Is it worth the extra.

[steady eddie]

Considering buying a Boxster from Specialist Cars of Malton
The prices are higher than other specialists so I beg the question "Is it worth the extra"
Perhaps some pistonheaders who have used this indie would care to comment.

Steady Eddie

[khushy]

Its not worth more and you are a mug if you buy it considering your own comparison and observation. As soon as you drivei it off the forecourt, it will be worth what everything else is PLUS there are thousands of boxsters around.

Find another one or screw em down.

[mollytherocker]

There is no real answer this, its purely subjective. What do you want?

Which one is it?

MTR

[Magic919]

I presume it's the one they have for sale.

[Junior Bianno]

They only seem to have one at the moment - guards red 2.5 - and if that's it I would say definitely no. £10k would get you a REALLY nice 3.2s - if that's your budget

[BillyB]

In simple terms you are paying for their warranty. From what I have read, they seem to pay cover anything going wrong, and if you are not local, at a garage of your choice. That's a pretty rare service. Only you can decide if it is worth it

[james280779]

BillyB said:

In simple terms you are paying for their warranty. From what I have read, they seem to pay cover anything going wrong, and if you are not local, at a garage of your choice. That's a pretty rare service. Only you can decide if it is worth it

you can buy the same warranties yourself direct from the supplier for a fraction of the price. That warranty also allows you to have the car repaired in a garage of your choice.
The last warranty I got this way covered absolutely everything except tyres, brakes and exhaust. In that year I had a new radiator, new shock and some small electrics done. well worth the 600 gbp I paid for a year cover (a little more for monthly so about 65 a month)
In my opinion that totally negates the need for a dealer!

I think there is a 10 year age limit if I remember rightly with most

[anonymous-user]

What you are paying a premium for is the peace of mind that the car will be a decent example. Well worth it IF you don't know these cars inside out. There are lots of cheap money pits out there for the inexperienced. IF you do know the cars well then you can certainly buy one much cheaper elsewhere.

[Porkupine]

uktrailmonster said:

What you are paying a premium for is the peace of mind that the car will be a decent example. Well worth it IF you don't know these cars inside out. There are lots of cheap money pits out there for the inexperienced. IF you do know the cars well then you can certainly buy one much cheaper elsewhere.

Or just look elsewhere and get a thorough PPI done?

[anonymous-user]

Porkupine said:

Or just look elsewhere and get a thorough PPI done?

Possibly, but a thorough PPI will eat into the savings, especially on a 2.5 Boxster (assuming that's what this is). I have no affiliation with SC of M, but they do have an outstanding reputation in preparing their cars to the highest standards. This could amount to a good few grands worth of prep work on an old Boxster. There's a thread running at the moment reminding us of the potential cost of servicing one of these cars if a bit of work is required (£4K bill for the usual niggles).

As another option, might be worth checking Henry's stock at 911V. He always seems to price fairly keenly and has quality stock. Again no affiliation, just a suggestion. Lots of other respectable indys around too that are usually cheaper than SC of M.

[mollytherocker]

Porkupine said:

Or just look elsewhere and get a thorough PPI done?

But this guarantees nothing. you might reject 10 cars costing you 3k!

MTR

[996ttalot]

You give you perspective - just been offered one owner 35k mileage 3.2 starting with a 7 in front if it and it is mint

[Wozy68]

steady eddie said:

Considering buying a Boxster from Specialist Cars of Malton
The prices are higher than other specialists so I beg the question "Is it worth the extra"
Perhaps some pistonheaders who have used this indie would care to comment.

Steady Eddie

IMO, I would consider somewhere else, for the same car (or better) for half the price.

[Junior Bianno]

Put it this way. Buy a 1999 2.5 at the going rate. If it goes wrong, bin it and buy another one. That's pretty much the price differential you're talking about for the SCOM car.

[dibblecorse]

Junior Bianno said:

Put it this way. Buy a 1999 2.5 at the going rate. If it goes wrong, bin it and buy another one. That's pretty much the price differential you're talking about for the SCOM car.

Sound about right, decent 2.5's are easily available between 5-7k, that leaves a lot of 'just in case' cash.

[willmac]

That's an expensive Boxster from what I can see.
But I guess they are renowned for being at the high end price wise, presumably due to the cost of warranty being included.
I'm sure it's a good car, but would not be priced keenly enough for me to be tempted even with a belt and braces warranty.

A good warranty is fantastic for peace of mind. But should you not need it within 12 months of ownership then you can feel a bit deflated as having paid well over the odds for something you havent needed or used. Comes down to being a bit of a gamble either way I suppose ?

Bottom line , 10k for a 2.5 Boxster, warranty or not . NO

Edited by willmac on Wednesday 27th June 12:38

[anonymous-user]

Most of the £5k cars kicking around need plenty of work. Example below (not saying this particular car is in anyway a shed, just needs some fairly routine work which soon adds up).
You have always got to consider total cost of ownership with cars like this. Variation in condition among 12+ year old cars is enormous. No doubt the Malton car is very expensive, but it will also no doubt be at the prime end of the condition spectrum too. It's pointless stating that this and that car are better value until you actually see them up front and start running them.

Premium indys like Malton are great for buyers who simply want a top condition car and don't have either the time or expertise to go wading through all the sheds on the market and of course don't mind paying a premium for it. Paragon are another dealer that springs to mind in this category. Meticulous prep, bullet-proof support and prices to match.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

[anonymous-user]

james280779 said:

The last warranty I got this way covered absolutely everything except tyres, brakes and exhaust. In that year I had a new radiator, new shock and some small electrics done. well worth the 600 gbp I paid for a year cover (a little more for

A LOT of people would be interested to know about this warranty (if it actually covers anything remotely serious going wrong). Haven't heard anything good about third party warranties on this forum. The difference with a reputable Porsche Indy is that they would most likely stand behind the car regardless of the underlying warranty. I don't think Malton are the type of dealer who would try to wriggle out of putting a car right. But if you simply take out a third party warranty yourself, should you make a claim, the warranty company will make a special effort not to pay out if at all possible and there would be no dealer support. Tons of past history on this forum with warranty woe stories. The only warranties that appear to be worth having on a Porsche are OPC warranties or some of the more elite Porsche Indy warranties - like Hartech, RSJ, SCoM etc.

[james280779]

Ok its gone up a bit since I did it (5 years ago)

I entered a 2006 911 carrera 4 coupe with 70k miles.

For the full shabang including MOT identified faults its 875 quid a year.

It may not be suitable for older cars, the reason being that after 6 years they state the parts are no longer new (unless less than 6 years old). therefore by replacing them your car is better than it was and therefore they only pay a pecentage. For example if your car is eight years old and your gearbox goes bang. They pay 80% of the cost for the part and 100% labour. You also get a free courtesy car. Whereas if the car is 6 years old you pay nothing.

The older the car the lower the percentage they cover.

below is exactly mechanically / electrically what is covered

WHATS COVERED:

Engine
All internally lubricated parts, including but not exclusive to the following: cam followers, camshaft bearings, camshaft/s, connecting rods and bearings, crankshaft and bearings, cylinder bores, cylinder head, cylinder liners, distributor drive, gudgeon pins, liner seals, oil pump and drive, piston rings, pistons, rocker gear/ tappet gear, timing chain and timing chain tensioner, valve guides, valve springs, valves (excl. decarbonisation, burnt or pitted valves and valve seats), cylinder block, internal bushings, rear main seal Specified non-lubricated parts: cylinder head gasket, exhaust manifolds, flex plate/ auto drive plate, inlet manifolds, timing gears, cambelt and cambelt tensioner, crankshaft pulley, flywheel, ring gear, starter ring gear

Turbo
Intercooler, turbocharger, wastegate and actuator

Clutch
Clutch cable, master cylinder, pedal assembly, slave cylinder

Manual transmission
Bearings, bushes, extension shaft, gears, selector shafts and forks, shafts, synchromesh hubs and rings, drive chains, gearlever

Automatic transmission
Automatic transmission clutches, bearings, brake bands, bushes, extension shaft, gears, internal governor (manual and electric), oil pump, servos, shafts, torque converter, valve block, valves, drive chains, gearlever, input shaft oil seal, modulator valve

Front Wheel Drive Unit
Bushes and internal bearings, C.V. joints, crown wheel and pinion, differential gears and bearings, external drive shafts, front wheel bearings, universal joints, drive flange, hubs, rubber boots

Rear axle
Bushes and internal bearings, C.V. joints, crown wheel and pinion, differential gears and bearings, external drive shafts, rear wheel bearings, drive flange, hubs, rubber boots

Four Wheel Drive System
Bushes and internal bearings, C.V. joints, couplings, front differential, inter-axle differential and lock, rear differential and lock, shafts, drive flange, hubs, rubber boots

Propshaft
Centre bearings, universal joints, propshaft

Suspension
Bushes, pump, regulator valve, reservoir, self leveling suspension unit, shock absorbers/ dampers, spheres, springs, upper and lower wishbones/ control arms

ECUs
Engine ECU, all other ECUs.

Braking System
Brake servo unit, calipers, brake master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake pedal assembly, diesel vacuum pump, handbrake control cables and linkages, pressure regulator, self-adjusting mechanisms

ABS
ABS pressure reducing and proportioning valves, ABS pump and control unit, ABS sensors

Cooling System
Heater matrix, radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, viscous fan coupling, water pump, engine oil cooler, temperature gauge.

Steering
Column shaft, couplings, idler box, power steering unit including pump, pressure pipes, rack and pinion, reservoir, steering box, steering column tilt mechanism, track rods/ track rod ends

Fuel System
Airflow meter, cold start injector, diesel injectors, fuel distributor, fuel gauge, injection pumps, low pressure pumps, petrol injectors, tank sender unit, warm-up regulator, electromagnetic cut-off, fuel injector cooling system, glow plugs, overrun cut-off valve, pressure regulator, sensors, throttle body, barometric pressure sensor, fuel temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor, mass air flow sensor, throttle body assembly (MFI)

Electronic Ignition
Camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition coils

Air Conditioning
Air conditioning compressor pump, condenser, evaporator, fan control and sensors, magnetic clutch, refrigerant valves, reservoir, sensors

Electrics
Alternator, alternator voltage regulator, engine cooling fan motor, electric window motors, front windscreen wiper motor, rear windscreen wiper motor, interior cabin fan motor, horn, indicator flasher unit, starter motor, central locking solenoids and motors, cruise control unit, electric door mirror motors, aerial motor, electric sunroof motors, headlamp adjustor motors, relays, rev counter

Bodywork
Tailgate suspension struts

Casings
Casings are covered provided they have been damaged as a direct result of the covered failure of an insured part.

Alarm systems and immobilisers
Alarm systems and immobilisers are covered provided they were factory fitted by the vehicle manufacturer as part of the vehicle's original specification.

Oil Seals and Gaskets
Oil leaks that necessitate the removal of the engine, gearbox/ drive unit, driveshaft or differential unit to carry out repairs.



Like I said, I had nothing but good service and everything was approved within a couple of hours. The suspension I mentioned was an MOT identified fault. The garage just stated non standard wear and tear and it was approved.

here is the link

http://warranties.telegraph.co.uk/quote_page1.html

Edited by james280779 on Thursday 28th June 02:12

[BillyB]

So it is a Warranty Direct policy. The list sounds great, and your experiences also sound good. But the general feedback about Warranty Direct isn't so positive IME.