Discussion
k do I fit these things?" soon you sure about that Simon?
When you tighten the black nob it makes the shock harder to push in that must be compression, red makes it harder to pull out..as you know i spent a bit of time taking these things aprt and reassembling with protech
I always wondered why you state to turn the red up full on track, the black is what makes it harder to compress :P
When you tighten the black nob it makes the shock harder to push in that must be compression, red makes it harder to pull out..as you know i spent a bit of time taking these things aprt and reassembling with protech
I always wondered why you state to turn the red up full on track, the black is what makes it harder to compress :P
Graham can sort this out for us...although i'm 99% sure i'm right.
Graham, if you slacken the nuts right off and drop the spring to towards the nobs, the bottom flange will slide out, this allows the springs to slide off the damper completely.
Turn both nobs anti clockwise fully...push the piston in, then pull back out, it should be easy...now turn the black nob all the way clockwise...is it harder to push in?
Graham, if you slacken the nuts right off and drop the spring to towards the nobs, the bottom flange will slide out, this allows the springs to slide off the damper completely.
Turn both nobs anti clockwise fully...push the piston in, then pull back out, it should be easy...now turn the black nob all the way clockwise...is it harder to push in?
TuxMan said:
I suppose it depends which way up you put the shock 
lol..but seriously..black is bound and red is rebound on mine..I was cranking up red on track knowing it was rebound,,but not really understanding why its rebound that gets cranked up and not the bound, i thought there was some science behind it..
I was driving round and started to get a noisy CV joint as Andy quickly diagnosed..i talked to my mechanic and he asked why i was cranking up the rebound, he said its no good for the drive train...luckily i only had 420lb/ft torque a spare CV joint and a very flat track.
Think we could have found the reason people are breaking gearboxes and CV joints?..driving with no rebound and lots of body roll...
...ahem...You should try cranking up the bound one time.. they really are quite heavy duty dampers...
Nb..i just checked my emails from protech.black is definitely to increase resistance for compression.. which confirms its not just my dampers taht are oddballs, they are meant to be that way..
Edited by R0162 on Friday 29th June 23:06
Hollowpockets said:
Kind of unrelated but on my downhill mountain bikes over the years black/blue is normally compression and red is always rebound regardless of manufacturer. That's on hydraulic forks and rear shocks.
Your bike is the same then ...black is definitely compression on these protech..red is definitely rebound, driving with red turned all the way up is not good
R0162 said:
Graham can sort this out for us...although i'm 99% sure i'm right.
Graham, if you slacken the nuts right off and drop the spring to towards the nobs, the bottom flange will slide out, this allows the springs to slide off the damper completely.
Turn both nobs anti clockwise fully...push the piston in, then pull back out, it should be easy...now turn the black nob all the way clockwise...is it harder to push in?
Hi Chris,Graham, if you slacken the nuts right off and drop the spring to towards the nobs, the bottom flange will slide out, this allows the springs to slide off the damper completely.
Turn both nobs anti clockwise fully...push the piston in, then pull back out, it should be easy...now turn the black nob all the way clockwise...is it harder to push in?
OK, I did the test.
Yes, black adjusts bump and red adjusts rebound.
The Protech website does actually say that now, and given the initial letters I checked a few other manufacturers to see if the colours are a standard and they all followed the same convention.
Looks like (B)lack or (B)lue is for (B)ump and (R)ed is for (R)ebound.
Tux has also done some investigating and I expect he'll be along shortly.
Ok it's looks like we are both right
Today I have swapped my original protechs shocks over for some new Protechs as these were a development set and have done 2 years on the car and yep you guessed it they are the opposite to the original ones I had fitted !!!!!!
Not sure why but they are going back to Protech to be checked and rebuilt so I guess I will find out then !!!
So in future guys just do the opposit to what I say and we will all be fine
Today I have swapped my original protechs shocks over for some new Protechs as these were a development set and have done 2 years on the car and yep you guessed it they are the opposite to the original ones I had fitted !!!!!!
Not sure why but they are going back to Protech to be checked and rebuilt so I guess I will find out then !!!
So in future guys just do the opposit to what I say and we will all be fine
TuxMan said:
Ok it's looks like we are both right
Today I have swapped my original protechs shocks over for some new Protechs as these were a development set and have done 2 years on the car and yep you guessed it they are the opposite to the original ones I had fitted !!!!!!
Not sure why but they are going back to Protech to be checked and rebuilt so I guess I will find out then !!!
So in future guys just do the opposit to what I say and we will all be fine
Lol so I guess mines are currently setup wrong if my guy followed the setup sheet ?Today I have swapped my original protechs shocks over for some new Protechs as these were a development set and have done 2 years on the car and yep you guessed it they are the opposite to the original ones I had fitted !!!!!!
Not sure why but they are going back to Protech to be checked and rebuilt so I guess I will find out then !!!
So in future guys just do the opposit to what I say and we will all be fine
Lucozade said:
Lol so I guess mines are currently setup wrong if my guy followed the setup sheet ?
just reverse it...road use
front.... black 5, red 8
back .... black 6, red 9
You should never mess with the red again after these settings unless you have a seriously bump free track..i prefer to have it a bit harder for road so i take the black up to 7 & 8.
For track use i take the black to 11 & 12, but thats because of the temps the rubber gets too hot and they slide if the setting is fully hard, if you get more grip then the camber will be utilized more so the settings can be harder.
This goes a long way to explaining my belief that the Protechs needed more rebound damping - I even discussed it with the Protech rep at Autosport! I ended up adding more rebound, and reducing the bump from Tux's initial recommendation (which was reversed). Happy days, another mystery solved.
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