SEAC brakes when hot
Discussion
Odd issue on the SEAC...
Brakes are fine - drive the car for 15 miles or so, still fine. Park for 10 minutes. Get in car, press brake pedal and foot goes flat to floor. Pump pedal once, everything fine. No fluid leaks and reservoir at correct level.
It did this driving back from picking up and also this evening. Any ideas?
Chris
Brakes are fine - drive the car for 15 miles or so, still fine. Park for 10 minutes. Get in car, press brake pedal and foot goes flat to floor. Pump pedal once, everything fine. No fluid leaks and reservoir at correct level.
It did this driving back from picking up and also this evening. Any ideas?
Chris
It means the seals of your master cylinder are sometimes "glueing" inside the cylinder tube , just replace the seals of the mastercilinder : it can happen when a car is not used enough ; to avoid ; just use the brakes once in a month when the car is not used or driven
One tip more ; remove brake pads and sand them a little bit too , because the surface can be too smooth
I had same problem with my wedge a few years ago
and I use Mintex blue fluid ; it is a very good quality
cheers Paul
One tip more ; remove brake pads and sand them a little bit too , because the surface can be too smooth
I had same problem with my wedge a few years ago
and I use Mintex blue fluid ; it is a very good quality
cheers Paul
Chris, it could be a sticking / binding caliper. Drive for a bit, brakes binding, calipers and discs get very hot. Stop, heat transfers to brake fluid in caliper and boils causing bubbles. Should not be a major problem to jack up the car and make sure nothing is binding, check the caliper pistons are all free and the pads are not stuck to the calipers. Changing the brake fluid would also be a very good idea. Dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point than 4.1, if you are working the brakes hard it helps with brake fade
Well that would be a real shame but as you say - its very dangerous to drive it like that..
Parts list here (350) :
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_parts.html
but with most things - you cannot always assume the part on your car is the same as it was built with..
Best to check the serial number on your master cylinder .. make sure you look at the brake and not the clutch cylinder. Mine is Girling 74660296 2344
Richard Thorpe at RT racing would be a good source of information.
Repair kit on ebay which may be the right one..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Cortina-Capri-Escor...
More here ..
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=20&...
Parts list here (350) :
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_parts.html
but with most things - you cannot always assume the part on your car is the same as it was built with..
Best to check the serial number on your master cylinder .. make sure you look at the brake and not the clutch cylinder. Mine is Girling 74660296 2344
Richard Thorpe at RT racing would be a good source of information.
Repair kit on ebay which may be the right one..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Cortina-Capri-Escor...
More here ..
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=20&...
Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 26th June 12:09
If the fluid boils it tends to push fluid out of the reservoir - so if it's going up and down that would be a strong pointer to the boiling rather than the master.
It's fairly simple to check for binding calipers, but you have to drive it preferably without using the brakes at all to see which one is heating up on its own.
Do the master first, fresh fluid, then check for binding. Should be do-able before the fest - a few hours work.
It's fairly simple to check for binding calipers, but you have to drive it preferably without using the brakes at all to see which one is heating up on its own.
Do the master first, fresh fluid, then check for binding. Should be do-able before the fest - a few hours work.
Snow Mole said:
Hi Chris
I thought that the previous owner had a problem with this - has he any ideas?
Richard
I never had the problem and had already emailed ChrisI thought that the previous owner had a problem with this - has he any ideas?
Richard
I have probably contributed to it by lack of use

The 2 brake related issues that were fixed recently were a stuck OSF caliper which was rebuilt and a binding handbrake pad which was adjusted.
These people are good for seal kits: http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/wcylinder.html#c...
and I think I may have a spare cylinder (unknown condition) if you need it Chris
chj said:
Okay, safety first - SEAC won't be going to wedgefest 
Can anyone tell me what car is the master cylinder from or part number?
Thank you, Chris.
Ford cortina mk3 , you can put that into e-bay and should get some suppliers , make sure its the same as your master cylinder ie same plastic resovoir shape.
Can anyone tell me what car is the master cylinder from or part number?
Thank you, Chris.
Thank you for all the replies. I think it makes sense to change the cylinder and fluid as a precaution in any case. This looks like it might be the one ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-TASMIN-BRAKE-MASTER-...
Number stamped on the side of mine is Girling 46602945 0318 - not identical but similar. Interestingly although the part looks identical, the one on my 400se is also numbered differently but again similar. The only other common factor is that the red ring identifier on both starts with 66231 and later has 38/62 in the middle.
I'll make a few calls in the morning.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-TASMIN-BRAKE-MASTER-...
Number stamped on the side of mine is Girling 46602945 0318 - not identical but similar. Interestingly although the part looks identical, the one on my 400se is also numbered differently but again similar. The only other common factor is that the red ring identifier on both starts with 66231 and later has 38/62 in the middle.
I'll make a few calls in the morning.
dixiebabes said:
njhucker said:
I have had this on 2 wedges I have owned. Both were due to pistons rear calipers sticking, after periods of no use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I would agree with this!!!Dix
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