an old telly. Then you start to get a voltage across the sense electrodes.

The point is that the Hall effect doesn't use a coil, it usually uses a bar of semiconductor. The one that I destroyed (the diagnostic pickup, not the pickup inside the dizzy) had coils of fine wire in it, so that's why I think that particular one wasn't a hall effect sensor, but an inductive pickup. I agree that you probably have only seen Hall effect sensors on your SDi's, but just noting that there might be two types out there.

Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 27th June 08:20

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
vampire222 said:
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats it! BR = + on coil and G = - on coil for diagnostics.

Finally i know for sure!

Now for sorting my ignition out cause it still won't spark with 12v on the + side of the coil and on the amplifier.
You knew for sure before that. Why did you need to see a drawing to confirm it? Even Haynes got it wrong sometimes.

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
The point is that the Hall effect doesn't use a coil, it usually uses a bar of semiconductor. The one that I destroyed had coils of fine wire in it, so that's why I think that particular one hawasn't a hall effect sensor, but an inductive pickup. I agree that you probably have only seen Hall effect sensors on your SDi's, but just noting that there might be two types out there.
Correct, the 35DLM8 distributor uses an inductive pickup. They do fail as well, probably from thermal cycling and vibration (copper work-hardens).

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

179 months

Wednesday 27th June 2012
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Correct, the 35DLM8 distributor uses an inductive pickup. They do fail as well, probably from thermal cycling and vibration (copper work-hardens).
I hope it's not dead on mine, is there any easy test for that like with a multimeter?

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Wednesday 27th June 2012
quotequote all
vampire222 said:
I hope it's not dead on mine, is there any easy test for that like with a multimeter?
vampire222 said:
Does anyone know whether the 35DLM8 ignition will need a condenser mounted to the coil - to work properly, and if so how can i check whether mine is still ok???
Read

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Wednesday 27th June 2012
quotequote all
vampire222 said:
I hope it's not dead on mine, is there any easy test for that like with a multimeter?
Yep, meter on low Ohms range (or auto), should be a few tens or couple of hundred Ohms (haven't got my file to hand but it's only lots of turns of very thin wire). If it's up in Megohms, it's knackered biggrin But by then you'd know, because the car won't start.

Edit: no condenser required; that's usually required with points ignition or, rarely these days, with capacitor-discharge ignition systems (CDI) - more usually found on motorcycles but once also beloved as projects in electronics magazines.

Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 27th June 14:23