Re painting inner wheel arches on Tamora

[sidpinup]

I did a search but didn't get any results so sorry if this has been covered.

The paint on my inner arches has been flaking away for some time so I would like to re do them. It looks like they didn't get prepped properly at the factory as its just come away from the GRP. I think this is common.

Has anyone re done theirs and what was the process and paint used. Thanks.

[piscola90]

Someone did post recently - They painted the cills black too.

Any normal paint will only flake and chip again, so this is really a short term fix.

You can do this job at home no problem, but you will need to use stone chip/guard paint. This is very thick when applied (thats why it looks bobbeley) from a gun, and it retains elasticity - so stone 'bounce' off, and dont chip.

You can then paint over this product (in the case of the cills) - you dont need to paint the arches.

You need a small compressor, stone chip gun (the ones that screw directly onto the canister of paint)... and of course the stone guard paint.

The thicker the better. Make sure you prep the areas with scraping, sanding, and then wipe down with thinners.

[sidpinup]

Thanks, I thought stone chip would be the way to go and I have the spay kit to do it. Looks like proper prep is essential so the paint has something to key into. A nice job for this weekend methinks.

[duff-man]

Have a look a this:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=845...

[VARLEYHYD]

Sag bible info

The original paint system is not so good, it's white spirit based, so if you try to clean off any tar on the sills the whole lot will rub off. In the wheel arches the finish is similar hand bush painted, primed and black sprayed; It is likely that the paint falls off in big sheets. To make it smooth and easy to clean: Remove all access covers. Clean entire area of loose paint and clean using white spirit; carefully mask body paintwork, using tetroseal or similar black under body seal apply very light coats to build thickness until smooth finish( may take a few days to get it harden off) then with a satin/gloss black paint over. This gives a great finish, but the result is in the preparation. It is really good on the rear diffuser/apron; it stops stones getting stuck in the fibreglass and you can clean it with a sponge easily. The rear arch above the exhaust looks great too without stone chips!

Polishing the Black Gel Coat where possible looks good too.

Use coach lining tape on the sills













G

edit for coach tape to sill-

Edited by VARLEYHYD on Thursday 5th July 17:03

[mycroft]

Graham , Would you like to borrow my car for a few weeks

[sidpinup]

I always get upset when I see pictures of your cars underparts! Spotless! Great advice I will get right onto it....unless its sunny then I will be driving!

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Glad you asked Sid - got the same issue going on with my Tam. Now I know what to do, but I'm sure there's a perfectly good finish that's somewhere in-between crap factory, and Graham's concours effort.....

[Mr M]

Done the rear on mine with Carplan Tetroseal. Works fine.

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Was that brushed on, or sprayed?

[Mr M]

Geoff - assuming you're referencing my post ; brushed on. Really smooth mat finish to it. Could probably have done with another coat but I'll get around to that when the sun comes out again. It's good stuff.

[Choo]

This is one of my next jobs too, a really useful thread too.

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Thanks Mr M, yes, I was