Changing the cam in situ.

[B-Reight]

Have any of you chaps done it, how easy/difficult is it compared to just pulling the whole engine and box?

Current spec is Kent H214, ported heads on standard valves, shortened trumpets and real steel dual valve springs (after the originals decided to throw in the towel and snap!), 9.45:1 compression and running Megasquirt with coilpacks.

Hoping to get the car dynoed in the next week or so as a benchmark, im expecting maybe 230hp. I measured the current cam and it's not badly worn bar one exhaust lobe which is 14 thou down.

Got these to go in:
Kent H234 cam - 310 Duration .515"/.534" lift, i've completely ignored the advice to pick a cam and go one step lower, infact i might well have done the exact opposite



Reals steal 1.63/1.4" big valves.



Got myself a carbide 3 angle valve seat cutter from the states, it's a brilliant bit of kit, already done a spare set of heads and with a bit of practice i got very decent results.

Going to get the heads skimmed a touch to get up to 10:1 CR, i do have a spare 93.5mm block with omega forged flat top pistons running 12:1 compression with 33cc heads, but i think that might be a touch extreme.

[Campbell]

There is no such think as over kill...

Ive done a can with the engine in place, the cam will come out ok.
Thats quite a cam your putting in, when i removed the old cam from the SEAC engine it was a kent 234 and went for a kent 224 to bring back some low speed driveability with the old ingition system but im running a fully mapped system.
Sounds interesting in what you are going to do.

Cambelt

[adam quantrill]

Same here - you will have to remove the bonnet, and probably loosen the engine mount bolts and jack up the engine an inch or 2, if it won't come out over the nosecone. But much easier in situ.

[Alexdaredevilz]

That's bigger than mine!

I run 300/300 with 0.505/0.505

But on solid lifters so near enough same

I also ignored the advice about taking 1-2 steps lower and went up 1-2 steps

Do I regret it?








No!! I love it the way every thing has moved up the rpm makes it so much more tractable,

But I did have cold start issues on the 14cux

[rev-erend]

Like others have said - sounds like a very extreme cam .. especially as it's hydraulic..

My cam has a similar spec M256 and is mechanical.

My valves are inlet : 1.85" (Stainless steel) exhaust valve 1.55" (Stainless steel)

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 3rd July 11:37

[Alexdaredevilz]

Mines a 248 with 112

You dam Wedge boys are out doing me

BUT!

Here is my new cam ;-)

[rev-erend]

Amasing how two cams can look so different.

The last one has a very long duration around the fully open position.

Picture of my cam for comparison.

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 3rd July 11:54

[Alexdaredevilz]

That's because mine is a roller cam for my ford V8 conversion

[rev-erend]

Ah... yes that explains it.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

rev-erend said:

Amasing how two cams can look so different.

The last one has a very long duration around the fully open position.

Picture of my cam for comparison.

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 3rd July 11:54

Hi Rev, whats the coating on your Camshaft, looks like the one I had that was not harderned correctly.

[rev-erend]

No idea - think the cam is made by crane in the US and they have a good reputation.

Looks OK after the run in (20 mins) as I just had it stripped down.