Tight Nuts

[murphster]

Hi all, started my the replacement of my brake master and servo a few weekends back but having trouble getting the brake lines out of the old master cylinder. I have soaked them in WD40 Specialist stuff (and left for over a week) and even tried to buy replacement lines from TVR Power but they don’t have any. I have managed to free up the cylinder so I have got good access now but the nuts are really soft and I am just chewing them up with a spanner – what else should I do now?

Is there a tool which could help remove them without damaging them further?



Thanks!

[Simon says]

What you need is another pair of hands to hold the knackered master cyl still using adjustable pipe wrench or large water pump pliers then you can attack the stubborn nuts with this or similar you tend to get what you pay for with these spanners and these are considered pretty good an generally easily available, i can guarantee they will come undone so don't panic never had problems with these and the right tools, you should not need to resort to using a blow torch but a bit of heat may help (remembering over a certain temp brake fluid is very Flammable) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/... these are the bks but costly for a one off job http://www.wurth.co.uk/data/productdocuments/12112...

Edited by Simon says on Saturday 30th June 18:18

[haircutmike]

Mmm, they are nice!

[murphster]

Simon says said:

What you need is another pair of hands to hold the knackered master cyl still using adjustable pipe wrench or large water pump pliers then you can attack the stubborn nuts with this or similar you tend to get what you pay for with these spanners and these are considered pretty good an generally easily available, i can guarantee they will come undone so don't panic never had problems with these and the right tools, you should not need to resort to using a blow torch but a bit of heat may help (remembering over a certain temp brake fluid is very Flammable) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

Perfect - Thanks. Thought I was missing something!

[murphster]

Simon says said:

these are the bks but costly for a one off job http://www.wurth.co.uk/data/productdocuments/12112...

See what you mean £112.95 on Amazon

[Simon says]

murphster said:

Simon says said:

What you need is another pair of hands to hold the knackered master cyl still using adjustable pipe wrench or large water pump pliers then you can attack the stubborn nuts with this or similar you tend to get what you pay for with these spanners and these are considered pretty good an generally easily available, i can guarantee they will come undone so don't panic never had problems with these and the right tools, you should not need to resort to using a blow torch but a bit of heat may help (remembering over a certain temp brake fluid is very Flammable) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

Perfect - Thanks. Thought I was missing something!

No problem don't be tempted to use Mole Grips or similar as you will collapse the nut then you are knackered

[Alexdaredevilz]

Simon says said:

o problem don't be tempted to use Mole Grips or similar as you will collapse the nut then you are knackered

Did you call me?

[carsy]

If you are changing the servo as well you will have to take the pedal box out. I would disconnect the pipes where they go through the bulkhead leaving them attached to the master if you are having problems. Take the pedal box out and then remove the master cylinder complete with short pipes out throigh the footwell. You can work on the pipes on the bench in comfort.

[Simon says]

carsy said:

If you are changing the servo as well you will have to take the pedal box out. I would disconnect the pipes where they go through the bulkhead leaving them attached to the master if you are having problems. Take the pedal box out and then remove the master cylinder complete with short pipes out through the footwell. You can work on the pipes on the bench in comfort.

My mistake just noticed the M/C is still attached in the pic to the servo so looks like he's removing the lot got to be easier on the bench then surely? glad someone's on the ball Carsy that's smart phone's for you with their little displays either that or I need Spec Savers

Edited by Simon says on Saturday 30th June 23:22

[murphster]

carsy said:

If you are changing the servo as well you will have to take the pedal box out. I would disconnect the pipes where they go through the bulkhead leaving them attached to the master if you are having problems. Take the pedal box out and then remove the master cylinder complete with short pipes out throigh the footwell. You can work on the pipes on the bench in comfort.

Ok - I have the steering column out and the peddle box free. Thought I would have the same problem undoing them from the bulkhead but once it get hold of the correct spammers I'll undo the bulkhead ones first and get it all out of the car. Thanks for the advice.

[murphster]

Mixed results this morning. Got the spanners and was able to remove the brake lines from the bulkhead relatively easily so I have got the servo and master cylinder out of the car!



However I still cannot get them out of the master cylinder. I think this is because 1) I have slightly chewed up the nuts by not using the correct tool at the beginning 2) It looks like water has been getting in to the footwell for quite sometime so the pedal box, servo and nuts have all have quite a bit of surface rust (especially as it looks like the servo has been replaced before because the pedal box has been drilled). I am going to try and source some new brake lines from somewhere else because I don't want to put chewed up nuts back when I am replacing everything else - I have to wait for the servo to turn up anyway.

Once I have completed the job I will write up and share how I did it - hopefully it will help others thinking of doing the job themselves. ...off to start searching for replacement brake lines...

Are there any modern replacements for the copper pipes?

[Tyre Tread]

You can either buy some brake lines and fitting and a brake flaring tool and make your own. Not too difficult with a bit of practice or take yours along to a local motor factors and they should be able to make up replacements quite easily and cheaply.

[murphster]

Tyre Tread said:

You can either buy some brake lines and fitting and a brake flaring tool and make your own. Not too difficult with a bit of practice or take yours along to a local motor factors and they should be able to make up replacements quite easily and cheaply.

Thanks, Just looked one up close to my work (http://www.camberleyautofactors.com). I'll pop in tomorrow and see if they can help.

[Alexdaredevilz]

murphster said:

Thanks, Just looked one up close to my work (http://www.camberleyautofactors.com). I'll pop in tomorrow and see if they can help.

DCS in Leatherhead is nearer for you?

[carsy]

Just for your future reference, you can get the pedal box out without taking the steering column out. You just have to unscrew the clutch pedal off and release it from the clevis pin and that gives enough room to get the pedal out of the way and manouvre the box out.

Its a messy job with all that brake fluid but a job worth doing. A lot of cars will be coming of an age where it will need doing soon. At least you can now forget about it. If you do buy a flairing tool for your new pipes get a good one not a cheap handheld ebay special. They are definately a , you get what you pay for.

[murphster]

Alexdaredevilz said:

DCS in Leatherhead is nearer for you?

Camberley are closer for me but I'll try them too. Ta