HELP PLEASE !Throttle Adjustment

[Digga]

Having had the car in bits, in my garage, for most of the last week whislt I fitted a new air filter element (don't laugh, it's a bastard of a job!) and some spanking new ACT silicon air hoses , you'd think I know to leave things well alone. But no.

I'm now mithering about the throttle pedal, which has about 20 to 30mm of 'dead' travel, because of slack in the cable - clearly not good for heel-and-toeing.

I've read my SHPub bible, and used some common sense, to deduce that said adjustment is acheived via the engine end of the cable, but it looks anything but straight forward.

There appear to be two nuts on the adjuster (this looks slightly different to the bible diagram) on my car, and the one nearest the end of the cable is helpfully hidden from spanners reach by the throttle bracketry.

I don't just want to go in in a blur of spanners , ratchets and expletives, only to find I've successfully immobilised the car again, as I'm supposed to be off to the Goodwood sprint next weekend.

Helpful, practical advice (i.e. more than "get a fing clue") greatly appreciated.

[angusfaldo]

Digga

I was stranded when the throttle cable on mine snapped (fast lane -dual carriageway - rapid progress past trucker - brown pants) but had a spare one in the boot.

I didn't have any tools in the car at the time and so called the RAC. The RAC guy ended up dismantling the entire linkage at the engine end to remove the broken cable part. I didn't concentrate on him doing this work but he did not seem able to remove the cable with the linkage left connected.

Out of interest, how many return springs are there on the linkage assembly?

AF

[Digga]

I've got two coil (tensioner) springs on the cable linkage, and there's also a clock spring type thingy around the throttle axle, next to the throttle body.

I don't think my cable needs changing (at least I hope not), just tensioning.

[angusfaldo]

Digga said:

I've got two coil (tensioner) springs on the cable linkage, and there's also a clock spring type thingy around the throttle axle, next to the throttle body. I don't think my cable needs changing (at least I hope not), just tensioning.

Sounds like the same spring set-up then.

The RAC guy seemed to need to take of the linkage to undo all the bolts to adjust/remove the broken cable. I wonder if you'll have to do the same with yours.

Where's Steve H when you need him?

[2 sheds]

If you just undo the nut you can reach, the one at the back should be able to turn with your fingers, then you can in effect lengthen the outer cable/ take up the slack.
Tim

[Digga]

2 sheds said:

If you just undo the nut you can reach, the one at the back should be able to turn with your fingers, then you can in effect lengthen the outer cable/ take up the slack. Tim

Tim, thanks mate - it's starting to make sense now!

As you know, I had a bit of a 'mare with the air filter which didn't seem to have been fitted correctly by whichever drongo had last been at it.

I now have the definitive method for fitting your air hoses, on late Griff 500 with panel-type air filter:

A. To make sure air filter is fitted properly;

1.Undo the two-bolt bracket (at the hose end of the airbox) and the single-bolt bracket (at the opposite end).
2. Clean/inspect/replace filter element as necessary and replace in slot.
3. Site the airbox squarely over the filter panel and fit the two-bolt bracket snugly over the lip of the air box, tightening the bolts slightly to hold it in place.
4. Fit the single-bolt bracket and half-tighten.
5. Fully tighten the two-bolt bracket.
6. Fully tighten the single-bolt bracket.
Job's a good 'un

B. Fitting silicon air hoses.
1. Buy some bigger jubilee clips, as the silicon hose has a bigger O.D. than the standard stuff. You'll need something which spans the 80 to 90mm range, and most clips have the size range marked. Also buy some cable ties to replace the ones you'll need to cut away.
2. Check the length of the 90 degree (elbow) section and trim carefully with sharp knife to suit. (Ask and adult to help.)
3. Once the air filter is securely fitted, you can begin to fit the long, 'wavy shaped' section (i.e. the main airpipe) as follows.
4. Lube the inside of the pipe where it fits onto the airbox - vaseline or wd40 I guess - and shove this end into the nose of the car, and onto the airbox. Note: You won't need, and can barely fit, a jubilee clip on this end.
5. Fit the other end of the pipe to the airflow meter.
Voilla!

[starmist]

Air box silicone hose - you can and do need a jubilee clip on the fir filter, as the hose goes over the outside of the filter, and will therefore draw air through the gap, rather than through the filter. If you fit the hose onto the filter housing before installing the housing, and adjust the angle to suit before fully tightening the clip, it works - just make sure you have the clip worm drive at the bottom, facing backwards!

Easiest way to change the throttle cable, is to remove the 6 (or is it 7) big allen bolts that hold the plenum onto the trumpet base and fit the plenum off. The throttle linkage comes away with it. You've them got as much room as you need.

Just remember to put a smear of silicone around the base before you refit it.

[Digga]

starmist said:

Air box silicone hose - you can and do need a jubilee clip on the fir filter, as the hose goes over the outside of the filter, and will therefore draw air through the gap, rather than through the filter.

You might be right, although I ran the engine up, and checked all the joints, just to be safe, but obviously not a high revs though...

IMHO Looking at the slightly dubious design of teh airbox/filter element, I'd say you'd stand more chance of sucking air through the two longer sides of the airbox/filter interface than the hose on the airbox.

An extra clip would certainly do no harm though.

What worries me is how badly the box was installed on my car before I statred messing about with it....