Sell, fix or upgrade?
Discussion
Hi all
I have a 200 TDI 90 as an off road toy. I've recently been thinking its time to move it on and was planning to sell it this winter, when the snow starts.
Last time I took it off roading, I dunked it in a bit of water and discovered I'd not sealed the airbox properly after fixing my starter. This meant the air filter got a thorough soaking. I thought I'd gotten away with it since I switched off immediately and blew all the water from the intercooler etc, along with draining the fuel filter. It's been slow starting from cold since.
However, some 500 ish miles later and yesterday I was out at a local building yard, engine hot, and it wouldn't start, just turns over, very slowly. AA man attended and did the following:
I have a 200 TDI 90 as an off road toy. I've recently been thinking its time to move it on and was planning to sell it this winter, when the snow starts.
Last time I took it off roading, I dunked it in a bit of water and discovered I'd not sealed the airbox properly after fixing my starter. This meant the air filter got a thorough soaking. I thought I'd gotten away with it since I switched off immediately and blew all the water from the intercooler etc, along with draining the fuel filter. It's been slow starting from cold since.
However, some 500 ish miles later and yesterday I was out at a local building yard, engine hot, and it wouldn't start, just turns over, very slowly. AA man attended and did the following:
- check for fuel on front injector - dribble
- check 2nd injector - better
- ruled out fuel issue
- tried easy start in air line - nothing
- removed crank breather and said excess 'something' coming out of here
- diagnosed compression issue and advices compression test
- tear it apart, fix what is broken and reassemble
- straight swap for another defender 200 engine
- swap it out for a 300 engine
- sell it as it stands
Hmmm.... There's not a lot to go wrong on a TDi but from your description it doesn't sound good. However, there are a few things you can check:
M
- Battery: Check the earth connection. This can make the temp gauge show hot and make the engine slow to crank. As a test, just run a jump lead from the -ve to the starter mounting bolt.
- Induction system: Clea out the intercooler, check hoses, turbo, etc...
M
I would advise getting yourself over to LR4x4 here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=9
The guys are very helpful and an order of magnitude less agressive than some of the 'tards on here
The technical archive has threads for everythin you could possibly need to do - and some more.
Good luck
The guys are very helpful and an order of magnitude less agressive than some of the 'tards on here
The technical archive has threads for everythin you could possibly need to do - and some more.
Good luck
I would have a go at re building yourself.. I did this on a 200TDi engine with no prior experience last year. I did it with the engine in situ.. I think from memory the only specialist tools I needed were a piston ring compressor and a cylinder bore honer and both of them were relatively inexpensive. All of the replacement parts I bought from Turner engineering and were easy enough to source.
When I took the head to be skimmed at a local renound engine builder's he told to me not worry and just have a go at it and he was right it wasnt rocket science!
When I took the head to be skimmed at a local renound engine builder's he told to me not worry and just have a go at it and he was right it wasnt rocket science!
When it starts, does it run in any way different to before you tried to drown it?
Have you tried with a fully charged battery? (as in charged off the vehicle with a battery charger)
Have you drowned the starter motor or is it full of crap?
Is the alternator charging properly?
As already suggested, try a jump lead from battery earth to engine block, corroded earth leads are a common problem.
Have you tried with a fully charged battery? (as in charged off the vehicle with a battery charger)
Have you drowned the starter motor or is it full of crap?
Is the alternator charging properly?
As already suggested, try a jump lead from battery earth to engine block, corroded earth leads are a common problem.
paintman said:
When it starts, does it run in any way different to before you tried to drown it?
Have you tried with a fully charged battery? (as in charged off the vehicle with a battery charger)
Have you drowned the starter motor or is it full of crap?
Is the alternator charging properly?
As already suggested, try a jump lead from battery earth to engine block, corroded earth leads are a common problem.
Hi. In terms of running any different, I didn't think so, apart from it being slow to start. Both battery and starter were brand new before the outing where it got dunked, ans the engine turns ok, but just struggles to fire.Have you tried with a fully charged battery? (as in charged off the vehicle with a battery charger)
Have you drowned the starter motor or is it full of crap?
Is the alternator charging properly?
As already suggested, try a jump lead from battery earth to engine block, corroded earth leads are a common problem.
The truck has modified seats, so battery access is hard. However I've charged it on the Anderson plug at the front all day today, not tried to fire it yet.
It's hard to say if its down on power, being my spare car I drive it so little its always slow in my mind. But it certainly isn't noticeably slower than pre dunking!
Will try the jump lead trick to see if that's it. Thanks both for the idea.
If anyone is E. Mids base and wants a cuppa and a chat with a like minded landy owner, I'd appreciate the diag help/ advice. I have choccy biscuits waiting.
To those who suggested lr4x4 forum, I'm a member already, will get a post up with general diagnostics once I've tried the above suggestions
Bit of an update here. Not had chance to so anything yet, but I did jump in to roll it into the garage, but thought I'd try it first.
It ticked over at the same speed, then fired after half a dozen turns or so! So, I'm assuming this rules out serious internal damage as it fires when cold but wouldn't when hot? I also tried to bleed the fuel filter buy got nothing from the bottom.
So, I'm wondering if the filter is clogged? I have one in the garage to spin on, so will try this. If it fails, I will have a go at the earth trick.
Am I right to rule out bent rods etc since its starting again and driving fine?
It ticked over at the same speed, then fired after half a dozen turns or so! So, I'm assuming this rules out serious internal damage as it fires when cold but wouldn't when hot? I also tried to bleed the fuel filter buy got nothing from the bottom.
So, I'm wondering if the filter is clogged? I have one in the garage to spin on, so will try this. If it fails, I will have a go at the earth trick.
Am I right to rule out bent rods etc since its starting again and driving fine?
Can't rule out the internals but...
It sounds as though the engine isn't cranking fast enough for it to fire. Coupled together with your "overheating", I'm thinking it is more of an earthing issue.
Quick explanation:
The -ve on the battery is connected to the transfer casing. For everything to work properly, it is assumed that you have a decent connection, through the various gearbox casings, engine block, etc... This is fine straight out of the factory but after time, things start to corrode, clutches get changed, oils get smeared on surfaces, etc, etc... and you loose this continuity.
The other tell-tale sign is the engine "overheating"... Essentially, your temperature sender is feeding you duff information due to the poor earth!
(It took me 1x thermostat, 2x head gaskets, 2x batteries & a new radiator before I worked this one out and cured my "overheating" & starting problem!!!)
The jump lead trick is a quick way of testing before you start spending too much £££ fixing a problem that isn't there!!
M
It sounds as though the engine isn't cranking fast enough for it to fire. Coupled together with your "overheating", I'm thinking it is more of an earthing issue.
Quick explanation:
The -ve on the battery is connected to the transfer casing. For everything to work properly, it is assumed that you have a decent connection, through the various gearbox casings, engine block, etc... This is fine straight out of the factory but after time, things start to corrode, clutches get changed, oils get smeared on surfaces, etc, etc... and you loose this continuity.
The other tell-tale sign is the engine "overheating"... Essentially, your temperature sender is feeding you duff information due to the poor earth!
(It took me 1x thermostat, 2x head gaskets, 2x batteries & a new radiator before I worked this one out and cured my "overheating" & starting problem!!!)
The jump lead trick is a quick way of testing before you start spending too much £££ fixing a problem that isn't there!!
M
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